KS 1227 won't reach temp

[kilianpottery]

I just finished restoring a KS 1227.  All new elements. Two out of three switches were replaced. Connectors replaced. 

I've done two test firings without the kiln reaching temp. 11 hours on high has only resulted in an un-vitrified cone 6. No sag! 

Confirmed... phase one plug. 600-volt wire. 50 amp breaker. Voltage measurement under load is 248 volts. 

I am thinking it is the switches that I wired, that are wrong.  I bet I forgot to mirror them.  I'll check.

Thoughts?

 

 

Edited July 23 by kilianpottery

[Dick White]

The following link from Skutt shows the expected resistance for KS model kiln when measuring across the prongs of the unplugged power cable:

https://skutt.com/skutt-resources/specifications/kilnsitter-kilns/

If the new elements were properly placed (the ones in the top and bottom positions are different from the ones in the middle), then you should be getting the resistance readings as noted on the sheet as you turn each switch from low to high. If your readings are different, then it is probable you wired the switches wrong.

[neilestrick]

Check the switches, make sure all the elements are getting power on High.

[Dave Earley]

I have a Blue diamond kiln sitter kiln that has new elements. I replaced one 3 heat switch that read open on high setting.  I hope i wired the new switch correctly but it did not have a terminal for the neutral wire so I connected that to the chassis ground,  the kiln stalled at 1940 F.  I initially did a test with paper on the elements which led me to replace the upper switch.  The kiln is rated 230 volts so I don't think it has 208 v elements.  I haven't found any element to switch diagrams or repair guides.  I talked to the RobertShaw  company switch  tech who said the switch i bought from the Ceramic Shop was originally used for south American air conditioners.  He had no information on wiring.  The Ceramic Shop was no help either.  they said to call Euclids

Edited September 13 by Dave Earley
Further information,

[neilestrick]

3 hours ago, Dave Earley said:

I hope i wired the new switch correctly but it did not have a terminal for the neutral wire so I connected that to the chassis ground,  the kiln stalled at 1940 F.

All kiln switches are made for other appliances- stoves, AC, etc.

Does your kiln use a neutral wire? Post a pic of the serial plate on the kiln.

[Dave Earley]

The kiln has third wire, marked green. plate is labeled model 180, 230 volts ,24 amps. the elements obviously go on the bottom row of connectors but in what order

Edited September 17 by Dave Earley
further information, picture.

[PeterH]

Any help?
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0272/1968/9606/files/KS1227_KS1027_And_KS1018_1PH_Wiring_Diagram.pdf?v=1593295124

At a quick glance all the switches seem to have similar wiring

Edited September 17 by PeterH

[Dave Earley]

As the picture of the new switch shows, the two tabs  in the middle are connected and i wired one end of each pair to those tabs.  Using a slip of paper on each coil on the high setting only one coil is heating.  I rechecked the wire connectors but still not working.  Thanks for the diagram that is what I was looking for.

[Dave Earley]

I solved this problem by buying a different switch from Euclid's and the kiln works.  Now I have a different problem.  I asked the Ceramic Shop in PA where I purchased the first switch for a return/refund.  They are giving me the run around, asking for troubleshooting details, did I check with a kiln technician, send them a picture of the damaged part.  The switch is open on one leg in the high setting.  I even said I would accept a credit.  Are they trying to stiff me?  I have answered all their questions and am waiting.