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S. Dean

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  • Location
    Raleigh, NC USA
  • Interests
    Cooking, Travel, High Performance Driving

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  1. For owners of the old CI HP MP and Jr wheels with bat pins spaced 9 inches apart, here's a PSA that StudioPro Bats has an adapter that will let you use bats with standard 10 inch spacing. While this adapter isn't yet advertised on their website, it is similar to the ones shown here https://studioprobats.com/products/small-bat-adapters. If you are interested in ordering the adapter for these CI wheels, you can get in touch with them through the contact section on the site. BTW, I'm not affiliated with StudioPro Bats, just an owner of an old CI wheel that's happy to have a solution for using bats with std spacing (that doesn't require me to drill new holes in my wheel head). -SD
  2. TA Metalworks in Canada manufactures a quality extruder for a good price. It looks very similar to the Bailey 4" extruder. I've sent you a PM with additional information and links. Regarding slab rollers, you may want to search the forums as there are several posts on building tables for the Bailey slab roller. Bailey will send designs upon request - you will need to specify DRD or DRDII because they have different builds. The designs contain enough information to build a table, but they are not full construction drawings so you will need to determine a lot of dimensions yourself. Please note that the DRDII slab roller requires different table heights on the feed side and the output side of the machine, and there are some pretty tight spacing tolerances between the table tops and the rollers. In my opinion, this is not a project for a novice wood worker. I ordered a 24 inch DRDII (machine only) and had 2 tables built for it (one small one for the machine itself, and a larger work table to receive the slabs). I chose this approach for added functionality/flexibility, because I wanted to be able to roll the machine into a corner when not needed while having a general work table in the studio. This was more expensive than ordering the table from Bailey. Factoring in cost and time, I'm not sure you end up saving much by building your own. table (even a simpler one), especially with the recent spike in lumber prices.
  3. A slab roller sounds like overkill at this point. A rolling pin with slab sticks should do the trick. Get a couple of different thicknesses of the sticks so she can make thinner or thicker slabs depending on need.
  4. Regarding the e28t, here's a great explanation that Neil provided in another post about why many manufacturer's 10 cubic foot kilns are rated to Cone 8: Lots of people fire to cone 6 in cone 8 kilns. They work fine, however like you said, the elements won't last as long since you're closer to maxing them out with every firing. The L&L E28T-3 and kilns of other brands all fall into this same situation. The reason these 10 cubic foot kilns don't go to cone 10 is because they want to make them so they are plug and play, rather than being hard wired. That means a max of 48 amps kiln draw. At 48 amps on 240 volt single phase power, they can only generate enough heat to get a kiln of that size to cone 8. At 208 volt single phase they only get to cone 5. However on 3 phase power either voltage can get to cone 10. All brands make 10 cubic foot models that will go to cone 10 on single phase power, so you're not out of luck if you need a kiln of that size. However they have to be hard wired and they need an 80 amp breaker, which may or may not be an issue, depending on what your breaker box can handle. If you're set on Skutt look at the PK models. I've got the e28s and love the wide low design (easier to load/less bending over, wider diameter is more flexible ). However, there are times that I would like more height. The e28M was not offered when I purchased my kiln, but that is what I'd go for now - it seems to hit the sweet spot of width, height and power. -SD
  5. Just curious, what do you not like about the Skutt?
  6. +1 for what Min said. Get a p100 respirator. It is also important that the mask fits well so that you get a good seal. A bad seal means reduced filtration effectiveness as unfiltered air and particles are getting around the mask and into your lungs. So, if you have a small face structure and are wearing a mask that is too big, you will not get a seal. 3M offers many of their respirators in small, med and large sizes - so buy the correct size (this will get you a better chance of getting a good seal, but it's not a guarantee as some face shapes and some mask shapes just don't fit together to get a good seal). Also, if you have facial hair, you will not get a good seal. Here's some more info from OSHA about fit. https://www.osha.gov/video/respiratory_protection/fittesting_transcript.html. Hospitals and other companies have equipment to conduct fit testing on each employee. Unfortunately, as studio potters we don't have access to that kind of equipment and testing, so do what you can to get a mask that fits your face. It might mean trying different models and manufacturers. Lastly, getting a p100 right now may be hard with COVID-19. Many places seem to be sold out or holding stock for healthcare. If a website says sold out, pick up the phone and see if you can get through that way. Good luck. -SD
