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hansen

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About hansen

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    http://americanpotter.blogspot.com

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    Alexandria, Virginia

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  1. From day one we busted open 50 lb. sacks of clay, feldspar, and grog to make stoneware, earthenware, porcelain, and raku clay. Same as per glazes, engobes, lustres, slips, terra sig. In fact, the clay I’m using is mostly Kentucky Stone, about cone 8. Digging my own clay? It’s interesting but it rarely gets beyond bisque. On the other hand, I do make my own ash glazes, and I usually have a few pounds of new ash annually for this. It’s a by product of fireplace, firepit
  2. This is difficult to say, I was inspired to get back into clay while sitting in the library in the basement of an art museum, surrounded by books in Japanese and Chinese pottery. I’ve always had an interest in digging my own clay and networked with other potters doing the same. I’m proud of formulating clay body and glaze from scratch, and often in unguided territory with raw harvested materials. Working with Leach’s Old Yellow was amazing and I’ll have to say working with AG-19 glaze, Pleydell-Bouverie and Rhodes glazes kind of define what I like about clay
  3. Pots "that others will want" is not the goal. Consistent reproduction of the product is. How long does this take to learn? That depends on whether who is teaching you can guide you into handles, lids, spouts, and gets you up and running. Throwing the consistent cylindrical form takes patience, or about 6 months of 8 hour days working, but thats not to say 8 hours at the wheel. Maybe about half your time is spent on marketing (not part of your 8 hours, sadly), and studio time is divided up between the many tasks. The important thing here is not the "training" but rather the ineffable process o
  4. Anyway, I know this has been asked for several times but I just made the connection. Here is how to convert an old electric kiln into a gas reduction kiln. You don't have to have an old electric however, just use soft brick, figure the top out somehow. Dimensions should be adjustable but pretty close to standard specifications. - hansen http://www.jossresearch.org/kilns/paragon/conversion.html I think I have heard of making a fairly air tight sagger filled with chracoal & the work in it used in some kilns. Suggesting this for electric may pose some problems, but on a small
  5. I think I have heard of making a fairly air tight sagger filled with chracoal & the work in it used in some kilns. Suggesting this for electric may pose some problems, but on a small scale in an older kiln it might be worth experimenting with. For glazed pieces, with front loading electrics, raku firing is possible, with post-fire reduction in either combustibles or water, but possibly dangerous. I hesitate to suggest either of these options, it's probably wiser to build a small updraft fired with propane for your reduction, and that also allows higher temperatures h a n s e n
  6. Great website!!! WOW!!!

  7. summer is throwing season!!!

  8. yeah, form the pieces so they shrink uniformly, for example, a sphere or semi sphere: check the designs of pueblo pottery. Remember to use clay with grog or other appropriate thermal shock design such as raku clay. Paint the terra sigalatta over this for burnished surfaces, etc. And take your time with the firing. h a n s e n
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