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About TerryBerry

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  • Location
    Bentonville, Arkansas
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Making, Fixing, Repurposing
  1. Looks like you got it figured out. The diagram you shared is basically my new set-up, just without the 3rd set of elements. Here's a summary of my process of anyone else find themselves in a similar situation. 1. Bought a universal infinite switch rated for 240V from Amazon. They're less than $20. 2. Removed the timers and relay. 3. Mounted the new infinite switch onto the cover panel making use of the space vacated by the timers/relay. Just drilled a hole in the cover and popped it in. 4. Wired the switches directly to the kiln sitter and the elements. Just like in the d
  2. Got the new infinite switch installed and on the first pass it seems to be working. All the elements come on and heat up just fine. Still got some testing to do, but it looks like we're on the right path! Thanks again for sharing your advice!
  3. Thanks for the advice. I was surprised to find that the cost of a V6cf was comparable to replacing the relays. Looking at all my options, I'm going to go with the 2nd switch for now. I'm one of those guys that still smokes brisket using charcoal and babysitting the dampeners for 9 hours. So Saturdays will just become my Smoke & Fire days-- when I spend all day smoking ribs and firing clay. Plus if I start out with a manual kiln, then when I finally make the switch to digital, I'll appreciate it that much more. I'll update the thread once I get everything copacetic.
  4. So, fun fact: my kiln isn't fixed after all. It started chattering again, and a user manual for the kiln that I found online confirmed that the repeat cycle timer is bad. Both timers are supposed to be changed together. So I'm looking at about $225. Plus these parts haven't been manufactured in 20 years, so they aren't used, but definitely aren't new. The two timers and the relay work together to put the kiln through a preheating phase. They cause the elements to turn on and off every 60 seconds for two hours. After two hours the elements stay on until reaching temp and the
  5. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick @High Bridge Pottery @liambesaw and @Mark C. Thank you all for the advice! I actually got it working! I ended up disconnecting everything, testing the controllers, relay, even the continuity of the wires. Everything seemed to be in order, so I put it back together using the wiring diagram. I also switched back to the original relay (since the new one had melted). And... magically it started working. My best guess is that a wire was crossed somewhere or a connection was loose to begin with, and then the new relay wasn't a perfect match. Magnecraft no lo
  6. Yeah, it probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call. Luckily I'm from Arkansas so I don't need an interpreter when I talk to someone speaking Texan.
  7. Thanks for the quick reply. My kiln may not technically be considered "Manual"...to be honest, I was just trying to throw in a little more jargon to sound like I knew what I was talking about. Yes, that's the wiring diagram I've been working with and my kiln is wired to its specifications. My next guess was that one (or both) of the timers might be malfunctioning. Unfortunately, since Paragon has largely phased out Duncan parts, the replacements I'm finding online go for anywhere between $200-$350! I had hoped that maybe I was making some obvious mistake and that someone on he
  8. A couple years ago, I got a Duncan EA-820 manual kiln off of Craigslist. Paid about $50 for it. My garage was already wired with a 240v outlet, so I was excited to start exploring pottery. However, when I turned the kiln on, I heard a clicking so rapid, it would more aptly be described as a chattering. After some basic troubleshooting and Googling, I found it was the relay which was clicking. Thinking, perhaps the relay was bad, I replaced it. The new one not only clicked repetitively, but promptly began to melt. Frustrated, I moved on to another project and then life got in th
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