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dazzlepottery

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About dazzlepottery

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 10/27/1990

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  • Website URL
    http://www.danabechert.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Lancaster, PA
  1. Bottoms Chipping During Firing

    What should I use to grind shelves?
  2. Wheel Stuck On, Not The Pedal

    Just to follow up, I spoke with AMACO about this issue and Mark was correct about the part that needs to be replaced. If the wheel spins at top speed with no control from the pedal, the part that needs replacing is the Control D-30 110V CXC HI Speed. AMACO said this is one of the most commonly replaced items on these older wheels (pre 2000) so they may need to be replaced in time. They also said that they can be zapped by a power surge if you wheel is left plugged in. Another note, be careful when troubleshooting this issue, if you strain the little red and blue dials in the foot pedal they will need to be replaced as well. They should only turn about 3/4 of a turn when working properly, never over turn them. Thanks Mark!
  3. Thanks everyone! I haven't assembled the frame yet but I'll rethink if weights are necessary. I was more worried that someone could bump into one of the poles and cause a disaster. Hopefully it will be sturdy enough that it won't be an issue!
  4. The other day I heard a weird constant noise coming from my studio, I thought it was one of my many vents or fans left on and didn't think much about it. The next day I found my wheel to be left on (oops) and spinning at top speed. I rushed over to fix the pedal but it was in the off position. Today I opened up the pedal to make the adjustment to the little plastic lever, I assumed this was the problem, having dealt with this flimsy contraption many times, but the lever seems to be working properly. No matter which position it's in the wheel goes top speed. Anyone had this happen before? Is there another area that regulates speed besides the pedal that I could check? It's a Brent CXC from the late 80's
  5. Hi! I'm doing my first big craft show in a few weeks and I'm trying to figure out some aspects of my display. I've designed a pipe and drape system from old copper pipes and was thinking i could use big(ish) terra cotta vase shapes filled with concrete to house the bottoms of my legs and act as weights. Has anyone had experience filling a ceramic form with concrete? Does it crack or cause any problems? I'd also love some feedback on trade show set-up tips. Thanks, Dana
  6. Bottoms Chipping During Firing

    I just buy pre-mixed powdered kiln wash but I also have alumina hydrate so I'll try adding a bit of that to the mixture. I don't normally wax bottoms, but I'll give that a try too to see if it helps. I usually wipe the bottoms plus at least 1/4 inch up to the bottom. The black signature is underglaze so that isn't the issue. Do I need to apply fresh kiln wash every glaze firing?
  7. Bubbles In Black Stoneware

    Thanks everybody. I will try a bisque soak. The ones that became more bloated were usually stacked deeply in the bisque firing, which confused me because some things came out fine and some were horribly bloated! Thanks again for the info.
  8. I have been having a strange issue with my Cone 6 Black Stoneware Clay from Standard (266). It gets these big cracking bubbles upon glaze firing. I bought this clay to marble with Porcelain (Standard 365) because it had a similar shrink rate. The marbled pieces came out SUPER bubbly, really horrible. I thought it was just poor clay preparation on my part because of the mixing of the two. However it has been happening with pots I make solely out of the Black Stoneware. I prepare this clay the same way I do all my other clay bodies and never really have this issue otherwise. Has anyone else had this problem with this clay? Any advice?
  9. I have been having an issue with the bottoms of my pots getting big chips out of them during a glaze firing. The chipped parts are not really stuck the the kiln shelf, they brush off easily, so I don't think it's a glazing issue. Normally I dip glaze pots with clear and wipe off the bottom with a sponge. I wonder if a little residual glaze is still there and sticking? This is happening with my cone 6 porcelain (standard 365) and a black stoneware clay. Both have a high shrink rate. I do use kiln wash. Do I need to apply kiln wash for every firing? It seems like that must be the issue but on some shelves the wash is getting so thick that it flakes off. Should I be removing the excess and re applying fresh kiln wash?
  10. Hi There, I'm working on some porcelain stud earrings and refrigerator magnets. What is the best glue to use to attach ceramic to non ceramic like metal and the magnets. In the past I have tried superglue, which didn't work at all and hot glue, which works but tends to pop off unpredictably on glazed pieces. I would like to be able to glue glazed ^6 porcelain. Thanks!
  11. Propping Kiln Lid

    Thank you all for your responses! I only wish I had joined here earlier and known all along that I didn't need to be propping because it was a lot of trouble. ( I usually fire overnight, so I'd have to wake up to close it). I like the idea of switching my broken lid with my floor piece. what is the best way to attach a new handle to the kiln brick with the metal band?
  12. Propping Kiln Lid

    When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
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