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Melted Relay


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Hello,

I own a skutt KM-1227 single phase, 240V kiln.

I recently noticed that the wires that connect the top two rows of elements to the terminal strip looked a little brown on the outside and the connector looked darker brown too. I replaced the connector. Completed a few more firings before noticing that the connector for the top coil, the plastic shell had melted to the terminal strip(this firing schedule also completed, I’ve never had any error codes or failed firings). I take my kiln apart frequently, in order to load larger sculpture work, I thought maybe I didn’t attach it back tight enough? I decided to give the kiln a little maintenance since I bought it used about 4 years ago and had only replaced the elements a couple years back. I replaced all the connector ends on the wires that plug into the terminal strip. I also replaced all three relays(the relays were almost black and had derby inside), everything was plugged in properly and fitted tightly. I ran the kiln again cone 5, slow speed, took about 13 hours to complete which was consistent with past firings with the same schedule. I powered down the kiln and waited a couple days for it to cool, when I turned it back on this time it was making a buzzing like when the relay clicks and power flows, I powered down opened up, the connectors looked fine, but the relay that controls that top row of elements the wire for the very top row melted into the relay. Has anyone heard of any similar experiences, or has any suggestions on how to remedy this problem. I was thinking of replacing the wiring from the elements to the terminal panels next. Any help is much appreciated.  m00v8Ev.jpgv4Nm3J8.jpg

 

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Hi @John Flores, welcome to the forum!

This happens when the wires get old, and those wires are old. They are white when they're new. Old wires can burn out a brand new relay very quickly.

1. Get a new terminal strip.

2. Assuming the feeder wires are connected to the elements with the standard Skutt crimp connectors: Cut off all the slip-on terminal connectors on the ends of the feeder wires that connect to the terminal strip, and put new connectors on them. No sense using corroded connectors on a new terminal strip. Replace the feeder wires next time you replace the elements. If the feeder wires are connected to the elements with removable connectors, then replace the feeder wires now. In the future, replace the slip-on terminals any time they show signs of overheating.

3. Replace the relay.

4. Get a new wiring harness (for inside the control box). It has all the wires going into and out of the relays and all the red control wires. I don't usually replace the control wires unless they really need it, but yours are looking fairly corroded so I'd replace them. Be really careful removing the wires from the transformer. Those connections are really delicate.

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2 hours ago, John Flores said:

Has anyone heard of any similar experiences, or has any suggestions on how to remedy this problem. I was thinking of replacing the wiring from the elements to the terminal panels next. Any help is much appreciated.  

Yes, the better the connection, the less heat. Connections with higher amperage will develop this sooner than others. The terminal block, size of the connector and local cooling can affect the life of the connection. You definitely should replace the wire or cut it back enough to where it is shiny and not corroded. The more corrosion, the more heat causing more corrosion and heat …… you get the idea. An overheated connection can overheat other things like relays etc….  (See below) we keep an eye out for bad connections and fix them before they affect an adjacent pert.

IR_0283.jpeg

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@neilestrick I was hoping you'd see my post, I noticed you helping a lot of people in older forum posts when I was originally digging around for solutions. Thank you so much for the advice. I was also wondering about my thermocouple. I've never replaced it in the few years I've had the kiln so I'm sure it long overdue. I recently bought a km-714 kiln and they gave me an extra thermocouple, is that one adequate for my km-1227 ? It does look different which was my only concern.xod6CRg.jpgtqhcmNZ.jpg

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@John Flores happy to help! The new one is the the style they've been using for several years now. It's a type K jsut like the old one, and will work in any model. You'll have to drill out the hole to fit it. For a tight fit, make the hole just a hair too small using either  a drill bit or a round file, then use the thermocouple itself to make it the perfect size. Just twist it into the hole. Work from both sides of the hole so you don't flake out the brick on the inside.

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Alright I've replaced all the element wires/wires in my kiln master, I have one last question for you @neilestrick. I noticed that the power cord wires looked corroded at the ends so I wanted to cut them back and replace the connectors. I found these connectors at my home depot, I was wondering if they will work the hole for the screw is a little bigger than the original one, and the metal seems a little thinner too, the next size up the thickness of the metal seemed to match better but the hole for the screw was way too big. I bought 1/4" stud ring terminal, 8 AWG. Thank you again for all the help, I really appreciate it!pczjGoo.jpgcWqCDc8.jpgUFty89o.jpg

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16 hours ago, John Flores said:

one, and the metal seems a little thinner too, the next size up the thickness of the metal seemed to match better

If you are stuck or unsure they will crimp tight enough a mechanical lug can be a solution. Definitely available at most big box. Cut back the wire until you find nice copper.

 

IMG_3845.jpeg

Edited by Bill Kielb
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