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Low Fire White Clay Body Recipe For Commercial Glazes


arcadiax

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Hi all,

 

I am inquiring on if anyone out there knows of a stable, great all around low fire, white clay recipe (Or commercially sold pre-mixed brand) that is great for slip casting.

 

I am still relatively new to the world of ceramics and most of the journey so far has been a hit and miss for me along with searching for budget deals in equipment and material. I have purchased, in the last couple months, batches of little cans of old used and new Duncan crystal tones and various other commercial glazes that are for low fire between cone 06-04.

 

My wares are not for food so safety issue is not a huge concern to me. My speciality is in 3D mold fabrication and making things out of ceramics is just a huge bonus passion of mine.

 

In another thread, I had initially thought I was dealing with shivering problems (Based on the digital fire recipe that i had used), but a kind gentlemen (Very active on the forum, thanks Nerd!) told me I was in fact dealing with scaling, due to the lack of frit in my clay so my glazes had literally nothing to bond to.

 

My old recipe - https://digitalfire....recipe_250.html - that I had found on digital fire called for 50% talc and 50% ball clay along with 0.1% soda ash and 0.2-0.4% sodium silicate. As you can see, I am still unfamiliar with materials so half I just following what is written on the net and other half is by trial and error. i am feeling very fortunate nothing has burned down yet.

 

A new recipe by Joel - http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramics-monthly/article/unity-form-and-surface-a-new-approach-to-fritware/ - provided to me looks like a great overall recipe. I am just unsure if that recipe is good for slip casting although someone mentioned if I took out the plasticity (Bentonite) in the equation, it should be good for slip casting. I do have all the materials ready to go for Joel's recipe. 

 

So, I am open to all recipes that people think may be good for my glazes, adjustments to Joel's recipe so I do not have to spend too much money buying whole new materials, or if I must (Which is fine) simply provide me with any new recipes that you feel is great for this application of low-fire white slip cast body.

 

Just in case if anyone thinks I am applying my glazes too thick...I do spray my glazes on and than apply the crystals later.

 

I am an empty cup and am open to all help and suggestions.

 

Thank you for reading my thread!!!

 

- Steven

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Suggesting a commercial clay body would be easier if you stated your location.

 

Hi bciske,

 

Thanks for viewing and replying to my thread.

 

I am located in Vancouver, BC, Canada. I visit Greenbarn in Surrey - outside of Vancouver - as they are our only ceramics related store within the greater vancouver regional district.

 

I do go down to the states sometimes - to Washington - so ordering and having it shipped to my mailbox forwarding address down in Washington is not a problem. 

 

I can also visit Seattle if they have more selection, as I think there is also a big Ceramics store down there as well.

 

Please advise if you know of any great commercial mixes suitable for my low-fire application bciske. Thanks a bunch and feel free to ask me for anymore information that may help you help me ^_____^;;

 

- Steven

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Actually there is another place in the Vancouver area, http://www.totallyceramics.com/ They make their own slipcast wares to sell, (also sell bisque) upstairs is their production area. They have an extensive low fire glaze selection plus the materials for slipcasting. Their website sucks, they don't have most of the stuff they carry listed there. This is their new location, been there about 5 years or so but have been around for ages in their old place. This would be my first spot to go for slip casting supplies in this area.

 

Greenbarn carries Laguna Whitestar casting slip ^04, page 10 on this link http://www.greenbarn.com/PDFs/A_CLAYS%20and%20SLIPS%201_10.pdf

 

In Seattle there is a large ceramics place Seattle Pottery Supply, then about 30 minutes south is Tacoma Clay Art. SPS has a wider range than Tacoma but I find the people more knowledgable in Tacoma.

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Yay more Canadians! Plainsman does offer any of its boxed clay as a dry mix option in a 50 lb bag too. You should be able to order it through Greenbarn, or I know some people in BC shop at Ceramics Canada in Calgary to avoid PST. As you've already been advised, make sure the mix you get is the bentonite-free version.

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Actually there is another place in the Vancouver area, http://www.totallyceramics.com/ They make their own slipcast wares to sell, (also sell bisque) upstairs is their production area. They have an extensive low fire glaze selection plus the materials for slipcasting. Their website sucks, they don't have most of the stuff they carry listed there. This is their new location, been there about 5 years or so but have been around for ages in their old place. This would be my first spot to go for slip casting supplies in this area.

