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Paragon Kiln A66B


ranna123

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Hi, I want to buy a used kiln from someone on facebook marketplace but both of us don't know a lot about them electrically. A plaque on the kiln has the specifications and next to volts it says '120/240/3w'. Does that mean it can work with both 120v and 240v?  Also, it says that on a plaque but on the front it says 230v, which one is right? (The plaque also states the amps, watts, phase, serial and model number) Thank you!

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120/240 means that it needs to be wired up as a 4 wire circuit- 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground- because the elements are set up so that each of the two sections of the kilns uses one of the 120 volt hot wires. Together the whole kiln is 240 volts, but internally it's like two separate 120 volt kilns. Post a pic of the serial plate, or at least tell us what the info says and we can give you more info on how to set it up.

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Wiring diagrams
Paragon site
https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/A66WD.pdf
Clearer image and firing schedules
https://ltt.arizona.edu/sites/ltt.lab.arizona.edu/files/MED Paragon Kiln Wiring Diagrams and Parts ID.pdf

The diagram emphasises Neil's points on the need for a 4-wire supply.
The B in A-66B indicates a stainless steel jacket

... can you also post a picture of the 230v shown on the front, it may be on  something like a controller/kiln-sitter mounted on the kiln itself.
kilnSaver.jpeg.5c127fccde154e3f97a6f8ca2c091183.jpeg

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7 hours ago, ranna123 said:

These are the pictures. I only have outlets for 120v so I am assuming that since the whole kiln is 240v it won't work with a 120v outlet. Thank you!!

The 230V listed on the Kiln Sitter basically just means it's a 2 pole system. The serial plate is the real info for the kiln.

You're not going to find a kiln of any useable size that will work on a standard 15 amp 120 volt electrical outlet. Even the smallest test kilns need a 20 amp 120V circuit, which you may have in your garage. But that's going to be a very small kiln that would only hold 3-4 mugs at most. If you really want a kiln that is big enough to be worth the money, you'll need to have a 240 volt circuit run for the kiln. FYI, if you do pursue that, kilns must be on a breaker that is 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. So if you get a 24 amp kiln it has to be on a 30 amp breaker. A 28 amp kiln has to be on a 35 or 40 amp breaker, a 35 amp kiln on a 50 amp breaker, etc.

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  • 9 months later...

I am also resurrecting a Paragon model A66B Kiln and am extremely grateful for this post!  My wife used it 20+ years ago for her art classes at an elementary school where my daughter went to school, and where my wife taught art.  And now, she wants to use this same kiln to fire clay with the footprints of our first grandchild :-) This may be a launch point for her renewed interests in firing.

I am amply able to wire (pun intended) and got it working again with some disassembly and electrical contact cleaning.  I have a couple of questions that haven't been answered by my internet research:

- The Paragon guide listed in this thread https://ltt.arizona.edu/sites/ltt.lab.arizona.edu/files/MED Paragon Kiln Wiring Diagrams and Parts ID.pdf indicates a "VENTED" lid position.  I see no provision for this with our unit. Am I missing something?

- The unit has a red light for indicating operation but it does not work.  Any suggestions for replacement? 

- I have a couple of 240V outlets that have GFCI breakers and I can't seem to use them with this Kiln.  They trip immediately.  Do I have a wiring issue, or is this inherently going to be a problem with a device that uses both sides of the circuit in a somewhat independent way.

 

Happy holidays to all.

 

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@SolidCitizen Vented used to mean propped, perhaps with a peep hole or two out. Some kilns came with a small L shaped prop build into the lid, for others folks would prop the lid and inch or so with kiln furniture to vent. Usually in the first portion of the firing to let out any minor amount of water (steam) being released.

If this is on a 2 pole GFCI breaker and the breaker trips then there is leakage at that level. (About .005 amps directly to ground) some GFCI breakers are sensitive and will nuisance trip so changing to a new 2 pole GFCI may work. If this run is out to a garage, the quality of the wire, connections etc… can contribute to the sensitivity. Any junction that is wet or moist can cause minor leakage.

In my view,  if it is tripping then there is leakage so solving that issue can be difficult. Lots of folks don’t run kilns on GFCI’s, just items within reach of water sources ….. sinks mostly. A well grounded kiln is important though so ensuring a good ground all the way back to the panel AND to a grounding source such as water main and driven ground rod is a must to protect from shock.

Here is a link to the old generic Paragon manual https://paragonweb.com/wp-content/uploads/IM104-Paragon-Ceramic-Kilns-April20181.pdf venting is explained among other things.

4 way rotary switch operation explained here https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/IM-55-Current-Flow-thru-4-way-Switch.pdf

A&B service manual https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/IM5-A-and-B-Paragon-Inst-Man-Jan2017.pdf

Your kiln by manufacture requires a 30 amp breaker, btw page 6 guide above.

Finally the pilot is likely 240 volt rated neon light. Double check the voltage stamped on the side and replace with proper voltage rated lamp.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Thank you!!

As an update:

- I replaced the breaker with a standard non-GFI breaker and all is working fine (the original GFI breaker was for my home brewing setup)

- also, thanks on the info on venting, my wife sincerely appreciates the guides!  She had been using the kiln without the benefit of any manuals in the past.

- Fascinating info on  firebrick conductivity, @neilestrick

We got things working and did our first firing last night.

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