Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Kiln issue


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 Iforgot

Iforgot

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 155 posts
  • LocationColorado

Posted 08 June 2013 - 11:14 PM

Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel
Derek VonDrehle

Raku, Pit fired, Majolica, and Stoneware ceramic artisit

#2 minspargal

minspargal

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 90 posts
  • LocationPort Aransas, Tx

Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:54 AM

You need to buy a kiln that fires to cone 10 if you want cone 8 firings. Is your kiln used, perhaps the elements are getting worn out?

#3 justanassembler

justanassembler

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 248 posts
  • LocationBaton Rouge, LA

Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:44 AM

Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel


Darrel,
A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln:


What brand kiln is it?
What is the model #?
What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag)
Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly?

Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.)

#4 Iforgot

Iforgot

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 155 posts
  • LocationColorado

Posted 09 June 2013 - 11:56 PM


Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel


Darrel,
A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln:


What brand kiln is it?
What is the model #?
What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag)
Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly?

Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.)




My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help!

Darrel
Derek VonDrehle

Raku, Pit fired, Majolica, and Stoneware ceramic artisit

#5 justanassembler

justanassembler

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 248 posts
  • LocationBaton Rouge, LA

Posted 10 June 2013 - 12:11 AM



Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel


Darrel,
A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln:


What brand kiln is it?
What is the model #?
What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag)
Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly?

Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.)




My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help!

Darrel


http://www.paragonwe...vice_Manual.pdf

section two addresses testing the elements and the switches--once you have your multimeter you'll be able to do just that. Their instructions show the use of an analog meter, but a digital one will work no differently.



#6 Iforgot

Iforgot

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 155 posts
  • LocationColorado

Posted 10 June 2013 - 12:19 AM



Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel


Darrel,
A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln:


What brand kiln is it?
What is the model #?
What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag)
Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly?

Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.)




My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help!

Darrel


Also, yes I am putting the cone in the sitter correctly, the sitter works perfectly for bisque firings, just not for ^5.
Derek VonDrehle

Raku, Pit fired, Majolica, and Stoneware ceramic artisit

#7 justanassembler

justanassembler

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 248 posts
  • LocationBaton Rouge, LA

Posted 10 June 2013 - 12:26 AM




Hello Potters,
I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken. No to mention that none of these firings have been successful, glazes are under developed, spots in clay bodies aren't showing up, and gloss glazes are turning out matte. So, is there any way that I could possibly make some change to my kiln that would make it's max temp be like cone 8 or 10? Then perhaps if it could fire hotter, it could fire to cone 5 with more ease.

Thank you!
Darrel


Darrel,
A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln:


What brand kiln is it?
What is the model #?
What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag)
Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly?

Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.)




My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 240v single phase. I currently do not have a multimeter however I will get one in the next couple of days. Thank you so much for your help!

Darrel


Also, yes I am putting the cone in the sitter correctly, the sitter works perfectly for bisque firings, just not for ^5.

In all likelyhood your elements are going bad--the section i pointed you to gives instructions on how to test them.




#8 Mark C.

Mark C.

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,597 posts
  • LocationNear Arcata Ca-redwood rain forest

Posted 10 June 2013 - 04:04 AM

On your non bent cones are they the large size ones in cone pads and the sitter has the small cones right?
This kiln has 2 1/2 inch walls so its really working at cone 6.
The elements as noted need checking.
mark
Mark Cortright
www.liscomhillpottery.com




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users