 

Greenbarn carries Laguna Whitestar casting slip ^04, page 10 on this link http://www.greenbarn.com/PDFs/A_CLAYS%20and%20SLIPS%201_10.pdf

 

In Seattle there is a large ceramics place Seattle Pottery Supply, then about 30 minutes south is Tacoma Clay Art. SPS has a wider range than Tacoma but I find the people more knowledgable in Tacoma.

 

Min, again big thanks for replying to my thread. I will take a look at both the store you mentioned and also the Whitestar casting slip. 

 

For the whitestar, have you tried it? How does it perform, is it an overall good commercial mix?

 

I will give the other store a call and ask them about what kind of low fire casting slips they have as it doesn't seem their website is up to date lol...

 

Also, thanks for letting me know about Tacoma, I did not know they had a store there as well. Which is bigger Tacoma or Seattle?

 

Thanks Min.

 

You might also check the Clay Arts Center in Tacoma. Website: http://www.clayartcenter.net

 

Hi Fred,

 

Thanks for the link, I will definitely check it out.

 

- Steven

 

Yay more Canadians! Plainsman does offer any of its boxed clay as a dry mix option in a 50 lb bag too. You should be able to order it through Greenbarn, or I know some people in BC shop at Ceramics Canada in Calgary to avoid PST. As you've already been advised, make sure the mix you get is the bentonite-free version.

 

Haha, yes another "Canucks" here lol...j/k only us in Van.

 

I would like to ask if you have any experience or if you've ever directly ordered from Plainsman Diesel? Do they have store fronts or over the counter sales or do they only deal in wholesale distributions? I will have to phone in of course and order from them if they have something of this sort as the drive is probably not economical for me :P.

 

Also, I have a question about clay chemistry - if you know the answer that's great, if not it's ok as well.

 

Question is, since Plainsman offers their clays in dry format 50 lb'er bags, do you know which low fire one works best for slip casting? Can they all be ordered without bentonite or only some specific ones? They currently have 9 low fire clay bodies and also out of the 5 casting bodies they have, White Talc Body is I think their only low fire one and closely resembles my digital fire recipe of 50% talc and 50% ball clay...

 

No pressure, I will send them an email later on but if you have experience, yes please let me know too Diesel.

 

Thanks!

 

- Steven

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Stephen:

 

7% talc

30% Frit 3124

12% Kona F4

25% EPK

25% # 6 tile

 

In this particular case, I would not be too concerned about using 1/2% macaloid because the #6 tile and the EPK are both kaolin: both having larger particle sizes than ball clays. #6 has a habit of wanting to clump unless some plasticity is present: which is why I think this potter added it to begin with./ If some ball clay addition was being used: then I could see foregoing macaloid (bentone) additions. Many studies equate plasticity as being related to green strength.

I made some minor alterations in the original recipe because I wanted to increase the magnesium, and keep higher calcium limits. Magnesium and calcium have both been proven to facilitate the fluxing abilities of sodium and potassium: found in the Kona F4. One European clay maker actually uses calcium in porcelain bodies to help with flocculation. Take a  2000 gram recipe for a test spin: only way you are going to find out if it works for you.

 

Nerd

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A new recipe by Joel - http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramics-monthly/article/unity-form-and-surface-a-new-approach-to-fritware/ - provided to me looks like a great overall recipe. I am just unsure if that recipe is good for slip casting although someone mentioned if I took out the plasticity (Bentonite) in the equation, it should be good for slip casting. I do have all the materials ready to go for Joel's recipe. 

 

 

Be aware that this is not a typical low fire white body. This is a vitrified body, unlike your typical talc body which remains porous. It may affect how your glazes turn out, if you've been using some already on a typical low fire white body. As far as I know, no commercial clay suppliers make a vitrified low fire white body, just the basic talc bodies. There's quite a price difference between a ball clay & talc body and the fritted body.

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I have heard of people ordering from Plainsman directly, but usually only in larger amounts. That doesn't mean they don't do it though. Email and ask. They've even been known to answer their phone, if you want to talk to a real human.

