Jimself Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 I recently experimented with having a fired terra cotta art-piece glazed. The glazed finish turned out very glossy. Its nice, but I would prefer something less glossy. Has anyone had success toning down the gloss of a piece after the fact? I have done some internet research and my ‘best’ idea so far is sandpaper.Any other suggestions. Or advice for me.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 If you have access to sandblasting that should work. Examples of Eric Rempe work and how he does it here. Would it be easier to remake the piece and use a less glossy glaze? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Jimself said: my ‘best’ idea so far is sandpaper. 500 + 1000 grit definitely an idea. Sand / media blasting probably easiest way to get uniform. There are many blasting medias for different finish levels. I have used liquid glass etching for logos /initials etc… never on a whole pot though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimself Posted January 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 This is the piece that I want to tone down the gloss on. . . Hyn Patty 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Do you have some test pieces with the same glaze on it? If not I would make a couple test pieces with some contours etc and try out experiments on those. Check out sand blasting services and or rentals. Welcome to the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyn Patty Posted February 9, 2023 Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 (edited) There are several ways you can do it. As mentioned you can sand blast it to subdue the finish. Or you can simply reglaze it using a satin or matte glaze right over it and refire it - as long as you aren't having to fire it at a higher temperature than your other materials already used. I do suggest you do a test tile first with the various steps but this technique has worked well for me. You want to be sure the glazes are compatible and if your kiln cools down too fast you may need to ramp your cool down to allow time for the satin or matte glazes to mature properly. I've also done the reverse - fired a piece with a matte or satin glaze, then found glaze fit issues that caused crazing that might lead to dunting. To fix it, I refired the piece with a lead based gloss glaze right over the original glaze I had applied and it fixed the issue just fine. Just be very careful if you need to fire higher than previous firing steps as it can really mess with things underneath, change colors, cause pin holing, etc. Yet another method would be to over glaze using flux or overglaze that has zinc oxide or similar matting agents added. Then you fire it at the much lower overglaze temperature for that new layer. Depending on how much matting agent you apply you may get a slightly lighter tint to the finished piece. Such a matting agent can be applied by hand though I get the best results when using an airbrush (properly ventilated and wear a respirator of course). And yet ANOTHER way to do it is to apply glass etching paste such as you buy at the hobby and craft stores to etch glass! Simply apply it only to the glazed areas, not the non-glazed clay. I suggest yet again doing tests first because you will want to see how long you need to leave it on to get the desired finish you want. Lastly, if all that is just too scary, you can also simply apply a matte artist's grade non-yellowing varnish over your gloss. It will hold up and not scratch off like sprays - get a bottle and apply it using a brush. There is a long tradition of mixed media in the fine arts ceramics sculpture venue through history so don't be afraid to mix it up and even add non-ceramic elements. You only need to be a purist if you intend to enter this piece into ceramics competitions. If so, see above options. Good luck! Nice piece! Edited February 9, 2023 by Hyn Patty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly in AK Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 The glass etching paste is a brilliant idea. As @Hyn Pattysays, test first. I agree, beautiful work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyn Patty Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 8 hours ago, Kelly in AK said: The glass etching paste is a brilliant idea. As @Hyn Pattysays, test first. I agree, beautiful work. Depends on the results you want. If you leave glass etching paste on too long it'll make your glaze turn frosty, somewhat opaque white! In this case it could make the sculpture look pink. But if you don't leave it on very long you can kill that gloss and not have any substantial frosting. So test a small discreet area first or prep a test tile to decide how long to leave it for best results. The paste isn't cheap so you don't want to waste it by applying it and then wiping it off too soon, then have to apply it again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 an alternate approach to remove "gloss": place the object in a container of sharp sand then vibrate the container for a few minutes; the sharp sand will create scratch the glaze surface and remove some the "gloss"; take the object out evaluate the "gloss"; repeat as needed. You can also use fine emery paper and change the "gloss". LT Hyn Patty 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 Sharp sand sounds like a great idea, is it a special sand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyn Patty Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 On 2/10/2023 at 1:07 PM, Denice said: Sharp sand sounds like a great idea, is it a special sand? Sharp sand is just builder's sand. Get it at any building supply store - as opposed to play sand which is finer and more like dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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