Cersamic Posted Thursday at 11:46 PM Report Share Posted Thursday at 11:46 PM I have a Econo Model KR23. 220 V 3 full sections with jumper cables I have just rewired the whole kiln and I am very new at this. new switches, new jumper cables, new wire, and one new element(because one was broken). I am doing the glow test and turning all switches on high, but for each section I only get the bottom element to glow (I have 6 elements in total and only 3 are glowing) I know it's getting enough Volts from the plug, and there's continuity to the other sections. is there anything I can check to get these elements working? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted Thursday at 11:55 PM Report Share Posted Thursday at 11:55 PM Chances are the switches are wired wrong. Post a picture of the serial plate of the kiln so I can see exactly what we're dealing with, and also a picture of the switches. Do you know the part number of the switches you used? Pres and Cersamic 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted 13 hours ago Report Share Posted 13 hours ago Failing to find a circuit diagram ... This page gives electrical specifications of (some?) K-models, only the K230 models are listed as having 6 elements. https://hotkilns.com/hk-pdfs/%3Asites%3Adefault%3Afiles%3Apdf%3Ak-old-instruct Note: Each section of the kiln has an input control switch provided on the instrument panel. The K Model kilns used a four way switch (Low-Medium-High-Off). The original switches that were used are no longer available; however, a replacement switch made by Arkless is available. When changing to this switch you must order the replacement kit. (A diagram comes with the switch telling you how to rewire). [My emphasis, as I believe other switches are available which need to be wired differently.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick White Posted 8 hours ago Report Share Posted 8 hours ago Agree with @neilestrick, the switches are probably wired wrong. As noted by @PeterH, replacement switches have a different arrangement of the connections on the back of the switch. The functioning of the 4-way switches is: on Low, both elements are on, but connected in series for 1/4 the total power of the section. On Medium, only the bottom element turns on, for 1/2 the total power of the section. On High, both elements are on, but connected in parallel for full power. Though you have the switch turned to high, the wiring to the elements is as if it is on medium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted 7 hours ago Report Share Posted 7 hours ago If your new switches are the Arkless ones ... INSTRUCTIONS FOR WIRING NEW ARK-LES REPLACEMENT SWITCH https://hotkilns.com/sites/default/files/pdf/ARKLESS.PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 5 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 5 hours ago the switches are invensys Robertshaw CSV415-01U for all sections I wired the bottom element prong to the first on the left, middle to the far right, and the top to the middle right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 5 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 5 hours ago Here are some more pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 5 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 5 hours ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 5 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 5 hours ago Looking at the diagram do I need a piggy back connector? Because nothing is attached to #3 on the switch. and thank you all so much for your help, and knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted 4 hours ago Report Share Posted 4 hours ago @Cersamic In looking at your photos it appears you have 2 elements per kiln section, and they are wired in series, correct? That serial plate for just one section of the kiln, correct? And you have 3 sections? Did you get the switches from L&L or somewhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 4 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 4 hours ago I got it from a retired artist in FL, there's the same serial plate for 2 sections and one with the model K kiln sitter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 4 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 4 hours ago I got the switches from Clay King Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted 3 hours ago Report Share Posted 3 hours ago @Cersamic In looking at your photos it appears you have 2 elements per kiln section, and they are wired in series, correct? Post a photo with a good shot of the element connections if you're not sure. What switches were on it before- were they low-med-high or infinite like 1-6? Cersamic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 3 hours ago here are the elements and the old switches were oak switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 3 hours ago I also had this switch for 1 section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 3 hours ago here is the oak switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 3 hours ago the switches before were low-med-high-off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted 3 hours ago Report Share Posted 3 hours ago 1 hour ago, neilestrick said: @Cersamic In looking at your photos it appears you have 2 elements per kiln section, and they are wired in series, correct? That serial plate for just one section of the kiln, correct? And you have 3 sections? Did you get the switches from L&L or somewhere else? So looking at https://hotkilns.com/hk-pdfs/%3Asites%3Adefault%3Afiles%3Apdf%3Ak-old-instruct again -- there are 2*KR23 (rings) and 1*K23. Assuming 240V at full power (on one ring) R = V^2/W = 240^2/3500 = 16.46 ohms. So at full power that's the two 32.7ohms elements in parallel. At 50% power that's 240v across one element. At 25% power that's 240v across the two elements in series. From https://hotkilns.com/sites/default/files/pdf/ARKLESS.PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted 2 hours ago Report Share Posted 2 hours ago All of these types of switches are different. Did the Robert Shaw switches come with a wiring diagram? If so post a picture of it. Otherwise, do you have a multimeter? With that you can figure out the correct wiring placement by seeing which terminals have continuity on each setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cersamic Posted 2 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 2 hours ago @neilestrick they did not come with a wiring diagram, but I do have a multi meter if you could walk me through what setting and how to do this that would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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