augal Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I have an olympic kiln model s23 he . I just put new coils in it, fired the kiln empty the first time as instructed, it fired ok on a slow bisque to 04. the next firing I did a bisque firing to 04, and it seemed to take a little longer than I remembered i thought but dismissed it as imagination. The third firing was also slow bisque to cone 04, after 24 hours it was still firing and had reached 1650. I shut it down, the bartlett controller did not show an error. What can cause this to happen? Would the connectors not being tight enough cause this to occur? It is still cooling and I am searching for answers while I wait . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Did you fire an empty kiln after installing the elements and watch that the elements all fired red hot. Lid needs to be full open. I did have this happen with my Duncan and found my top set wasn't firing. I would check all the element connection to make sure they have a good locked on connection. Also you can check the amp on the power cord. I do not know anything about this kiln. I couldn't find it in a google. give us some more details. Is it Manual with a kiln sitter or digital electric? If nothing else call Olympic Tech support number: (800) 241-4400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 all elements are firing, when i fired it empty i checked through the peephole, i suspect the connectors as i had a very hard time getting them crimped . thank you for the response and the tech number. tomorrow when it is cool i will check the connections. i had wondered if that could reduce amps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 The crimps need to be very firm-the right tool is needed and some hand strength .Any loose connections will make for excessive heat at that point. Lets see what Neil says he's the electric kiln repair guy here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 i found a loose connection and one very loose connection that had heated. you are right about the hand strength needed, i had a hard time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 You could use a c-clamp on the wire crimpers to get it tight when crimping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I really dislike those crimp on element connectors. This type are much easier to install and can be replaced without destroying the end of the element if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 If your kiln doesn't call for those special connectors can you use them instead of crimping? T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 You can use them - large amp connections use them all the time.Crimps are cheaper and many manufactures use them.As long as you have clean wire as well as the right size connector.THE RIGHT SIZE IS MOST IMPORTANT AS THE SCREW NEEDS TO LAND ON ALL THE CONDUCTORS. ops caps on I would use conductive copper coat as it takes heat well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 It is odd that the controller didn't put up and error code. It must have been firing just fast enough to keep it happy. Crimp connectors on kiln should be outlawed. It's difficult for many people to get them tight, and if you mess anything up it's really difficult to fix it. Make sure you're using a tool that's made for crimping, not just a pair of pliers. I use a tool like THIS. Those connectors that Min showed are good, although the allen wrench head on the screw is a bit unwieldy. I really like the ones Paragon uses, although they require a ring terminal on the end of the feeder wires. They're the easiest to use, though, because the element and feeder wires don't have to fit into the same hole and you can use a nut driver to tighten them. For running test where elements need to be unhooked they can be beat. The downside is that they're ridiculously expensive. You get new ones with new Paragon elements, but buying them outright is pricey for a little connector. I've often considered making my own since brass is easy to drill and tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Another simple DIY connector is to simply use a nut and bolt. Bend the element pigtail into a circle, put a ring terminal on the feeder wire, and bolt them together with a washer on each side. I still see those on old kilns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 In my old days as an electrician we used brass split bolts - they are very easy to get tight-this is was they look like and they come in all sizes. I'm not a Home Depot fan but this is the image I was looking for. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn-6-SOL-STR-to-16-SOL-STR-Split-Bolt-Connector-6SBC-B2-5/100165861 On a side note Neils photo of a crimper is the ONLY kind to use-no pliers as he noted. You only have one chance with your element pigtail with crimp why risk it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 all of you have been very helpful, i need to replace one insulator as the bottom one got too hot because it was loose and damaged one end of the insulator at the connection. the best place to get them is???? and would lowes have the high temperature connectors like it on there? I do have a crimping tool, my dad did a lot of electrical work, wish he were here to oversee me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 I looked at the paragon connectors, they pose another question, the ring terminal that goes on the power wire....does it have to be a special one ? if i am not mistaken they are also crimped on arent they? My crimping tool is exactly like Neils but for me it took two hands to squeeze it near hard enough. It was very hard for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 would the connector shown above work> it is aluminum and copper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Do not use aluminum connectors. The ring terminals used with the Paragon connectors should be high temp terminals. Easy to find online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Use brass or copper connectors .No aluminum I cannot say about a big box store as we do not have any in this county. I'd buy them online as Neil suggests-get the right size or a size assortment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augal Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 thank you both, i did find the brass ones at the big box stores the addition of a ring connector holds me back from the paragon, i assume it cannot be the usual for electrical use. as you can tell i normally wire lights and normal things that you can use the wire nuts on :} just saw Neils response about ring connector, i will figure it out, you all have helped point me in the right direction and given me enough information to as they say ...get it done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 http://crimpsupply.com/connectors/high-temperature-terminals http://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wire-terminals/high-temperature-wire-terminals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 split bolts are here https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSBC-4-Copper-Connector/dp/B000FPCGQQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498662470&sr=1-3-fkmr2&keywords=slit+bolt+connectors other connectors are here http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/category/39/245/Connection-Wires-%26-Connectors/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 split bolts are here https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSBC-4-Copper-Connector/dp/B000FPCGQQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498662470&sr=1-3-fkmr2&keywords=slit+bolt+connectors other connectors are here http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/category/39/245/Connection-Wires-%26-Connectors/ 50 cents per terminal?!? Highway robbery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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