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S. Dean

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    Raleigh, NC USA
  • Interests
    Cooking, Travel, High Performance Driving

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  1. For owners of the old CI HP MP and Jr wheels with bat pins spaced 9 inches apart, here's a PSA that StudioPro Bats has an adapter that will let you use bats with standard 10 inch spacing. While this adapter isn't yet advertised on their website, it is similar to the ones shown here https://studioprobats.com/products/small-bat-adapters. If you are interested in ordering the adapter for these CI wheels, you can get in touch with them through the contact section on the site. BTW, I'm not affiliated with StudioPro Bats, just an owner of an old CI wheel that's happy to have a solution for using bats with std spacing (that doesn't require me to drill new holes in my wheel head). -SD
  2. TA Metalworks in Canada manufactures a quality extruder for a good price. It looks very similar to the Bailey 4" extruder. I've sent you a PM with additional information and links. Regarding slab rollers, you may want to search the forums as there are several posts on building tables for the Bailey slab roller. Bailey will send designs upon request - you will need to specify DRD or DRDII because they have different builds. The designs contain enough information to build a table, but they are not full construction drawings so you will need to determine a lot of dimensions yourself. Please note that the DRDII slab roller requires different table heights on the feed side and the output side of the machine, and there are some pretty tight spacing tolerances between the table tops and the rollers. In my opinion, this is not a project for a novice wood worker. I ordered a 24 inch DRDII (machine only) and had 2 tables built for it (one small one for the machine itself, and a larger work table to receive the slabs). I chose this approach for added functionality/flexibility, because I wanted to be able to roll the machine into a corner when not needed while having a general work table in the studio. This was more expensive than ordering the table from Bailey. Factoring in cost and time, I'm not sure you end up saving much by building your own. table (even a simpler one), especially with the recent spike in lumber prices.
  3. A slab roller sounds like overkill at this point. A rolling pin with slab sticks should do the trick. Get a couple of different thicknesses of the sticks so she can make thinner or thicker slabs depending on need.
  4. Regarding the e28t, here's a great explanation that Neil provided in another post about why many manufacturer's 10 cubic foot kilns are rated to Cone 8: Lots of people fire to cone 6 in cone 8 kilns. They work fine, however like you said, the elements won't last as long since you're closer to maxing them out with every firing. The L&L E28T-3 and kilns of other brands all fall into this same situation. The reason these 10 cubic foot kilns don't go to cone 10 is because they want to make them so they are plug and play, rather than being hard wired. That means a max of 48 amps kiln draw. At 48 amps on 240 volt single phase power, they can only generate enough heat to get a kiln of that size to cone 8. At 208 volt single phase they only get to cone 5. However on 3 phase power either voltage can get to cone 10. All brands make 10 cubic foot models that will go to cone 10 on single phase power, so you're not out of luck if you need a kiln of that size. However they have to be hard wired and they need an 80 amp breaker, which may or may not be an issue, depending on what your breaker box can handle. If you're set on Skutt look at the PK models. I've got the e28s and love the wide low design (easier to load/less bending over, wider diameter is more flexible ). However, there are times that I would like more height. The e28M was not offered when I purchased my kiln, but that is what I'd go for now - it seems to hit the sweet spot of width, height and power. -SD
  5. Just curious, what do you not like about the Skutt?
  6. +1 for what Min said. Get a p100 respirator. It is also important that the mask fits well so that you get a good seal. A bad seal means reduced filtration effectiveness as unfiltered air and particles are getting around the mask and into your lungs. So, if you have a small face structure and are wearing a mask that is too big, you will not get a seal. 3M offers many of their respirators in small, med and large sizes - so buy the correct size (this will get you a better chance of getting a good seal, but it's not a guarantee as some face shapes and some mask shapes just don't fit together to get a good seal). Also, if you have facial hair, you will not get a good seal. Here's some more info from OSHA about fit. https://www.osha.gov/video/respiratory_protection/fittesting_transcript.html. Hospitals and other companies have equipment to conduct fit testing on each employee. Unfortunately, as studio potters we don't have access to that kind of equipment and testing, so do what you can to get a mask that fits your face. It might mean trying different models and manufacturers. Lastly, getting a p100 right now may be hard with COVID-19. Many places seem to be sold out or holding stock for healthcare. If a website says sold out, pick up the phone and see if you can get through that way. Good luck. -SD
  7. I'd be interested in the splash pan if still available. Sent you a pm. Thanks.
  8. Has anyone had any luck finding a splash pan for the Creative Industries MP?  

    1. JohnnyK


      Go to my profile, click on albums and go through to the pix I have of a splash pan made from the bottom of a plastic trash barrel that will work for you. Contact me if you need further info by clicking on the message icon in the header.


    2. S. Dean

      S. Dean

      Hi  Griceart.  No luck here.  When Speedball bought CI they didn't pick up the HP/MP/Jr wheels, so there is no manufacturer support.  Two part epoxy putty has kept my splash pan going.  For a replacement - JohnnyK's solution is the best approach I've seen.  (Thanks Johnny!)

  9. From the Paragon Sentry 2.0 Controller Manual https://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/IM218_Sentry_RampHold_Manual_Mar2010.pdf FTH / Failed to Heat ■ During a heating-up ramp, the programmed rate is faster than the kiln can heat. The temperature is below the set point temperature by more than the deviation setting. (See Temperature Deviation, page 17.) Program a slower rate. Or check for worn or burned out elements, defective relays, low voltage and defective thermocouples As a starting point, I second Dick's advice to check the sufficiency of the wiring over length of run. BTW, the Sentry 2.0 is the type of controller, not the kiln model.
  10. Speedball bought the Clay Boss line but not the HP, MP and Jr wheels that preceeded them. There is no vender support for the HP, MP, Jr.
  11. It's pretty deceptive, but I think it is for one brush even though it shows a set of 5 different sized brushes. The listing for the item is "MACK Sword Striper PINSTRIPING BRUSH 20 SERIES Size 00" Size 00 is the brush size.
  12. This article from the Dec 2017 Ceramics Monthly may interest you. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/ceramics-monthly/clay-tools/decorating-tools/tips-tools-calligraphy-nib/#
  13. Loaded up a glaze kiln this weekend - eclipse firing tomorrow!

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