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Maj0rMalfunct10n

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About Maj0rMalfunct10n

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    Calgary, Albert

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  1. Hi, I tried to search wheel head slipping before I posted this question, but I didn't see much. I have an older Shimpo 21, and it seems to me that the wheel head is not only turning slower than it used to, but when centering larger mounds of clay (say 6-8lbs) the wheel head will slow down with centering pressure. Ay thoughts what might need to be repaired (bearing?). Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Mal
  2. Thanks Bill, maybe I'll need to reconsider my firing process. I appreciate the reply.
  3. @Min, I'm a bit lazy, and I very much dislike the glazing process, so dip everything. In that I try to maintain a cream like consistency with my glazes and only dip once for each colour. I do layer, but rarely do I layer beyond two colours, so arguably in most instances the glazes isn't too think. I am very interested in your suggestion on firing down but I am unsure how I could do that with the kiln sitter triggered. Thanks very much. ~Mal
  4. Wow! Thanks for all this information. The type of clay I use typically is Plainsmen M340, which I bisque at a slow rate. On my dial, I move stages each hour (cone 04). Dial settings 0-1 (-one hour), 1-2 (one hour), 2-3 |(one hour), 3-3.5 (one hour), 3.5-4 (one hour), 4-4.5 (one hour, close lid), 4.5-5 (one hour, put two sight plugs in), 5-5.5 (one hour), 5.5 -max temp (one hour), kiln sitter usually trips the max temp setting after 12-15 mins. Total bisque time ~9 hours. I am unable to say exactly what temp each stage is. I have used a whiteness cone in the past but fell away from t
  5. Hello, I am hoping to leverage some good experience from potters with more know how than I. I have a Paragon electric kiln, and use commercial glazes (Duncan, Amelco, Coyote, and Spectrum. I fire to cone 6. From time to time, and with what seems like without reason I get bubbles and or pimples in the glaze. I like to think I’m fairly careful not to let foreign material infect the glaze. Any thoughts on what cause these issues? Overfire maybe? thanks in advance ~Mal
  6. Hi all, I live in Calgary, Alberta Canada. I have historically been a spring/summer/fall potter but I have been hand building this winter in my basement. I have a medium sized paragon electric kiln in my un-heated garage. I was thinking I might fire it up the coming Friday, with the weather expected to be -10C. Is this safe from a cracking perspective. The work is in my basement and not cold, but would be transferred to a cold kiln. I use a kiln sitter. I could lengthen the warming stage, but I am more concerned with the cool down (am I being rational)? thanks for the input
  7. Hi, I have a medium sized Paragon kiln in my studio, and from time to time use a smaller retrofit raku kiln in the yard. I have only one kiln stand, and in the past have lifted the Paragon kiln to access the stand for raku fun. I look at the costs for kiln stands and find it unreasonable. Is there a cheap stand that someone can recommend? Thanks very much Mal
  8. I am kind of embarrassed, I took Min's advise and took a critical look at the problem before I put the work back in and simply re-fired. The issue was that I wasn't paying attention and put a 06 cone in the sitter (which tripped the sitter at a temperature that was too low for the glaze to mature) and a large cone 6 in my peep-hole stand. Needless to say that I have matching cone 6 cones now and am re-firing the kiln. Thanks for the support. This is a great community. Mal
  9. Hi, I am looking for some advise if possible. I fired my kiln last night but the kiln didn't reach full temperature. I looked at the cone I have in my cone stand and it is not melted. The cone in the sitter either melted or fell off and the kiln shut off. Can I re-fire? As I have not unloaded it, can I just turn it on? Thanks Mal
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