 

I don't have a lot of casting experience, except for one semester in college. But the reason the digitalfire recipe is the same as the casting slip from Plainsman is that Tony Hanson is the creator of Digitalfire and the formulator at Plainsman. I can't speak for every clay body being available without bentonite, but I believe they make most of the light-firing bodies available as casting slip. From what I remember (and if anyone knows different, please speak up), as long as the original formula doesn't have bentonite to start with, or any red clay, it should theoretically work as a casting slip. Plainsman makes all their clays available as dry bags, mostly because if you don't have to ship water, it's cheaper. Usually the 50 lb bag is similar in price to a box of the same type, but once you add the water, you have more clay. It also makes it easy to make it into slip for various purposes.

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I think this is getting way more complicated than it needs to be.


 


Totally Ceramics does slip casting with low fire white clay, they are local, they have years of experience, I would just go in and talk to them.


 


Greenbarn can order in anything from Plainsman, they are one of their distributors. 


 


Seattle Pottery Supply is a much larger store than Tacoma Clay Arts Center but I'm guessing they both carry only a few casting slips. Both good places, SPS is usually a bit less expensive than Tacoma but I find Tacoma staff are more helpful. Nope, I haven't used that Laguna slip.


 


A vitrified body, like what Joel posted, is not necessary for the sculptural work you are doing, will cost a lot more to make and bring far more variables into play. I'm sure it has possibilities as would Nerd's recipe but do you really need to start experimenting with it when you are new to all this?


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Stephen:

 

7% talc

30% Frit 3124

12% Kona F4

25% EPK

25% # 6 tile

 

In this particular case, I would not be too concerned about using 1/2% macaloid because the #6 tile and the EPK are both kaolin: both having larger particle sizes than ball clays. #6 has a habit of wanting to clump unless some plasticity is present: which is why I think this potter added it to begin with./ If some ball clay addition was being used: then I could see foregoing macaloid (bentone) additions. Many studies equate plasticity as being related to green strength.

I made some minor alterations in the original recipe because I wanted to increase the magnesium, and keep higher calcium limits. Magnesium and calcium have both been proven to facilitate the fluxing abilities of sodium and potassium: found in the Kona F4. One European clay maker actually uses calcium in porcelain bodies to help with flocculation. Take a  2000 gram recipe for a test spin: only way you are going to find out if it works for you.

 

Nerd

 

Hi again Nerd!

 

Yes, Joel's recipe is something I will definitely be testing out. I am also just placing this new thread out there as to save time and do different body tests concurrently (To save on electricity as well). Thanks so much for altering Joel's recipe for me. The Kona F4, I think that is a new material right? I will have to go buy it but that's ok, I can make it one trip in next week's trip.

 

- Steven

 

 

A new recipe by Joel - http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramics-monthly/article/unity-form-and-surface-a-new-approach-to-fritware/ - provided to me looks like a great overall recipe. I am just unsure if that recipe is good for slip casting although someone mentioned if I took out the plasticity (Bentonite) in the equation, it should be good for slip casting. I do have all the materials ready to go for Joel's recipe. 

 

 

Be aware that this is not a typical low fire white body. This is a vitrified body, unlike your typical talc body which remains porous. It may affect how your glazes turn out, if you've been using some already on a typical low fire white body. As far as I know, no commercial clay suppliers make a vitrified low fire white body, just the basic talc bodies. There's quite a price difference between a ball clay & talc body and the fritted body.

 

 

Hi Neil,

 

Thank you for dropping into this thread!

 

And yes, my apologies, I should have been more clear. I am actually looking for any sort of recipe as long as it is low fire and a good general fit with my commercial Duncan glazes that I had purchased in batches. They're the old little jars of Crystal tones and etc from maybe 25-40 years ago. I purchased them off of various retired ceramicists around my area over time and some are used while most are new despite their "Age".

 

This thread began because of a previous thread I had made seeking help with my commercial glazes that I thought were shivering off of my Digital Fire low fire talc body recipe. But instead, explained by Nerd within this and my other thread, I was in fact dealing with scaling due to my low fire body having nearly no flux for the glaze to bond into so my glazes were falling off while taking little chunks of the clay with it from behind. This only occurred with the glossy glazes as the matte or some semi-matte ones did ok.

 

I think I mentioned low fire white body clay later on in this thread because I was thinking about Greenbarn (The ceramic store in my city and their resources on website) describing their low fire clays as some being white body and talcy. 

 

To clarify, I am seeking any recipe as long as it is well reviewed, tried and reasonably true, for low fire applications that are good with most commercial low fire glazes - or at the very least Duncan's line. I don't want my 300 little bottles to go to waste although I do understand Ceramics is all about experimentation. I am not making food safe items.

