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Benzine

Well, There's Your Problem!

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I use a commercial low-fire white clay body described as: "A smooth clay that fires a nice snow white color. Suitable for hand-building or wheel-throwing. For the best results, bisque to Cone 04 then glaze to Cone 06".

my protocol is:  bisque to ~cone 07;  fire at Cone 3 oxidation for dinnerware;  and use as a stiff matte white/gray glaze at cone 10 oxidation/reduction.  

The red version works the almost the same way; the difference is that at cone 10 reduction the glaze is red/black and moves but is not truly a "runny glaze".    

LT
 

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I purchased a Skutt from my school district a few years back when they consolidated two Jr. Highs into a Middle school. I had been a Secondary department head when teaching, and knew the kiln well. It had one melt down, and the teacher had it repaired to pristine condition, and then never used it again. I also knew at the time that the building had 240 which meant the kiln was 240. Thought I would finally get a kiln setter. However, it has just sat as it is smaller than the L&L, and so new furniture would be needed. I have decided that I need the space more than the kiln so will be getting rid of it. Hoping to put some money into a new L&L in the next few years.

 

best,

Pres

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9 hours ago, neilestrick said:

@Benzine Yes, you'll still need to change the elements out for 240 volts. That should be all it needs.

Yes, I've seen that many times. One just last week, in fact. When low fire clay goes up to cone 5/6, it melts into a greenish glass that eats right through the bricks. Many a kiln has met its demise that way!

Do I need to change anything beyond the elements?

I wouldn't call this a greenish glass, but everything else matches your description.  There was some black "Glass" on the kiln sitter.  Would you guess glaze, or a REALLY melted cone?

9 hours ago, Arnold Howard said:

Sometimes the shelf with melted, embedded clay becomes a work of art.

Arnold Howard

Work of Art eh?  Interested, make me an offer...

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