docweathers Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 I'm trying to express my creative psychosis with the new design ideas. Can anyone recommend a clear stiff ^ 6 majolica glaze that takes colorants well? Thanks Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 There is a good one in Linda Arbuckle's handouts and I think there is one in mastering ^6 Glazes. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 Dear Doc, Here is one. But there is no such animal as a Clear majolica. Majolica is opaque . Also colors are added with overglaze on top of the white. cone 6 majolica updated thu 31 oct 96 Linda Arbuckle on tue 2 jul 96 Richard Burkett on tue 22 oct 96 I've been meaning to post this for a while but the recipe was at school and I usually read my mail from home. Here's a cone 6 majolica recipe that one of my students developed in the glaze class last semester. It has very low amounts of boron (in the form of gerstley borate) so it better supports a wide range of stain colors, even pinks, lavenders and other somewhat fugitive colors. It should fit most clay bodies, but you may have to adjust it to fit yours with out crazing or shivering. Glaze name: Midrange Majolica 96 Cone: 4 - 5 - 6 Color: Opaque White Testing: Tested Surface texture: Shiny or Glossy Firing: Ox. or Red. Recipe: Percent Batch Gerstley borate 4.85 242 Nepheline Sye. 30.09 1504 EPK 4.20 210 Dolomite 2.07 103 Whiting 8.49 424 Flint 41.09 2054 Zircopax 9.21 460 Totals: 100.00 % 5000 Gm Also add: Bentonite 3.00 150 Epsom salts 0.50 25 Comments: From Linda Litteral - SDSU Glaze class 1996. She called it 'A-7 Chinese.' Tested for new Midrange majolica for class use. Almost boron free - good for stain colors that are subject to dissolving in boron glazes. Very stable, does not move during firing unless quite thick. Will crawl slightly if very thick. Applies well either by dipping or brushing. Works well with almost all Duncan EZ-Stroke underglaze colors as majolica washes, as do Amaco velvet red versions of the zirconium encapsulted red stains. Probably most stains would work well also. Color possibities: Use mason stains mixed 50/50 with Pemco frit P-25 or Ferro Frit 3124, or use 70 stain/30 gerstley borate in a watery mix for colors over glaze or some combination of gerstley borate and frit. Using too much gerstley borate may make the stain change color or become pastel. Purple stains may need to have more flux added up to 3 parts flux to 1 part stain. If you use all frit, add liquid starch or CMC to colors for easier brushing and to minimize smearing before they're fired. Use these Duncan EZ-stroke transparent underglazes as overglaze wash for color: EZ003, EZ004, EZ007, EZ012, EZ014, EZ019, EZ020, EZ021, EZ024, EZ025, EZ027, EZ028, EZ030, EZ032, EZ161. Almost all the other EZstrokes will work, especially if thinned slightly. The darker blues and the Sierra Yellow EZstrokes will wrinkle and get rough if applied too thickly. CoverCoat CC 154 should work as well. Most other CoverCoat colors will work when thinly applied, but may be dry if thick. Try adding a teaspoonful of frit or gerstley borate to a jar of CC underglaze for glossier color. Other color possibilities include washes of the common colorants (mix chrome and rutile 50/50 with gerstley borate or frit). A thin red iron or red earthenware slip or possibly a red terra sigillata on the foot or other exposed clay areas makes a nice contrast if used on a white clay body. Other color possibilities: A nice dark blue green with: 2% cobalt carb + 3% chrome oxide + 2% black iron oxide added to the glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 Marcia Thanks for your help on this. Your expertise is far beyond mine. I may have been a little too cryptic in describing what I'm looking for. I need a very stiff ^6 glaze that takes colorants well. As you'd expect high zircopax glazes make all of my colors very pastel, which is not what I want. What happens if I leave out the zircopax...Or put much less of it? Would this give me a more clear glaze... In the recipe you offer or the one below. Which of the two glazes do you think would be better. I do have a good supply of the original Gerstley borate. I found this in one of Linda's handouts (the one in Mastering cone 6...looks like it could move a bit??) San Diego State U Majolica - C 6 Dolomite 2.3 Whiting 8.7 Feldspar 35.8 EPK 5.8 Flint 35.7 Frit 3124 10.5 +Zircopax 1 +Bentonite 2 +Epsom salts 0.6 Use 50 stain/50 frit over. Add CMC gum soln. for better brushing and harder raw surface. Thanks Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 I have used this. It is fairly stiff. It works best applying overglaze colors on top of the glaze. They stay brighter that way. Use start or hairspray to stiffen the glaze before applying overglaze. use Linda's recipe of stain and frit or gerstley borate for the overglaze. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 For the strangeness that I am up to, the colorant will need to be part of the glaze, not on top of it. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 no. majollica uses overglaze as a rule. The brush work is what makes it so recognizable.By imbedding your colorants into a glaze you may lose the stiffness. You'll need a clear/transparent glaze which may not be stiff just by it's characteristics. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 The problem is, I'm not really doing majolica as it is normally conceived. I was just looking in the majolica glazes thinking they would be the closest to what I need. I think I'm just going to have to run a zillion test tiles to sort out what I'm looking for. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Johnson Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 ...easy way if your just experimenting with ideas is to try something commercial like. Laguna Versa Glaze White MS301 I've had good luck with it experimenting with majolica idea. Takes other Versa colors well, cobalt oxide wash and scratching. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 I'm not really doing majolica. I was just looking at that set of glazes thinking I would find something that didn't move and might be very stiff. I got the ideas work out if I can find the glaze to do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 BTW When I first looked at your pics I thought I was looking in a mirror... It is so much my likeness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 doc, i use a white glaze that does not move. sorry, i do not understand the word "stiff" as a descriptor of a glaze so i do not know if you are interested in the recipe or not. let me know. in re-reading your original post i see that you are asking for a clear glaze. the recipe i mentioned is a clear base to which i add zircopax to make it white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Yes, I would be interested in the glaze recipe. Thanks Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 doc, this is from George and Nancy Wettlaufer's great book "getting into pots". page 127 has lots of great glazes that might work on your clay. extra shiny clear cone 6 soda spar 40 whiting 20 ball clay (i use c&c) 10 zinc oxide 5 silica (i use 325) 20 yes, i know it is 95 not 100 my personal addition is bentonite,2% if you want to make it white, use 20% zircopax. on my white clay, the white is blinding. there are some empty bowls in my gallery that show how stroke & coat colors work on top of the white. the flowers are applied with cut foam rubber teardrop shapes and repeated to form petals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Thanks that looks good. I will give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docweathers Posted February 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 On 9/25/2016 at 3:27 PM, Marcia Selsor said: Linda Arbuckle on tue 2 jul 96 Richard Burkett on tue 22 oct 96 This one quoted above by Marcia works very well. It will hold a very sharp edged piped shape at: ^6 oxidation. I made one modification I substituted FF 3134 1 to 1 for the gerstley borate. I also found that if you want even stiffer adding up to 20% alumina hydrate will make it very stiff when it is mat finish at that point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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