 

I hope this clarified some of it up for you and gave you more room to offer any suggestions or recipes.

 

Thanks!

 

- Steven

 

I have heard of people ordering from Plainsman directly, but usually only in larger amounts. That doesn't mean they don't do it though. Email and ask. They've even been known to answer their phone, if you want to talk to a real human.

 

I don't have a lot of casting experience, except for one semester in college. But the reason the digitalfire recipe is the same as the casting slip from Plainsman is that Tony Hanson is the creator of Digitalfire and the formulator at Plainsman. I can't speak for every clay body being available without bentonite, but I believe they make most of the light-firing bodies available as casting slip. From what I remember (and if anyone knows different, please speak up), as long as the original formula doesn't have bentonite to start with, or any red clay, it should theoretically work as a casting slip. Plainsman makes all their clays available as dry bags, mostly because if you don't have to ship water, it's cheaper. Usually the 50 lb bag is similar in price to a box of the same type, but once you add the water, you have more clay. It also makes it easy to make it into slip for various purposes.

 

Hi Diesel,

 

Yes, I think you are correct. I recently took up a little reading on slip casting formulation and they did mention Bentonite and Iron in the red clays are not best friends for casting, although I can't remember right now why.

 

I will keep note of what you said and contact Plainsman. Keeping all my options open. I plan to start doing all tests later in October.

 

- Steven

 

I think this is getting way more complicated than it needs to be.

 

Totally Ceramics does slip casting with low fire white clay, they are local, they have years of experience, I would just go in and talk to them.

 

Greenbarn can order in anything from Plainsman, they are one of their distributors. Some special orders have minimum quantities requirements. They can also order in from Seattle Pottery Supply or Tacoma Clay Arts Center as they buy from them also, they receive stock from them less frequently than from Plainsman though so it might be a bit of a wait to get stuff but saves you the drive to Seattle or Tacoma. If you want to order through Greenbarn then talk to Craig there.

 

Seattle Pottery Supply is a much larger store than Tacoma Clay Arts Center but I'm guessing they both carry only a few casting slips. I don't know what else you are looking for, they are both good places, SPS is usually a bit less expensive than Tacoma but Tacoma staff are more helpful.

 

A vitrified body, like what Joel posted, is not necessary for the sculptural work you are doing, will cost a lot more to make and bring far more variables into play.

 

Hi Min,

 

Yes, again my apologies. I should be saying I am not seeking vitrification, but just anything that will work reasonably good at low fire and with commercial glazes that I have which are the older line of Duncan crystal tones, speckle tones etc. I just do not want to encounter any scaling issues again. This is my biggest headache thus far.

 

I do remember when I first began my ceramic journey, I went and received free 5 gallon buckets of recycled clay from a ceramic studio. This was a couple years back at the very start. I would turn them all into very soupy slip, filtered them through a mess, and than turned them directly into slip for casting. They casted reasonably well with a little addition of Darvan. This was all purely experimental and just sort of winging it although I think of it now being unsafe.

 

I did not understand anything at that time and was just trying to save money and experiment. The clays I received were all commercial mixes - navajo, b-mix, grey etc - I do not remember all their names but I do know they were mid fire range clays for around cone 6. There was also one that resembled porcelain-like character.

 

I bisqued all of them to cone 02 thinking they were low fire clays and than applied low fire commercial glazes. The school assistant at that time did not tell me much, was just happy to get rid of those clays.

 

Surprisingly, the glazes all turned out reasonably well - no scaling although there were pinhole issues in some - which now I think is due to things not burning cleanly because these were higher fire clay bodies. The red clays worked superbly well with my semi-matte glazes however.

 

Sorry for going slightly off topic, but back to what you were saying about Joel's recipe. Do you think it's not worth trying out? I have pretty much all the materials ready for it. I think it's a fritware body so it should make more sense in terms of solving my lack of flux issue, which was the main cause of my scaling problem right?

 

I will give the place a call, the one you mentioned but these forums are something I will stay in touch with because you and all guys here are just very wonderful in your tips and all. 

 

Ok, thanks again Min and please share anything that you feel may be useful to a noob like me :P

 

- Steven

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Stephen:

 

7% talc

30% Frit 3124

12% Kona F4

25% EPK

25% # 6 tile

 

In this particular case, I would not be too concerned about using 1/2% macaloid because the #6 tile and the EPK are both kaolin: both having larger particle sizes than ball clays. #6 has a habit of wanting to clump unless some plasticity is present: which is why I think this potter added it to begin with./ If some ball clay addition was being used: then I could see foregoing macaloid (bentone) additions. Many studies equate plasticity as being related to green strength.

