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  1. I saw an old post of yours, searching for recommendations about Rhode or Nabertherm kiln. Which one did you purchase after all?  And what is your experience with the chosen one?

    I'm asking as I'm trying to decide myself. I have a 20 years old Rhode (working great to 1250 C) but need a new one (for cone 10).




    1. Min


      Hi Mirjam, I would suggest messaging @agafdesign with your questions. They haven't been on the forum for a couple years so likely won't see your post here. Just click on the envelope icon at the top of the screen and fill in the message box that pops up. They will get an email letting them know about the message.

  2. Thank you so much. It took years to achieve that idea but I thought the project deserved it
  3. Thanks for the clarity but I'm sunk on 'heavy karo syrup' - another U.S. thing I think!
  4. Thanks Callie. It 's not functional and it has taken me about a month to make it so looking for solutions, even if they are not perfect ... even if it took me a week to grind down bisque fired clay it would be worth it!! So you are saying I make paper clay from the raw clay, push it into the crack (I have heard it is worth wetting the crack first?), let it dry fully and then bisque fire the entire piece again ....
  5. Tried that but only your comment came up! However if SPOOZE is a product I probably won't be able to get it. I'm located in Poland and all these gizmos that seem to be available in the States aren't here so I need a very 'home made' solution
  6. I have a bisque fired ceramic with a large crack in it and have heard many times that 'Paper Clay' is the answer - slip/clay + magic water + toilet paper (c. 30%). I've looked all over but can't seem to find the answer to what state the clay should be in when making the paper clay for a bisque fired piece. One article suggested I needed to bisque fire a piece of the same clay, then grind it down into a powder and then mix/blend it with the paper and magic water. But most articles don't mention the bisque firing part. Do I need to bisque fire a lump of clay or is it OK to make up the paper clay with raw slip/clay and then bisque fire again the whole piece? Many thanks for whoever can give me some clarity on this!
  7. Thanks for all the feedback so far. Many have said I should expect slight differences in temperature around the kiln but these seem to be very visible - more so than on other kilns that I have used. I have one glaze which is satin but comes out very glossy if it is in the middle of the kiln while it works perfectly at the top and bottom. The kiln seems to be well insulated. It is in a fairly small room but even on a firing up to 1250C the room temperature does not go above 30C. Its just that now with the retailer saying Rhode are not very good at stoneware glaze firing this is reinforcing my doubts and with a second controller acting up I'm wondering whether to jump ship on Rhode but not leap from the frying pan into the fire!.
  8. Thanks Preston - on the last line I said "I am based in Poland" - is that what you mean. That's Poland the country in Europe, not Poland WI!!!
  9. I'm wondering if anyone else has had good or bad experiences with Rohde or Nabertherm? I purchased a brand new Rohde (TE110MC+) kiln 18 months ago. On day one it would not go above 50C without konking out! The retailer insisted it was something I was doing wrong but eventually came out (after I called Rohde) and admitted the controller was faulty. He replaced it but I saw his older TC304 controller which was obviously a better quality build so I suspect Rohde has been doing some cost cutting recently at the expense of quality. I've also had issues of varying temperatures in the kiln (at least that is how it looks because the same pieces from the same clay with the same glaze look slightly different depending where they sit during the glaze fire. Very recently the controller threw an 'over heating' error on a 1235C porcelain glaze firing. The retailer insisted it was due to my electricity supply and Rohde customer service has just been running me round in circles sometimes saying it is the controller, sometimes insisting I contact the retailer and sometimes just avoiding my calls and ignoring my emails (even though the confirm receiving them!). I think the retailer wants me off his back so he has offered to buy back the kiln but refuses to replace it. He's also started saying things like "this type of kiln is not very good at firing over 1,100C". At the same time I know an increasing number of people locally who are singing the praises of Nabertherm. Does anyone else have any experiences, good or bad, with these two brands? Thanks. BTW - I know there are other brands out there but I am based in Poland and Nabertherm or Rohde are the easiest makes to get hold of.
  10. I'm going to put one or two of my pieces into mass production. Incidently this was very useful: http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/making-ceramic-molds/going-industrial-one-potter-shares-his-experience-with-the-mass-production-of-his-pottery/ But obviously in talking to the manufacturers they all want to see an image and specs of the product. To make sure the factory does not say 'no' and then produce my design themselves I need to write up some sort of nondisclosure agreement and I was wondering if anyone here had ever done this? Thanks
  11. Thank you all for replying. The vinegar solution seems popular but how much vinegar to clay? I'm assuming this is clear vinegar - is that right? The pieces I'm mainly having an issue with are made like this: - the clay is rolled out and then cut into shapes - the shapes are then joined together to make a bowl Because the shapes are fairly random the joins can be at very different angles. Sometimes I do think I push one join that is already connected when I am joining another piece and this stress may be causing the issue. If anyone can post their "vinegar recipe" I'll give it a try!
  12. Thanks all. When fully loaded on a bisque fire it took 18 hours to go from 960 degrees to 100 degrees C and so that seems more normal. The floating lid still gets me though!
  13. I know the correct answer is "let the piece dry slowly" ( ) which I do but once in a blue moon I get a hairline crack. I've seen plenty of discussions here and on the web about what to do after bisque firing but none on what to do before bisque firing. Is it really just a case of pushing some wet slip into the crack with a fine brush? I'm just concerned that will make the surrounding clay wet and it will then crack leading me into a never ending circle of crack repairing. Any top tips? Thanks.
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