MJ326 Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Hello, I am a newbie. I have inherited the beginnings of a home ceramic studio. 100's of slip cast molds, mixer, pouring table. No kiln or mentor! I have the opportunity to buy a kiln that fires to a cone 5, where most other kilns I've seen go to 8 or 10. I know it's sufficient for bisque but what about glazes for the Classic Christmas tree etc. I have a lot of platter and bowl molds, does food grade glaze require higher firings? Thanks for any advise you can give. I only have room for 1 kiln and although it's a good price, it might not be a good value! MJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Welcome to the forums. There are some pinned topics on each board that may answer some of your questions. But in short, here are some answers. Cone 5 is considered mid-fire, but is hot enough for food safe wares. Of course "food safe" is determined by many other factors, such as which glazes are used. Buuuuut, there are clays that vitrify at those temps, and vitrification is a big part of making food safe items. Cone 8-10 kilns are pretty common. That tends to be the max end for most electrics. The caveat is, not a lot fire that high in electric, because it wears out the elements much quicker. Many that fire in the high fire range, use gas kilns. People will bisque in electric, and then glaze fire in gas. To save money, you could use low fire clay and glaze for the non-food ware items, like the Christmas Trees. You would save on electricity, and wear on the elements. If you post the specifics on the kiln, brand, model, condition, others could give you an idea, on if the asking price is reasonable, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Whether the kiln is sufficient depends on what claybody temperature you plan to use. If you are staying at low fire, then a cone 5 kiln will suffice. But if you want to go mid-fire range, cones 5/6 for example, you may want to find another kiln option. A kiln capable of at least cone 6, but preferably cone 10, would give you the most flexibility for now and the future . . . perhaps when you are making work other than the mold-forms you have come into possession. Don't just think about today's need; plan ahead. A kiln is a big investment -- even used. And, if you only have space for one, you need to think about the best option for using that space. But it comes down to what clay you will use and need to glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 bciskepottery is right. It is a great idea to think about future needs, with any piece of ceramic equipment, because the cost usually means, they have to last you a while, so they should be versatile enough to change with you. I didn't have to plan ahead with my kiln, because I got it for free. I wasn't turning that offer down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 What model/voltage/phase is the kiln? Most pottery kilns that are rated for cone 5 are the 10 cubic foot models, like the L&L E28T-3 or Skutt KM1227, running on 208 volt, single phase power. If that's the case, and you're going to be using it on 240 volt power, you can change out the elements and it will be a cone 8 kiln. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ326 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thank you both for your replies and advice. I am going to pass on this kiln even though it's a great price. I have another option that is in well used condition but a cone 8. Smaller capacity so less to operate too. Thanks again. MJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ326 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Neil, just when I thought I made a decision....lol, it is a Skutt 1227. It has electronic controls, besides changing the element does it complicate the programming? As a novice this might be beyond me. But it's near new.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 1227 can and will go to cone 6. but its really not designed as a cone 6 kiln....... the skutt tech support suggests for regular use eg. weekly firing at best is a cone 1 kiln. unoficcial ..... however for less use like 0nce a month or bi monthly cone 6 firing you may get your moneys worth. skutt's advice for that size kiln and frequent use is the 1227 PK (production kiln) .... running the 1227 at cone 6 shortens life span of elements, relays, wiring...... if they are telling you its a cone 5 kiln chances are its 208 V if the kiln is from a school it may be 3 phase which could cause problems if trying to install at home (there is work around) important here you can get serial # and call skutt. asumming no undocumented work was done to kiln other options include upgrading to apm elements when old ones go out personally i wouldn't change anything right away....why fix if it aint broke (cveat emptor) once everything is back to spec elements phase relays harness no complication in programming. it took us one firing after relay ,harness change to get it properly calibrated to cones. if i ever buy a used kiln you can bet ill be testing it with multimeter before purchase, which sounds very complicated. but from an electronic dummy like my self do able while most of my work has been fired in skutt.... im a huge fan of L&L (no neil is not paying me) 1227 is approx 10 cu feet (9.9) which is pretty big for starting out...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 1. get serial # of kiln 2. call skutt to get history, and info on kiln. discuss with tech your plans 3. confirm power options at install site 4. before purchasing check resistance of elements to make sure they are for 208 or 240 an that the resistance is within range.... test as much as you can with multi meter (buy or borrow a decent one) 5. make sure relays are functioning 6.check plug to make sure is appropriate.... look for signs or arc ing and or discoloration this should get you 95 percent there skutt has great customer service... but they do stay busy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 if you are going to be doing work involving the molds you inherited, that is usually done with very low fire clay, cone 06. repeat::: cone zero six. the temperature at which you bisque and final glaze fire is cone 06 and nowhere near cone 5. just know what you plan to fire. if it is to be 06, buy the kiln. you might get years of use out of it at cone 06. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Neil, just when I thought I made a decision....lol, it is a Skutt 1227. It has electronic controls, besides changing the element does it complicate the programming? As a novice this might be beyond me. But it's near new.... Changing the elements won't affect anything else. A set of elements is $300, which may be worth it if everything else is in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ326 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thank you everyone! After speaking with the Skutt tech rep, he did confirm that I could change the elements, but they don't recommend it for frequent firings. Exactly what you all said! I am passing on this kiln, which I hope I don't regret some day. In the mean time I have come across an old Duncan ES820-2 which is owned by an acquaintance's niece. I can make sure it works before buying too. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 All kiln companies say that they don't recommend their cone 8 kilns for repeated cone 6 firings, but I know many, many people who do it and don't have any problems. I think it's just their way of avoiding possible issues. Yes, it's good if the kiln can go hotter, but it really isn't a problem. If that's a digital Skutt, you'll be much happier with it than a manual Duncan. The other down side of the Duncan kilns is that they are usually more expensive to maintain. Elements will cost more than other brands, often by quite a bit. Call Paragon and find out how much a set of elements will be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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