  7. I'd be interested in the splash pan if still available. Sent you a pm. Thanks.
  8. If you want the TS-Skutt, try calling Clay-King. When I was looking for wheels a few years back, the sales person mentioned that they try to have wheels in stock and ship from their facility in Greenville, SC. A friend of mine in Raleigh NC bought a TS-Skutt wheel (Stephen Hill model) from them and it arrived in less than a week. -SD
  9. I own the side load version which I think is a better configuration than the end load version. These are not near as sturdy or as large as a Brent or Bailey ware rack, but it works fine in my space. https://www.webstaurantstore.com/regency-20-pan-side-load-bun-sheet-pan-rack-unassembled/109APR1826L.html -SD
  10. Unfortunately Speedball did not purchase the HP/MP/Jr wheels from CI, so they don't support these wheels. I would think taking them to an electric motor repair shop would be your best bet. It looks like your wheels are the injection molded table design. This design was introduced in 1988 or 89, so your wheels likely date from 1990's thru early 2000's. -SD
  11. On my table, the slab roller sits in a notch in the frame rail. This frame rail is not flat. The output side (left side of the notch in this photo) is higher than the height on the input side (right side of the notch). Per Bailey's recommendation, I used 3/4" ply wood mounted on top of the frame rail (though it looks thicker in this photo because of the trim pieces used to finish the edges). The 3/4 in top combined with the notch depth of 1 3/4" on the output side and 1" on the input side will provide the proper heights for the bi-level table. Hope this makes sense. -Stephen
  12. Congrats on your purchase. My table was constructed per these plans.. The feed counter and the output counter are two separate pieces of plywood. The feed side counter is 1 inch lower than the output side. I'll post a photo of the frame construction so you can how the slab roller and the counter tops are mounted. =Stephen
  13. Nice find! The kiln appears to be in great shape and it looks like it will give you service for a long time. The only thing to be aware of is that Duncan kilns are no longer made. Here's some information Neil Estrick provided in another post about repairing Duncan kilns. This might be helpful to keep in mind when you eventually need elements or parts. Duncan kilns are no longer made. Paragon serviced them for a long time, but not any more. They may or may not have some parts still laying around. So if you get either of those kilns, you'll have to source parts from various places. The switches are pretty much standard items you can get on the internet. You may be able to use bricks from another brand, if you can figure out which brand has grooves that are similar enough. Euclids can probably make elements for you. Basically what I'm saying is that it's not going to be as easy as getting a kiln made by a company that is still in business. Another downside of Duncan kilns is that many of the models use twice as many elements as other kilns. Instead of 6 elements that wrap twice, they use twelve elements that wrap once. So it costs more to replace the elements and it's more work.
  14. Bailey has generic instructions for building your own table that they will send you. Dimensions are important - have the slab roller unit on hand before you build a table so you can make sure everything fits: The table top on the feed side of the slab roller is 1 inch lower than the table top on the output side (output side is the same height as the top of the bottom roller) The distance between the bottom of the machine housing and the table top is not the same for DRD's and DRDII's - be sure to get instructions specific to the model you buy. Rather than 1 table, I had two tables built with 3/4 inch plywood tops. This allows me to roll the machine out of the way when not in use and also have a larger stand alone work table. Both tables are on 4 locking casters. The larger work table is ~5/8 inch shorter which allows the tables to be level with a piece of sheetrock (see photo). The slight drop doesn't make any difference if I don't use the sheetrock for bigger slabs. This design was a better working option for my studio. It was not cheaper or faster than buying the Bailey table. -Stephen
  15. Has anyone had any luck finding a splash pan for the Creative Industries MP?  

    1. JohnnyK


      Go to my profile, click on albums and go through to the pix I have of a splash pan made from the bottom of a plastic trash barrel that will work for you. Contact me if you need further info by clicking on the message icon in the header.


    2. S. Dean

      S. Dean

      Hi  Griceart.  No luck here.  When Speedball bought CI they didn't pick up the HP/MP/Jr wheels, so there is no manufacturer support.  Two part epoxy putty has kept my splash pan going.  For a replacement - JohnnyK's solution is the best approach I've seen.  (Thanks Johnny!)

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