enbarro Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Hi, a friend of mine gave me an Evenheat kiln with a Perfect Fire digital controller. It hasn’t being used in many years. When I turned it on, the kiln started heating like it was on high and it wouldn’t respond to anything I pressed on the controller’s interface. I called Evenheat and was told by the person who answers the phone (not sure if a tech) that it was the relays. Replacing the controller, if also damaged, with a new one would cost $450+/- plus the cost of shipping the panel. When I opened the kiln the relays didn’t look burned out. I looked around the web and found this post: http://www.potters.org/subject44399.htm . The trick bellow seemed to get the controller working again. >>>Hold down the "SELECT" key, while turning the power switch on. The controller enters the programming mode, indicated by the top lamp flashing. <<<< I have a few questions and will also be thankful for any other information on how to use/repair the kiln. This controller doesn’t offer a multi segment ramping. Does anybody know how get around this limitation? I don’t need anything fancy; just want to be able to slow down the first 2 or 3 hours of the firing and then rocket fire the rest of the way. Also how do I check/ calibrate the thermocouple? I still plan on using a small cone on the shelf. Are there any other alternatives (specially cheaper ones) to sending the panel to the manufacturer? I have other kilns, so I don’t really need it. Still, it’ll be cool if I can make it work without spending much, because its 3.3cf is perfect for experimenting… Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Can the kiln be operated manually, if your going to slow fire and then fast fire it doesn't sound like you need a control panel. You need to use large cones in a cone pack, small cones are calibrated for a kiln setter. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 If a custom program isn't an option, then you can't do one. Old controllers have limitations. That particular model was discontinued in 1999. If the rest of the kiln is in good condition, it would be well worth the money to upgrade to a new controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 I would just run the "slow" program for 2 or 3 hours then restart it using the "fast" setting. (apologies if I'm over simplifying this ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enbarro Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Thanks for all the replies… No the kiln can’t be manually controlled… no l/m/h settings… The way I found to work around the single segment ramping is to programs one segment for the first 500 degrees and the enter another for the rest of the firing. Pretty easy and straight forward, like Min suggested, but the kiln doesn’t have a fast setting so you have to manually enter the number. The problem I have now is that the kiln is acting up again. When I turn it on it starts ramping the heat, not responding to the controller and making a buzzing sound that gets louder and louder until scared I throw the switch off. The turning it on while pressing the select button trick is not working any longer… Any ventures to guess what might be causing this? Anyone has any experience converting a digital kiln to a switch/sitter or exchanging the controller for a different one? Or know of any links with info on how to go about doing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Does the kiln heat right away when you plug it in, or just once the firing program starts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enbarro Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Not when I plug it in, but when I turn on the switch. Late last night and again just now I tried again and it worked correctly. Then again I've just kept it on for less than an hour. Don't know if unplugging the kiln when not in use makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 1. If they are all coming on and staying on and not following the program, then it's the controller and should be replaced. 2. If it's only one relay staying on, it's a sticky relay. That's assuming that all the relays are controlled by the same output on the controller. 3. If each relay is on its own output, then it could still be a controller issue. In that case you'll have to get a meter on it while the relay is stuck on, and see if the controller is signaling it to be on or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enbarro Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks Neil, the top and bottom elements glow and the two middle ones glow less but seem to be on as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks Neil, the top and bottom elements glow and the two middle ones glow less but seem to be on as well... The difference in glowing is likely due to graded elements, where the top and bottom run hotter to account for heat loss out the lid and floor. Your controller is probably bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enbarro Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Thanks, that's what I thought. When I get a chance l'll check for a loose connection just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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