Jump to content

Programing Evenheat Perfect Fire For Bisque


Fielding

Recommended Posts

I am considering the purchase of a used evenheat PF 1822 kiln, which I will primarily use to bisque fire stoneware work.  This kiln uses a perfect fire controller (I think it is a DTP-56DC-E Controller by Canadian Instrumentation).  The controller manual is not available to me.  Does anyone know if this can be programmed to safely ramp up the temp so I can drive out the water without breakage.  Does anyone know if a PDF doc of the manual or program guide is available?
 
Here is a photo of the kiln with someone holding the cord as the plug was cannibalized for some other use.  If I can bisque fire with this, I am willing to take the risk on this if the price is right.  I am also including another controller photo I found on the forum, which I think is identical.
 
Thanks.
Fielding

post-61937-0-08980700-1388602644_thumb.jpg

post-61937-0-31985100-1388602702_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt - the sample firing program - 204oC ramp, straight to 999oC - no in between ramping, no slow start etc. implies that this would be fine as a basic bisque program. Would you agree with that - my ware is always bone dry, but I bisque more slowly (100oC / hr ) to 600oC but am wondering if this is really necessary?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a bit reluctant to take the 'test to destruction' route Norm. I have already ascertained that the kiln is pretty fierce - even No 1 on the manual controller ramped at more than 200oC an hour. Prior to controller days I ramped at No 2 for 2 hrs then full to 04 for bisque - which never caused a bisque problem, but I've subsequently wondered if this bisquing rate could have had any impact on my glazing issues.

 

For the bisque, if I slow it down in the early stages, (e.g 100oC / hour as in various suggested programs), to be on the safe side, would it be wise just to do this to 300o C (getting through the 'steam' and cristobalite phases) or to 600o C to clear quartz inversion as well? You see - I HAVE read the PowerPoint - just clarifying bisque and glaze firing now!

 

Thanks for your time - are you getting any work done?

Celia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really sorry to hear that Norm. Hope you start to pick up soon so that you can enjoy your friend's visit.

 

I have no excuse other than procrastination. I should make the most of the winter, when I'm less than keen to get out on the golf course, and spend more time on my pottery. Bizarrely, when I'm really busy with other things, I often make the most of the the spare moments and get on with the ceramics, snatching the odd hour here and there, yet when I have more time (like now!) I put off getting going in the studio. I'm sure a psychologist would have something to say about it.

 

Wishing you a speedy recovery,

 

Celia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt - the sample firing program - 204oC ramp, straight to 999oC - no in between ramping, no slow start etc. implies that this would be fine as a basic bisque program. Would you agree with that - my ware is always bone dry, but I bisque more slowly (100oC / hr ) to 600oC but am wondering if this is really necessary?

From what I remember that controller didn't have much memory, so had a limited number of ramps per program. I think candeling or a slow start had to be a separate program, but I could be wrong.

A ramp of 204oC looked to fast to me so I never tried it, I haven’t experimented around much with different rates. After a 60min soak at about 80oC, I do the almost 150oC \ hr (300oF) to temp for bisque.

There are so many different firing schedules out there from manufacturers and potters, I find it confusing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Confusing? Tell me about it - no two manufacturers/potters seem to ever say the same thing. I find the whole trial and error thing tiresome - and expensive in both time and materials. I thought the 204o was rather steep to start off too.

 

Putting that program out as a sample firing (which is most likely to be followed by inexperienced potters, as more experienced ones would probably have their schedules sussed) is implicitly sending out a 'this is standard' message, when in reality could result in significant levels of failure.

 

Thanks for replying - reassuring that you've confirmed my own gut feeling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The steepness of the ramp is exactly what concerns me so much. 

 

I called Evenheat, and they were very pleasant.  The customer service person emailed a PDF manual of the kiln and the controller.  She also informed me that a RAMPMASTER II would interface with the Perfect Fire controller board if the old board did not work.  Cost for the upgrade:  about $400.  I found a website for a company which will actually repair bad circuit boards which are not actually fried.

 

All that being said, I am reconsidering.  I think an old-school manual kiln may be the better way to go for firing to bisque.  My local pottery supply store owner told me that it is cheaper to replace the electronic relays, rather than the mechanical ones on older kilns.  I think the difference is only a few dollars.  Considering the complications of programming an electronic controller and the cost to replace one, I think the kiln-setter option may be a more practical solution.  Any thoughts on that? 

 

Oh, and by the way, thanks for all the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 40litre manual top loader has a kiln-sitter which served me fine for bisque firing, just by setting the control knob on a low number for the first couple of hours. As I use this for glaze firing also, it was not as controllable as I need, so I've invested in a digital controller, even though it cost as much as the kiln (second hand)!

 

You still get a level of control with a manual kiln with kiln sitter so I guess that would do just fine if you're just bisquing. Others more experienced than me may think otherwise - I'm not certain how critical the ramping is for bisque firing, other than a slow start. Sure you'll get plenty of advice before long! Perhaps save your $ for something else, there's bound to be other things to spend it on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Celia.  The slow start is my entire concern, and the manual method demands a bit of attention, particularly in the beginning. 

 

I have an Olympic model 1414 manual kiln, but I just want something a tad bigger.  ( I suppose it's like folks always wanting a boat just 2 feet longer than the one they have).

 

The cost of replacing the controller board is giving me pause.  I envision a day where a kiln will come with modular relays and a USB plug, and the entire operation will be precisely programmed from a laptop--perhaps not.

 

By the way, my sister lives in Oxfordshire, and she has become enamored of the work of Rowena Brown and her Raku houses.  My sister says that I mis-pronounce "Raku".  Of course, as you know, I also misspell labor, color and enamored.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must say that installing the digital controller was rather liberating for me.

 

I'll look up Rowena Brown tomorrow.

 

Despite being very pedantic about spelling and punctuation (former teacher!) I wouldn't dream of commenting on Americanisms in this forum!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...
  • 1 year later...

@Fielding Hi Fielding, I am hoping have managed to get a copy of a Perfect Fire Manual, since I have just lost mine.

I have just purchased a Kiln and need to get it up and running!

I have lost the manual that came with it! It is a front loader type Kiln and was running on a CIC Perfect Fire 11-563 Controller, made by a canadian Company

that no longer manufactures these controllers! The details on the panel are the same as your photo no 2 that you posted in 2014.

I hope you or somebody can please help me.

Kind Regards Claudia - South Africa

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I have the perfect fire rampmaster as pictured on a glass kiln. (Evenheat GTS 23 13.)   found this https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/11660243/perfect-fire-operators-manual-model-dtp-56-evenheat-kilns.  It seems to be for ceramic kilns not glass?  I couldn't get it to print full page or it may have been helpful?!  Guess I'll call evenheat Monday.  (

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.