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clay lover

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Everything posted by clay lover

  1. sounds like you are dancing up the Yellow Brick Road!
  2. I did my first foray into pouring plaster into rigid forms to make hump molds yesterday. I use 4 small dishes from the junque store that were shapes we wanted to use. Two were sloped sided, two were rather straight sided. None of them had undercuts or ridges on the sides that would prevent the set up plaster from coming out later. I used mineral oil, brushed on to all 4. Today, the two slanted sided ones came out with a bit of upside down tapping. The straight sided ones WILL NOT RELEASE! What now? The forms that came out are cool to the touch, still feel damp, but solid. I used the formula that Gypsum plaster provided, and followed all mixing , pouring instructions.
  3. I often see forms I like and wonder if I can make them, it's a way to challenge myself to keep growing. By the time I am done with a piece, it rarely looks like what set me thinking in the first place.
  4. Steven, yes, they were fine. Chilly, it was just poured into some junque store cassarol dishes that had pretty straight sides, thus making getting them out tricker. Nothing special. I think I will now try adding 2nd layer to increase depth of hump mold options. Book says, make some deep scratches in the plaster first, them add fresh pour on top of it. we will see. I WILL use better release agent this time!
  5. on the topic of keeping cleaner as you work, I throw with slip more than water. When I want a tool, I always end up reaching for it with clay covered hands and spreading the slip all over the tools in my storage jar, looking for the one I want. I'm thinking I need a 2nd small bucket of CLEAN water for hands before I reach for a the tools. I am trying to redefine what 'clean ' means in my studio.. recently I got a sheet of that thin board from Lowes that you might use for lining cheap shower stalls, slick, WHITE and water resistant. I covered my main work table that the wheel sit beside and where I put the blls of clay I will be throwing, used tools , towels etc. Now, I can't pretend I have cleaned up, the white surface screams 'No, you didn't" no excuses now,
  6. You have NOTHING in these photos to be ashamed of. They look tidy, well balanced and well glazed. You are in a great starting place. as to the event being for beginners, you can stand out in a crowd through presentation. keep at it. I agree with the posted who said only take what you feel good about, so that when some people don't chose your work you can say, "It wasn't their taste" instead of feeling that work isn't good enough.
  7. your buyers will never see you work like you do. Pieces that I really don't like are often the first to sell. I don't do a 2nd s table, I think it looks cheezy. if they are 2nds, I hammer them. that said, your buyers mostly know NOTHING about pottery and don't know what a 2nd is. Something obvious, like a crack or glaze craters, I would not offer it for sale in the the first place, maybe give away to studio visitors, or experiments in reglazing, but never for sale. Ditch the colored table drapes, go to Lowe's and get painters drapes in neutral muslim, or white flat bed sheets, but no color. Pack in plastic if at all possible, rain will make cardboard fall apart, even if you just sit it down on wet ground. be ready to explain what 'hand made' means and just smile , no matter what anyone says. They probably have never made a pot. and don't realize how foolish they sound. If you cover your expenses, consider it a good day and learn from it. have plenty of change, take a cooler for food, a good sale is one where there is no time to go get anything to eat, or to eat it! take a picture of your final set up before show opens, to learn from for next time, there will be a next time!
  8. VICTORY! as Marcia suggested, I heated them, by putting them in a skillet with boiling water around them, until the plaster was hot. After removing them from the water bath, they would not budge, so I figure I would start this morning on trying to chip the plaster out and start over. I had drilled holes and set screws nto the plaster earlier, trying to pull the form out, unsucessfully. this morning, I pulled on the screws in the now cooled plater and both of them released.!! thanks for all the suggestions. Now to pour more , with better release agent
  9. Thanks, cold, freezer, did nothing.
  10. nothing has worked. I even drilled into the plaster and set screws to pull on it with. Guess I get to try and chip it out and repour.
  11. are you referring to the seam like places where the clay has to fold over its self to go down into the round mold ?
  12. I'm going to wait a day or 2 and see if anything changes. The mineral oil suggestion came from a book called "Mold Making and skip casting",. I thought about drilling a small screw into it for pulling force. . I'm not in a hurry and would rather not break the forms until all else fails, so we'll see.
  13. How would you handle this teaching situation? I put this in the business forum because teaching classes is a large part of my pottery income. I hold small group classes in my home studio. several of my students have been with me for a few years. One of my regulars brought in a buddy of hers who has not had any hands on pottery experience. She was looking at her results from a handbuilding class with me. She was not happy with 100% of the pieces she finished the last workshop, although a couple of them were quite nice, and now after her 2nd workshop in which one of her pieces was spectacularly sucessfull, but one was not what she 'expected it to look like glazed', she expressed how dissatisfied she was with the results. I thought the pieces was a good results for a person who has only glazed 5 pieces ever. One of my experienced students offered that the test tiles don't always show exactly what the dipped piece will look like and that she often didn't get exactly what she was expecting, since she is always doing something different and uning different glazes each time. I offered that there were many variables and she was just getting started. She came back with, "Or, you are lying to us about what the glazes will look like". someone in the group said "What???? !!!" and she repeated the same , that I might be lying. The room was silent for a moment, I said nothing while I gathered my thoughts, then said, " When you have some experience, you might be able to understand this better" and went on with the class. I have heard that this woman has a reputation for being verbally aggressive in this way. Now , days later, I sort of wishing I had ripped her a new one. I give everything I have to my students and feel I have not done a good job as their instructor if their works don't turn out well enough. We do group trips to pottery shows and sales, go to workshops , and several of my students have gone forward and built their own studios, with support from me going forward. What do you think? I insist my students play well together and everyone on the studio to feel welcome and safe to stumble through their own learning curve. How would you play this?
  14. I bought a stack of hand sized towels and a few bath sized from the overstock store in a light mud color! they don't show stains from the red clay and they look better.
  15. Recently there was a thread on how to manage sore hands and fingers and the combination of joint pain and wheel pottery. since that thread, I have come across something that is new to me and is helping a lot with my hands and fingers. My husband has been trying everything to avoid a knee replacement and his Dr. recommended a fabric brace with some invisible copper threading in it. He said it helped him , so I ordered a pair of that company"s open fingered gloves. I only wear then at night, but I can go to bed with throbbing pains and wake up with none. Hope it is OK to mention brands, they are Incrediwear, and they run large, I measured for the Large, but the medium is best for me. They are called "circulation gloves"
  16. Mark, these aren't quite like the compression gloves I tried, they are a soft gray knit, and don't seem different than light weight winter knitted cotton gloves, but there are fibers in them that do something that regular cotton gloves don't.
  17. clay lover