I made some minor alterations in the original recipe because I wanted to increase the magnesium, and keep higher calcium limits. Magnesium and calcium have both been proven to facilitate the fluxing abilities of sodium and potassium: found in the Kona F4. One European clay maker actually uses calcium in porcelain bodies to help with flocculation. Take a  2000 gram recipe for a test spin: only way you are going to find out if it works for you.

 

Nerd

 

Hi again Nerd!

 

Yes, Joel's recipe is something I will definitely be testing out. I am also just placing this new thread out there as to save time and do different body tests concurrently (To save on electricity as well). Thanks so much for altering Joel's recipe for me. The Kona F4, I think that is a new material right? I will have to go buy it but that's ok, I can make it one trip in next week's trip.

 

- Steven

 

 

A new recipe by Joel - http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramics-monthly/article/unity-form-and-surface-a-new-approach-to-fritware/ - provided to me looks like a great overall recipe. I am just unsure if that recipe is good for slip casting although someone mentioned if I took out the plasticity (Bentonite) in the equation, it should be good for slip casting. I do have all the materials ready to go for Joel's recipe. 

 

 

Be aware that this is not a typical low fire white body. This is a vitrified body, unlike your typical talc body which remains porous. It may affect how your glazes turn out, if you've been using some already on a typical low fire white body. As far as I know, no commercial clay suppliers make a vitrified low fire white body, just the basic talc bodies. There's quite a price difference between a ball clay & talc body and the fritted body.

 

 

Hi Neil,

 

Thank you for dropping into this thread!

 

And yes, my apologies, I should have been more clear. I am actually looking for any sort of recipe as long as it is low fire and a good general fit with my commercial Duncan glazes that I had purchased in batches. They're the old little jars of Crystal tones and etc from maybe 25-40 years ago. I purchased them off of various retired ceramicists around my area over time and some are used while most are new despite their "Age".

 

This thread began because of a previous thread I had made seeking help with my commercial glazes that I thought were shivering off of my Digital Fire low fire talc body recipe. But instead, explained by Nerd within this and my other thread, I was in fact dealing with scaling due to my low fire body having nearly no flux for the glaze to bond into so my glazes were falling off while taking little chunks of the clay with it from behind. This only occurred with the glossy glazes as the matte or some semi-matte ones did ok.

 

I think I mentioned low fire white body clay later on in this thread because I was thinking about Greenbarn (The ceramic store in my city and their resources on website) describing their low fire clays as some being white body and talcy. 

 

To clarify, I am seeking any recipe as long as it is well reviewed, tried and reasonably true, for low fire applications that are good with most commercial low fire glazes - or at the very least Duncan's line. I don't want my 300 little bottles to go to waste although I do understand Ceramics is all about experimentation. I am not making food safe items.

 

I hope this clarified some of it up for you and gave you more room to offer any suggestions or recipes.

 

Thanks!

 

- Steven

 

I have heard of people ordering from Plainsman directly, but usually only in larger amounts. That doesn't mean they don't do it though. Email and ask. They've even been known to answer their phone, if you want to talk to a real human.

 

I don't have a lot of casting experience, except for one semester in college. But the reason the digitalfire recipe is the same as the casting slip from Plainsman is that Tony Hanson is the creator of Digitalfire and the formulator at Plainsman. I can't speak for every clay body being available without bentonite, but I believe they make most of the light-firing bodies available as casting slip. From what I remember (and if anyone knows different, please speak up), as long as the original formula doesn't have bentonite to start with, or any red clay, it should theoretically work as a casting slip. Plainsman makes all their clays available as dry bags, mostly because if you don't have to ship water, it's cheaper. Usually the 50 lb bag is similar in price to a box of the same type, but once you add the water, you have more clay. It also makes it easy to make it into slip for various purposes.

 

Hi Diesel,

 

Yes, I think you are correct. I recently took up a little reading on slip casting formulation and they did mention Bentonite and Iron in the red clays are not best friends for casting, although I can't remember right now why.

 

I will keep note of what you said and contact Plainsman. Keeping all my options open. I plan to start doing all tests later in October.

