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S. Dean

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About S. Dean

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  • Location
    Raleigh, NC USA
  • Interests
    Cooking, Travel, High Performance Driving

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  1. Nice find! The kiln appears to be in great shape and it looks like it will give you service for a long time. The only thing to be aware of is that Duncan kilns are no longer made. Here's some information Neil Estrick provided in another post about repairing Duncan kilns. This might be helpful to keep in mind when you eventually need elements or parts. Duncan kilns are no longer made. Paragon serviced them for a long time, but not any more. They may or may not have some parts still laying around. So if you get either of those kilns, you'll have to source parts from various places. The switches are pretty much standard items you can get on the internet. You may be able to use bricks from another brand, if you can figure out which brand has grooves that are similar enough. Euclids can probably make elements for you. Basically what I'm saying is that it's not going to be as easy as getting a kiln made by a company that is still in business. Another downside of Duncan kilns is that many of the models use twice as many elements as other kilns. Instead of 6 elements that wrap twice, they use twelve elements that wrap once. So it costs more to replace the elements and it's more work.
  2. 710 is the grogged version of 266. There's lots of info here on 266 and when you search the forum you will find it that is a beautiful clay that can be temperamental. 266 prefers a higher bisque than 08 (try 04). Although Standard calls it a cone 4-6 clay they recommend firing it at cone 5. Frequently bloats at Cone 6.
  3. https://www.theceramicshop.com/product/20076/skutt-wheel-head-14/
  4. Bailey has generic instructions for building your own table that they will send you. Dimensions are important - have the slab roller unit on hand before you build a table so you can make sure everything fits: The table top on the feed side of the slab roller is 1 inch lower than the table top on the output side (output side is the same height as the top of the bottom roller) The distance between the bottom of the machine housing and the table top is not the same for DRD's and DRDII's - be sure to get instructions specific to the model you buy. Rather than 1 table, I had two tables built with 3/4 inch plywood tops. This allows me to roll the machine out of the way when not in use and also have a larger stand alone work table. Both tables are on 4 locking casters. The larger work table is ~5/8 inch shorter which allows the tables to be level with a piece of sheetrock (see photo). The slight drop doesn't make any difference if I don't use the sheetrock for bigger slabs. This design was a better working option for my studio. It was not cheaper or faster than buying the Bailey table. -Stephen
  5. Ceramics - oh so many opportunities to fail ..... this is when you have to channel Thomas Edison who said "I have not failed, I've just found 10,000 ways that don't work" Nice piece - the next one will be even better.
  6. While you're probably joking qbout cooking pizzas, please don't cook food in a kiln used for ceramics. Don't want to risk ingesting contaminants. -SD
  7. Hi Gracet, Welcome to the forum. Paragon has supplied Duncan kiln parts since Duncan went out of business in 1996. I you go to https://www.paragonweb.com/Instruction_Manuals.cfm and scroll down the page, you will find links to manuals for Duncan kilns. Hopefully this will be helpful with operating the kiln/troubleshooting. Also, you could always call Paragon - they are known for being very helpful. Arnold Howard from Paragon is a member of this forum and posts from time to time. Wish I could help more, but I'm not directly familiar with the Duncan kilns. If you posted the model number, you might be able to get more specific input from others on the forum that have more experience with these kilns and kiln repair in general. Also, just a heads up that some posters have mentioned that Paragon has begun phasing out support for the Duncan line, so don't be surprised if you run into that. Good luck, -SD
  8. Has anyone had any luck finding a splash pan for the Creative Industries MP?  

    1. JohnnyK

      JohnnyK

      Go to my profile, click on albums and go through to the pix I have of a splash pan made from the bottom of a plastic trash barrel that will work for you. Contact me if you need further info by clicking on the message icon in the header.

      JohnnyK

    2. S. Dean

      S. Dean

      Hi  Griceart.  No luck here.  When Speedball bought CI they didn't pick up the HP/MP/Jr wheels, so there is no manufacturer support.  Two part epoxy putty has kept my splash pan going.  For a replacement - JohnnyK's solution is the best approach I've seen.  (Thanks Johnny!)

  9. As I read the initial post, I can understand your frustration. I also caught myself hoping he wasn't still driving. This is a challenging situation, especially considering how large your class is and the disproportionate needs of this student. Is there any way to appeal to the administration to provide some additional classroom support (whether as a reasonable accommodation for this student or for preserving the experience of your class as a whole)? If there are no $ for a paid classroom assistant, any way to bring in a volunteer with some pottery experience to help out? You are to be admired for trying to create an acceptable situation for all of your students. This may require you to let go of normal expectations of individual progress for this student and come up with creative strategies that allow him to experience that week's lesson. This could mean having an extra leatherhard piece for him to use when trimming, or some bisque pieces available for glazing. What's the harm as long as he finds the class worthwhile and isn't overly disruptive? Above all, remind yourself and encourage others to be kind (like the female student who gave him a bowl). Sadly, these situations tend to take care of themselves as he will forget to sign up for the next class or become too disabled to participate. -SD
  10. Just a caution that you should consider all these suggestions as possible pathways that need to be tested. You are in unknown territory so pick one approach that you want to try, test it on one piece to see what happens. That way if the test doesn't work, the whole set isn't affected.
  11. You can't go wrong with either the Brent or Skutt. Both brands are well made, high quality machines that are backed with great support from company's that have been in the pottery business for a long time. Enjoy your choice, whatever you ultimately decide.
  12. Looks like you're in Greenville, SC. Clay King is close by in Spartanburg. I'd buy the Skutt Steven Hill model from them. This is a combo that includes the fixed pan 1/2 hp skutt, leg extensions, the SSX controller and the shaft extension for ~$1,410. http://www.clay-king.com/pottery_wheels/skutt_thomas_stuart_pottery_wheels/skutt_thomas_steven_hill.html If the budget is $2k, an expanded definition of a wheel could include a nice stool, some bats .... .
  13. I use the 7500 mask too. I purchased mine from Envirosafety with p100 filters. This mask is available in small, medium and large so you can get the right fit. You can buy it with the filters (sold as a set for asbestos abatement) https://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/3m-7500-series-half-facepiece-asbestos-abatement-respirator-assembly.html . Optionally, you can buy the mask and specific filters individually. There are a few different styles of p100 filters available. I've always bought the version that comes with this asbestos set because they offer lower breathing resistance than other styles. There have been many posts on here about respirators, so search those too before making a decision.
  14. I'd leave the grinding areas of both the mortar and pestle unglazed. If you want to glaze part of the pestle, you might be able to use wadding on the unglazed areas since you can't use stilts. Just make sure the wadding isn't touching any glaze.
  15. A few troubleshooting questions: 1. Has the wheel head always been off center or is this something that developed? 2. Is the wheel sitting level? Check front-back, side-side on both wheel head and on the table top (they should be the same). If not, level the wheel, 3. When you take the wheel head off (all TS/Skutt wheel heads are removable), when you engage the foot pedal does the shaft have any wobble or does it spin true? 4. Is there anything where the shaft and wheel head connect that is keeping the wheel head from seating correctly? Good opportunity to clean and apply anti-seize. Reinstall and reconfirm that the wheel head is level. 5. Does it make a difference if you remove the wheel head, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it? 6. Any unusual noises when you are centering? I'd also give Skutt (they purchased TS wheels) a call - live bodies answer the phone and they have reputation for good customer service. Let us know what you find out. -SD
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