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glazing and firing greenware


anniec9

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Once firing is possible, however I recommend brushing the glaze on to the ware. If you dip the ware into the glaze, too much glaze and too much water may be absorbed which can cause the fragile greenware to fall apart and maybe even into the glaze vat. Fire the ware very slowly with a preheat just as you would a regular bisque firing but fire the ware to the maturing temperature of the glaze. Be sure to keep the feet clean of glaze and wipe off any excess with a damp sponge.

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Once firing is possible, however I recommend brushing the glaze on to the ware. If you dip the ware into the glaze, too much glaze and too much water may be absorbed which can cause the fragile greenware to fall apart and maybe even into the glaze vat. Fire the ware very slowly with a preheat just as you would a regular bisque firing but fire the ware to the maturing temperature of the glaze. Be sure to keep the feet clean of glaze and wipe off any excess with a damp sponge.

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it might be time to check out spraying your glazes. i single fire after spraying glaze. very little gets wetter than will dry within a few minutes in a warm space.

 

it may be heresy but my last kiln load had never fired pieces and previously fired but too thin a coating of glaze items on the same shelf. it all came out fine. have been doing this for years without problems. it takes experience to get just the right amount of glaze on a piece when using a sprayer so sometimes i do have to fire something twice. not often, though.

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it might be time to check out spraying your glazes. i single fire after spraying glaze. very little gets wetter than will dry within a few minutes in a warm space.

 

it may be heresy but my last kiln load had never fired pieces and previously fired but too thin a coating of glaze items on the same shelf. it all came out fine. have been doing this for years without problems. it takes experience to get just the right amount of glaze on a piece when using a sprayer so sometimes i do have to fire something twice. not often, though.

 

 

 

 

 

What temperature (cone ) did you fire this last load to? And I'm using a gas kiln, would it make a difference?

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[...] And I'm using a gas kiln, would it make a difference?

 

 

 

I talked to my professor about this very topic tonight! He suggested that if you fire with a gas kiln, to whatever cone (6 to whatever) that you 'candle' the kiln overnight. You turn on the pilot light, and then that will dry out the work if it isn't dry already. Also, you can dip your work, just use care and don't use tongs. Those were his words, but they do make sense.

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[...] And I'm using a gas kiln, would it make a difference?

 

 

 

I talked to my professor about this very topic tonight! He suggested that if you fire with a gas kiln, to whatever cone (6 to whatever) that you 'candle' the kiln overnight. You turn on the pilot light, and then that will dry out the work if it isn't dry already. Also, you can dip your work, just use care and don't use tongs. Those were his words, but they do make sense.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for talking to your professor, I am basically a self taught potter with the help of lots of books, DVD's, friends who are potters also, and forums like this. I wish

I had taken a TAFE or Uni course when I was younger, but at my stage of life, I feel it's too late. As a general procedure I do "candle" the kiln with the small burner to dry out the pots for a bisque fire, so will continue with this when glazing and firing greenware. Thanks again.

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it might be time to check out spraying your glazes. i single fire after spraying glaze. very little gets wetter than will dry within a few minutes in a warm space.

 

it may be heresy but my last kiln load had never fired pieces and previously fired but too thin a coating of glaze items on the same shelf. it all came out fine. have been doing this for years without problems. it takes experience to get just the right amount of glaze on a piece when using a sprayer so sometimes i do have to fire something twice. not often, though.

 

 

 

 

 

What temperature (cone ) did you fire this last load to? And I'm using a gas kiln, would it make a difference?

 

 

 

 

i fire to cone 6 exclusively. i have no experience firing a gas kiln.

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Thanks for talking to your professor, I am basically a self taught potter with the help of lots of books, DVD's, friends who are potters also, and forums like this. I wish

I had taken a TAFE or Uni course when I was younger, but at my stage of life, I feel it's too late. As a general procedure I do "candle" the kiln with the small burner to dry out the pots for a bisque fire, so will continue with this when glazing and firing greenware. Thanks again.

 

 

Don't worry about taking a class as much! That is, unless you have time. You can learn just as much outside of a class by reading books and such. The point of school isn't a piece of paper saying you graduated, but the people you meet who have the same goals. (Don't mention that to certain professors and administrators, they believe that paper is the only goal one should have in life!)

 

Historically, Lucie Rie was a potter who fired glazed greenware. In her studio, she kept a pilot light lit at all times. This would dry out the work in her studio. (You could maybe invest in a dehumidifier, if safety is an issue. Or, you could chance an uncontrolled studio-kiln fire!) She sometimes brushed on the glaze... while spinning it on a wheel!

 

I'd wonder if it would be best to bush on glaze when the work isn't bone dry, and then let it dry. This way, you could apply the glaze while it already has a little moisture still making the piece strong. But that's just my personal wonderings.

 

Really, you just need to use care that you don't break the greenwear while you glaze it. Personally, I see myself brushing the outside of bowls after pouring glaze on the inside.

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Thanks for talking to your professor, I am basically a self taught potter with the help of lots of books, DVD's, friends who are potters also, and forums like this. I wish

I had taken a TAFE or Uni course when I was younger, but at my stage of life, I feel it's too late. As a general procedure I do "candle" the kiln with the small burner to dry out the pots for a bisque fire, so will continue with this when glazing and firing greenware. Thanks again.

 

 

Don't worry about taking a class as much! That is, unless you have time. You can learn just as much outside of a class by reading books and such. The point of school isn't a piece of paper saying you graduated, but the people you meet who have the same goals. (Don't mention that to certain professors and administrators, they believe that paper is the only goal one should have in life!)

 

Historically, Lucie Rie was a potter who fired glazed greenware. In her studio, she kept a pilot light lit at all times. This would dry out the work in her studio. (You could maybe invest in a dehumidifier, if safety is an issue. Or, you could chance an uncontrolled studio-kiln fire!) She sometimes brushed on the glaze... while spinning it on a wheel!

 

I'd wonder if it would be best to bush on glaze when the work isn't bone dry, and then let it dry. This way, you could apply the glaze while it already has a little moisture still making the piece strong. But that's just my personal wonderings.

 

Really, you just need to use care that you don't break the greenwear while you glaze it. Personally, I see myself brushing the outside of bowls after pouring glaze on the inside.

 

 

If the work is bone dry the glaze can get sucked in too quickly for a thick application. You can also get cracking.

Marcia

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