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Everything posted by SmartsyArtsy

  1. I want to print a logo and am concerned about getting the best black from the decal. I have seen many results that show as iron color. Is it possible to get a black image?
  2. I would try any of the methods just so the fit works then use a drop of glaze to adhere in final firing.
  3. I agree, that decals should be applied then fired to ^04. their color will most likely burn out in cone 6.
  4. Lessons learned! I had forgotten what the thermocouple first looked like; now I know!
  5. The firing problem was a thermocouple that I needed to replace. For the benefit for anyone else here who has never replaced one, it was a bit more confusing. After the first error msg with dark clay, "Error 1": low voltage or bad elements, I fired a white stoneware bisque load and had no problems. Then I fired a white stoneware light glaze load and had no problems. The third firing after the "Error 1" was another large dark clay planter. That resulted in "FAIL" and another bloated pot. When I went to purchase a new thermocouple, I asked about the bloating dark clay. I was told to fire only
  6. The Ceramic Spectrum is my most "gone to" book in the library.
  7. In the PNW, I use and really like Newcomb ^6 for the same kind of work. I am not sure if you can get something similar.
  8. This happens to me with tin oxide, so after measuring out, I soak the tin in warm water for a couple days while the rest of the recipe is slaking. Then I get as much through the sieve as possible. My recipe seems good, so I assume I have extracted enough.
  9. I only hand build now but lately I have been keeping an eye out for an affordable wheel. Just got an extruder but haven't hung it yet. I look forward to experimenting with extruded forms.
  10. I created my own Hypercard system (like HyperGlaze) years ago and used that. Now I use a FileMaker system that I wrote. It is a relational data base of recipes, batches, materials, inventory, expenditures, sales. I can search by recipe, dates, materials, and a myriad of other fields. I photograph my test tiles and imbed the pics in the recipe file. If I want to know what recipes I have mixed in the past 2 years that use Wollastonite, I can. My inventory info extracts data from the expenditure file and depletes amounts according to the recipe batches. There are low limits on materials so a
  11. I have one of those too! Very handy. I take the entire cabinet with me when I teach offsite.
  12. Well, I must say that HD and the fabric store had the most unhelpful and unimaginable employees!!! UGH! In HD I looked at Formica (possible at some other time), coated MDF, which I think you use with the linseed oil, Neil ($9 a sheet; color is the issue with me), sheet vinyl (a very possible for me @ $12.50 for a 3x7 sheet). The coated MDF is only available in their larger store so I will be up that way in a week. I was disappointed at the vinyl options in the fabric store. It appeared all the marine vinyl was coated with poly, and the rest seemed too thin. I am not, though, satisfie
  13. Just found this very good discussion http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/412-alternatives-to-canvas-work-surfaces/?hl=covering&do=findComment&comment=2407 I am off to look at several options at HD and a local industrial fabric shop. Lots of good possibilities in the above linked to thread. I have several doors as table tops and am not sure how I feel about working on wood because of the dark color. I have also worked on Formica and liked that. Just need to keep the dust down as well as I can
  14. I am moving away from canvas an choosing textured plastic or vinyl
  15. I wondered about the clay body/glaze fit, but doesn't that also include the firing error as a factor? Unfortunately, (but really fortunately) there was only one other piece and a few test tiles in there beside the planter. The other piece was fine (except for where the bloated planter kissed it) the test tiles even looked ok. They were just a test for a pattern design of two reliable glazes in my repertoire. So, regardless of the lower temp reached and the free fall cooling, all else was OK. I can and will test fire another piece with the same clay/glaze. The Error says that the heat w
  16. Has anyone ever dipped their brushes In the paint they sell to rubber-ize tool handles? If not, I will experiment and report back.
  17. After 175 ^04 and ^6 firings I had my first incomplete firing. According to the controller info, this small SPS Crucible kiln either had a low voltage issue or problem with the elements. It got to 2166 F before the error aborted the firing. I attempted to do a full on test to examine the elements but will have to come back later when it is dark so I can see the elements more easily. The night after the firing (last night) we had a wide area blackout from some unknown (to me) problems. So, I am wondering if the kiln issue was related to an impending obvious voltage problem. Much to chec
  18. Also consider wall paper for backdrops. If you use one that is sturdy enough, it will roll up nicely for transport-- no fabric wrinkles! I use grasscloth and it is the perfect "feel" for my botanical theme. It covers the pegboard that my tiles hang on.
  19. I use Hardiboard. Great drying platform that can be easily put aside and out of the way when not in use. I lay the board on a couple of 2x4s. It is wet here in the PNW but this does the job.
  20. Any reason you cannot preheat in your oven? I have done that when my kiln is firing other work. I wrote that before I saw your finished product. Very beautiful piece!
  21. From the album: Tiles

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