THW Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 I'm in desperate need of some advice. I have an Evenheat STP 17 120V glass kiln with a TAP controller and mechanical relay. The kiln is just over a year old and I have replaced the relay 5 times since that is what the Evenheat tech support recommended. However, the latest issue doesn't seem like it's relay-related, since replacing it isn't making any difference. I've spent too much time troubleshooting and coming up with nothing. The kiln isn't warming, and nothing seems to be broken. I'm at a complete loss! I'm wondering if the issue is with the controller itself. The voltage meter reads adequate power throughout. The calibration on the TAP screen is off and holding a finger on the screen for 15 seconds isn't working. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you! Theresa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Hi @THW, welcome to the forum! I'm not familiar with the controller, but has the relay actually burned out every time you've replaced it? If it's burning out, then there's a bigger problem, like either the kiln is pulling too much amperage and it's overloading the relay, or there's an issue with the wires connected to the relays. A relay should get at least 150 firings before it burns out, so there's definitely something else going on. Are you sure it's the correct relay? Post a pic of the kiln serial plate if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 The realistic were sent directly from Evenheat. I'm not sure if the relays were faulty, now wondering if it's a bigger issue! I'll take a pic of the plate and post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) I think your diagram here https://www.evenheat-kiln.com/_files/ugd/3a9418_3f21adacb8c84a608e3481349c72110a.pdf. Looks like all crimps have been replaced at one time or another. What I don’t understand is the extra connections to the normally olosed set of contacts on the relay. This is not shown on the diagram, can you describe or show where all these lead? On most relays the normally open contacts will be rated for high amperage - 20-25 amps something like that. The normally closed usually will be a fraction of that, say 2-3 amps. Most kilns don’t use them yet your kiln has wires to them. Interesting. My best guess is someone got the double pole double throw relay and crimped extra connectors on instead of combining the wires as shown in first drawing. In the drawing below a red and black are combined on terminal #4 and a red and white are combined on terminal #8. The way this is currently wired is likely a dead short or running full element current through very low rated contacts as soon as the power is turned on. You can use a relay like that, but two of the connections need remain unused. The normally closed set remain unused. Just looking, the top two relay connections are not colored as published either and the missing green is part of the lid safety circuit.. Tracing all these out and matching them to the diagram is probably wise before firing it again. Edited December 30, 2023 by Bill Kielb Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 WOW! This is definitely eye-opening! We have replaced the relays several times and each time, we have attached the wires according to the original schematic provided by Evenheat. Most of the replacements lasted through quite a a number of firings, but it always varied. This time, none of the new ones I got is doing anything. My husband has checked amperage and it seems there's life at all the connections. Thank you for your input, I'll let you know what I find! Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 1 hour ago, THW said: according to the original schematic provided by Evenheat. The link I provided should be the Evenheat schematic(s) for the various configuration for your model. According to all the diagrams, terminal 4’s crimp needs to contain 2 wires (red and black) terminal 8 needs to contain 2 wires (red and white) or this will not work electrically, at least for very long. If they are sending relays with 8 terminals instead of 6 this could be confusing. I believe they have a solid state model that does use an 8 pin relay, I don’t see it in any of the diagrams for your model though. Check your wiring against the schematic to be sure though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Thank you, I will! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Just to confirm, this is the exact model I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 This is what I received with the most recent relay I received (they sent 3) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 This is for a six pin relay so not really helpful with the eight pin you received. This also does not contain the wires you have in your kiln as none of the common pins have two wires crimped in them like the drawing shows. Not to worry, post a nice clear photo of the relay and wires and we should be able to sketch out something for you to confirm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 @THW Can you tell us where each pair of wires on the relay connect to? The single pair at the end should go to the controller. One set should go to the relays. The other sets should come from the power cord and connect to the transformer. Can you make a diagram that shows which terminal pairs lead to which parts? Also, can you tell us what the part number on the relay says? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 I will open the box and take some pics! Thank you in advance for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Here are a few more pics. The one top wire got pulled out of plastic tab and my husband fixed it (I hope). So the colors of those tabs may vary. I had success replacing the last relay. Not that I don't trust his skills, but it could definitely be human error. I took some more pics of the realy attached and detached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 44 minutes ago, THW said: Here are a few more pics. The relay in these pictures is different than the relay you currently have installed. The 6 tab is the correct one, not the 8 tab that's currently installed. I would hook up the 6 tab, following the wiring diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 It looks like the blue and yellow connectors were replaced, can you tell me if this is true? He definitely needs crimpers to replace these so they are lasting, the top one does not appear crimped. Could be the picture though. If these are all crimped well and you have a six tab relay then I think we will suggest a very simple fix with terminal extensions. Can you let us know: Are they all factory crimped or crimped well? Do you have a new six tab relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Pulled on one of the 2 main wires and the detached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 @THW Aha! It's not an 8 tab, it's a 6 tab with a double connector. Okay, so that all good then. We just couldn't tell from the photo. In that case double check all the crimps and see if that helps. A bad crimp could definitely cause the relay to overheat and fail. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Only one of the crimps has been replaced. It doesn't seem to be the issue though because the elements aren't heating up at all. In the past, the elements did start heating up even though the relay wasn't working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) On 12/30/2023 at 4:02 PM, THW said: Only one of the crimps has been replaced. It doesn't seem to be the issue though because the elements aren't heating up at all. In the past, the elements did start heating up even though the relay wasn't working. Aha ! Better pictures. So it has terminal extensions. If it’s just not working then check the fuse between PIN number 11 of the power switch and pin 4 of the relay. Also check the lid switch if you have one, this kiln will not start without the lid down. There should be an adjustable lid switch that connects when the lid is closed. It may have bent or be slightly out of adjustment. And not to forget to mention, ( not likely but….) the new crimp has to be crimped around bare wire, not just the outer plastic of the wire. A nice tight connection that cannot be pulled out of the connector. Edited January 1 by Bill Kielb neilestrick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 Still no luck! Maybe the lid switch is faulty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 (edited) 19 minutes ago, THW said: Still no luck! Maybe the lid switch is faulty? Yes, can you manually operate it with your finger. Push the plunger down until you hear a click. If you hear a distinct click then hold this down and see if your inside relay will fire with this held down. If that all works you need to physically see what needs to be done for the lid to engage this switch when the lid is closed so that the switch is depressed enough so that same click is heard. This is a roller safety switch which I believe Is non adjustable so whatever depresses this is often the adjustable portion. If this all works then great, to troubleshoot further is not hard but will take a bit more writing space. BTW can you confirm the 3 amp glass fuse is fine? Very fine wire so you likely need a meter to check it has continuity. If you have power to your controller some way, then that fuse is fine. Edited January 2 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 OK, I tried that, nothing happened. I think we've rule almost everything out, except the TAP and some internal wires we can't see. It started after I incorrectly calibrated the screen. I looked how to recalibrate it, which also didn't work. I'm going to call SDS tomorrow and see what they say. I can't believe it's the relays, 3 of which are brand new... Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 11 hours ago, THW said: I'm going to call SDS tomorrow and see what they say. I can't believe it's the relays, 3 of which are brand new... Since this all started with the Tap screen recalibration, it seems likely that it is the issues solve first. The tap executes a calibration routine after holding your finger in one place for 15 seconds I believe. Software updates may effect this as well so probably good to be in a position to get this connected to the net if not already connected. Not being able to start this kiln by controller is definitely an issue before checking other parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THW Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 Thank you, I will definitely do that! I'll report back after speaking with the tech at SDS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.