    I got the regular pedal ,have not tried the ssx. I can't imagine how you could spill every where, my throwing water bucket sits inside the splash pan so it is close. Something to consider, that I did not realize when I got the wheel, it is larger, longer than other brands by 1 1/2", from center of wheel to edge of pan where you sit, so there is more reach to do small works at the center of the wheel. I have long body, short arms and I is not ideal for me. When I realized the difference in that measurement over the Brent or Baily, the others I was considering, I was so happy with the pan and the pedal I just deal with it.
  18. clay lover

    pugmill - Bailey vs Peter Pugger

    pp needs to be full or the mass just spins, doesn't mix. I got SS so that when I wanted to sell it, it had a wide range of appeal, and I knew I wasn't going to empty it, yes it holds damp clay forever. if it is closed tight.
  19. Do any of you know how many firings, ^6 elec., you get before you need to replace the elements in your kiln? I have no idea and wonder. When you replace elements, do you replace relays every time?
  20. clay lover

    Measuring pot bottoms

    Needle tool holes,have,a,way of reappearing after glaze firing.
  21. clay lover


    Skutt has sweet foot pedal, very sensitive, that's the main reason I chose it. I have the removable 1 piece smooth molded pan. It is solid enough to brace my knees on, easy to take off , deep enough to catch most trimmings, with a raised guard added it catches everything. I lift it off and tip it into my pug mill, very light weight and smooth inside to clean. I am 67 and have no trouble handling it.
  22. clay lover

    Measuring pot bottoms

    I do this , using 2 hair pins that will stay in place on the chopstick, but can be adjusted for each pots, rather than making marks. Remember to set the pins at the bottom of the chopstick for accuracy. Then I trim out the very center at the desired depth, knowing I can go deeper as the bottom curves up out to the foot ring. .
  23. clay lover

    pugmill - Bailey vs Peter Pugger

    Very satisfied 25 lb Peter Pugger Stainless owner here, had it 8 years, no maintenance issues, good customer service in the learning phase. I wish I had gotten it sooner, the clay out of it is fabulouse for throwing and I have NO scraps around the studio. I chose the PP mainly for the large hopper opening , it's way easy to stuff clay in it in large hunks, and also because it is more compact in my small studio that the Bailey of the same capacity. Also spent more $$ for the Stainless, I have NEVER emptied it and cleaned it , when I want to change clays, since I use 4 different ones, I go to the next darker or the next lighter, it's very easy to reach in and do some half hearted chamber scraping out of hunks of remaining clay, then the first log out, I open the chamber, stuff it back in and mix a bit, easy change to next clay. I go from light buff to very dark speckeled this way, one step at a time. I don't try to change to white, I use very little white and will toss white scarps into a chamber full of buff and it just dissappers. larger amounts of white, I hand wedge and rebag
  24. clay lover

    Skull E-1 error question

    My E 1 on a Skutt 1027 was a relay, replaced all 3, it's firing fine.
  25. clay lover

    Error 1 on Olympic kilns with Bartlett

    just went through this, ran some tests, it's a Skutt KM with built in testing program, the element on the bottom was bad, replaced all 3, all good.

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