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refiring glaze without changing it


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i use a sprayer to glaze my work.   recently, i started using flowers to make pattern blocks that i really like.  some finished work did not get enough glaze in small areas.   interior edges of rims sometimes are not as glossy and fingers can feel the slight roughness where this has happened.   i fire to cone 6.

i have refired these in the past to cone 6  but now i am so pleased with the form that i do not want to risk losing pieces to overglazing some spots.   would using cone 5 be enough to fix the problems?  the show is in 10 days and the big kiln takes 3 days when full.

min, this is the marvelous clear glaze that you gave me and it has taken over my glaze kitchen.  the colors are fabulous.   some of the pots have sufficient color that i can just add some clear to smooth out the roughness, others need more color.  

Edited by oldlady
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Just to clarify the options are to spray on some more glaze and refire to cone 5 or cone 6? Risks are applying too much glaze? 

I don't know how that clear fires at cone 5. It would probably be okay but I'm not certain of this. Perhaps placing it in a cool spot in your kiln and do your usual cone 6?

Glad that high calcium clear is working well for you!

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yes, min.   your clarification is right on.   in addition, some of the bottoms need touch up.   another potter came by yesterday and said she would just offer everything as is and let buyers decide for themselves.   somehow that feels like cheating.   i do not sell seconds but sometimes point out a tiny flaw and reduce the usual price by $2 or $3.  

different question, same subject.   a number of the shallow trays have warped.   no explanation.  wondering if i removed them from their supports too soon.  i cannot refire the ones that have sagged, looks like i have some to keep for myself.  

wish i could add photos, did well with them in windows 7.   11 is not the same.

:osomehow my edit went to the original post, not the one i wanted.

Edited by oldlady
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I have been thinking about refiring some dishes I made 20 years ago.    We use them for our daily dishware,  the glaze is a dark cobalt blue developed by Tony Hansen.   It is a glaze that is suppose to be durable on dish ware.  I guess 20 years is to long to expect it to hold up,  the surface of the plates look like a wedgewood blue now from  utensils scraping against it.   I still have some of  the glaze,  I guess I will just have to test fire and see what works the best   Denice

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3 hours ago, oldlady said:

a number of the shallow trays have warped.   no explanation.  wondering if i removed them from their supports too soon.  i cannot refire the ones that have sagged,

If the bottoms are a bit warped and you want to level them out you can use a diamond flat lap disc to do that. I stick one onto my wheelhead just by using a (knockoff) Xiem BatMate and water, could also use a pad or donut of clay. I dribble water onto it while the wheel is going at near full speed. It can take a few minutes to grind the bottom level but it works, makes the bottom really smooth too. 

I have 2 flat lap discs, one is 80 grit the other 100. The 100 grit is a better quality (more expensive) one and works better. 

3 hours ago, oldlady said:

wish i could add photos, did well with them in windows 7.   11 is not the same.

I can post them here for you if you can email them to me.

3 hours ago, Denice said:

I guess I will just have to test fire and see what works the best

I'ld be super cautious refiring ware that has been used. Unless it's completely dried of all moisture it can give some really bad blowups in the kiln, especially if it's quite a tight body with low absorption, makes it harder for the moisture to escape.

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thanks, min.   my warping problem is not the common slight twist but seriously bad, including the sides falling outward.   i know they are lost, some have picked up kiln wash at the edges of the hot waxed area.  i have a diamond bat for the simple rocking problem but rarely need it.

i am making more and drying them in the sunny windows of my studio.  heading out there now.   

will attempt photos later.

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I hadn't thought about the plates retaining moisture,  I could  put  a salad plate in the oven and let it heat for a while  before I test fire it.   I don't need to refire the whole set just the plates.  I probably should start using my china dishes,  I no longer have a family to cook a holiday dinner for.   They also don't sell well at estates sales,  younger people aren't interested in formal occasions.   I have extra sets of stainless silverware that I might as well start using everyday.   I have been trying to talk my husband into putting in a pool table and getting rid of the unused dining room furniture.     Denice

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I refire things, usually for very similar reasons described. Rarely do I add more glaze. Either they work or they don’t, but they do often enough I keep doing it. If there’s a piece I’m on the fence about I will hit it with 1000-1500 grit wet sandpaper first. It’s abrasive, but more like a polish, knocks down the grit and helps me know if something is not up to par or if I’m just being finicky. When I find myself sanding for more than one minute then I stop and reflect on my choices. Seriously, use a stopwatch. 

As to re-firing used dinnerware, I’ve done that too (with 20 year old plates no less!). There wasn’t much to lose, those plates were heading to the landfill. It was a sentimental move. Very happy, it was like getting new dishes . No additional glaze, just a refire. I agree with being cautious, slow enough to be positive all water is gone. I’m not advocating it, I just want to be a voice that says “I did that once and it worked well.” 

 

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Kelly thank you for the informative reply,  it gives me a little more hope that it will work.  Me and my arthritis are to old to make another set.    I could buy a set but I like unusual daily utensils in my life.   Denice

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