 

- Steven

 

I think this is getting way more complicated than it needs to be.

 

Totally Ceramics does slip casting with low fire white clay, they are local, they have years of experience, I would just go in and talk to them.

 

Greenbarn can order in anything from Plainsman, they are one of their distributors. Some special orders have minimum quantities requirements. They can also order in from Seattle Pottery Supply or Tacoma Clay Arts Center as they buy from them also, they receive stock from them less frequently than from Plainsman though so it might be a bit of a wait to get stuff but saves you the drive to Seattle or Tacoma. If you want to order through Greenbarn then talk to Craig there.

 

Seattle Pottery Supply is a much larger store than Tacoma Clay Arts Center but I'm guessing they both carry only a few casting slips. I don't know what else you are looking for, they are both good places, SPS is usually a bit less expensive than Tacoma but Tacoma staff are more helpful.

 

A vitrified body, like what Joel posted, is not necessary for the sculptural work you are doing, will cost a lot more to make and bring far more variables into play.

 

Hi Min,

 

Yes, again my apologies. I should be saying I am not seeking vitrification, but just anything that will work reasonably good at low fire and with commercial glazes that I have which are the older line of Duncan crystal tones, speckle tones etc. I just do not want to encounter any scaling issues again. This is my biggest headache thus far.

 

I do remember when I first began my ceramic journey, I went and received free 5 gallon buckets of recycled clay from a ceramic studio. This was a couple years back at the very start. I would turn them all into very soupy slip, filtered them through a mess, and than turned them directly into slip for casting. They casted reasonably well with a little addition of Darvan. This was all purely experimental and just sort of winging it although I think of it now being unsafe.

 

I did not understand anything at that time and was just trying to save money and experiment. The clays I received were all commercial mixes - navajo, b-mix, grey etc - I do not remember all their names but I do know they were mid fire range clays for around cone 6. There was also one that resembled porcelain-like character.

 

I bisqued all of them to cone 02 thinking they were low fire clays and than applied low fire commercial glazes. The school assistant at that time did not tell me much, was just happy to get rid of those clays.

 

Surprisingly, the glazes all turned out reasonably well - no scaling although there were pinhole issues in some - which now I think is due to things not burning cleanly because these were higher fire clay bodies. The red clays worked superbly well with my semi-matte glazes however.

 

Sorry for going slightly off topic, but back to what you were saying about Joel's recipe. Do you think it's not worth trying out? I have pretty much all the materials ready for it. I think it's a fritware body so it should make more sense in terms of solving my lack of flux issue, which was the main cause of my scaling problem right?

 

I will give the place a call, the one you mentioned but these forums are something I will stay in touch with because you and all guys here are just very wonderful in your tips and all. 

 

Ok, thanks again Min and please share anything that you feel may be useful to a noob like me :P

 

- Steven

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Stephen:

 

7% talc

30% Frit 3124

12% Kona F4

25% EPK

25% # 6 tile

 

In this particular case, I would not be too concerned about using 1/2% macaloid because the #6 tile and the EPK are both kaolin: both having larger particle sizes than ball clays. #6 has a habit of wanting to clump unless some plasticity is present: which is why I think this potter added it to begin with./ If some ball clay addition was being used: then I could see foregoing macaloid (bentone) additions. Many studies equate plasticity as being related to green strength.

I made some minor alterations in the original recipe because I wanted to increase the magnesium, and keep higher calcium limits. Magnesium and calcium have both been proven to facilitate the fluxing abilities of sodium and potassium: found in the Kona F4. One European clay maker actually uses calcium in porcelain bodies to help with flocculation. Take a  2000 gram recipe for a test spin: only way you are going to find out if it works for you.

 

Nerd

 

Hey Nerd,

 

I called in and it was solved. I guess Kona F4 was replaced by Minspar 200 so I already have everything I need.   :D

 

They also mentioned a L213 Casting Slip from Plainsman - dry format just add deflocculant. Ordered a bag of that in too.

 

Nerd, thank you, you've been awesome. I see you're also super nerdy and scientific in your approaches to glaze and clay. Are you a chemist or ceramics technician / engineer?

 

Anyways, I am happy to have met you in this forum helping out everyone. Do you have a website with your own personal works?

 

I'll post back later in a couple weeks as it's going to take 2-3 weeks to have that L213 shipped in.

 

Thanks Nerd for your guidance.

 

- Steven

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