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augal

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About augal

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  • Location
    alabama
  • Interests
    stained glass, glass mosaics, tile mosaics, refinishing repurposing furniture, interior decorating, pottery, and various other things.

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  1. my olympic kiln with bartlett controller was doing a slow bisque fire and seemed to have stopped heating at 1636.   18 hours after starting it, it is still at 1636 and has been for several hours now.  i have rather new elements in it. it is not  clicking like it is trying to heat to a higher temp as it does when it is heating.  any ideas i am not getting any error codes.

    1. neilestrick

      neilestrick

      It's odd that it hasn't given an error code yet, but sometimes they just don't. Go ahead and shut it off, though. if it hasn't gotten to temp yet, it's not going to. Here's what to check:

      1. Elements. They can just randomly fry out, so check for breaks, or better yet use a multi-meter to check for continuity.

      2. Connections. Check all wire connections in the control box to see if anything fried out.

      3. Thermocouple. If it's really worn and nasty looking it should be replaced. If everything else checks out, replace the thermocouple even if it looks good. Sometimes they can crack but it's not visible.

      4. Unload the kiln once it's cool, then do a custom program- 1 segment, rate of 9999, temp of 1000. Turn it on and it'll run full on. Let it go a few minutes then carefully crack the lid and see if any elements aren't glowing. If a single element is out, then there's probably a break in that element. If both elements in one section of the kiln aren't glowing, then the relay for that section is probably dead. In that case replace all the relays if they haven't been replaced recently. If you're handy with a multi-meter, you can check the power system that way and it's a little faster.

    2. augal

      augal

      thank you for the help i am about to go unload and see what i can find out. no error code had me worried.  it is an oloympic model S18HE and i tried looking up relays and thermocouples just to see what i might be looking at cost wise but cannot seem to find anywhere that will tell me which one i need.   neither have been replacedbefore.  

  2. thank you both, i did find the brass ones at the big box stores the addition of a ring connector holds me back from the paragon, i assume it cannot be the usual for electrical use. as you can tell i normally wire lights and normal things that you can use the wire nuts on :} just saw Neils response about ring connector, i will figure it out, you all have helped point me in the right direction and given me enough information to as they say ...get it done!
  3. I looked at the paragon connectors, they pose another question, the ring terminal that goes on the power wire....does it have to be a special one ? if i am not mistaken they are also crimped on arent they? My crimping tool is exactly like Neils but for me it took two hands to squeeze it near hard enough. It was very hard for me.
  4. all of you have been very helpful, i need to replace one insulator as the bottom one got too hot because it was loose and damaged one end of the insulator at the connection. the best place to get them is???? and would lowes have the high temperature connectors like it on there? I do have a crimping tool, my dad did a lot of electrical work, wish he were here to oversee me.
  5. i found a loose connection and one very loose connection that had heated. you are right about the hand strength needed, i had a hard time .
  6. all elements are firing, when i fired it empty i checked through the peephole, i suspect the connectors as i had a very hard time getting them crimped . thank you for the response and the tech number. tomorrow when it is cool i will check the connections. i had wondered if that could reduce amps
  7. I have an olympic kiln model s23 he . I just put new coils in it, fired the kiln empty the first time as instructed, it fired ok on a slow bisque to 04. the next firing I did a bisque firing to 04, and it seemed to take a little longer than I remembered i thought but dismissed it as imagination. The third firing was also slow bisque to cone 04, after 24 hours it was still firing and had reached 1650. I shut it down, the bartlett controller did not show an error. What can cause this to happen? Would the connectors not being tight enough cause this to occur? It is still cooling and I am searching for answers while I wait .
  8. I have olympic kiln model S18HE cone 10 240v kiln with bartlett controller. It has two connected elements that will not heat up when i did the test i found online.. 1 and 3 lit up and 2 and 4 did not. how to check to be sure it is the element and not the relay before i order parts to fix? I am pretty good with basic wiring and can use amp or ohm meter ....have pulled cover and there is no obvious issue visible so it is a matter of testing. i am thinking element failure for a couple of reasons. any advice is welcome.
  9. Neil I cannot find watts anywhere on the plate i can give the serial number on it . I just found your reply sorry i was slow to respond
  10. neilestrick :this is what i sent. i agree it might help someone with the same issue. On the front plate is model af 2431 3†208v 45amp three phase. It has now been wired to one phase. The resistance on the element wire he had me test read 11 . the kiln is 31 across and 36 ½ tall. I am looking to see if I still have the photos before and after wiring I cleaned out photos and may have deleted them The 70 amp breaker is wired to a junction box with 16/2 wire. I understood that the elements were the same in this unit, they were not changed out and that did not seem to be a concern in the conversion. the man who helped me was very nice and he went above and beyond to help me. Yes it is my kiln in my shop at my residence.
  11. I am sending the information to your email if that is ok
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