New (to me!) kiln needs some help

[kylies.clay]

Hey y’all! Last weekend I met with a local slip caster and helped her organize some molds in exchange for a kiln. It’s an old Paragon kiln, model A82B. She had never used it since she got it (new to her many years ago) but it worked when she did. Since it was free for a couple hours of work I figured it was worth the gamble. My dad is going to be hooking up two phase power in his shop for me so I can have a spot for my kiln, but in the meantime I have a few questions.
1. One of the firebricks in the corner of the lid has a hole through it. I put a light inside and when shut you couldn’t see the light because the hole rests on top of the wall of the kiln. Should I worry about cutting out that brick and replacing it, or no? I’ll attach a picture below.
2. Some of the firebricks that are supporting the elements are broken. No elements are touching, but they could at the very least use some staples I think. Do these bricks need to be replaced right now, or will it be functional while I’m still getting the swing of things (this is still just a hobby, not yet a career ). I’ll attach a picture of this as well.
2b. These elements are WONKY! Should I just go ahead and replace them? I found the replacement ones on the paragon website, but I have no clue how you go about doing that.
3. You can only see through the bottom two peepholes. On the top one you can see the hole, but it is not centered on where the hole in the metal is. It’s over about an inch and you would never be able to get a peephole in. Would it be fine without? Sadly the pictures I got of it didn’t really turn out well.
4. My kiln sitter (Model LT-3)! I honestly haven’t looked into it much and while I understand the basic principle (rod keeping the switch up is a fulcrum, pyro cone knocks it and lifts the rod to turn it off) I don’t quite understand the mechanics. Right now, the rod is staying all the way down so the switch won’t go up. Is this because there’s no power to it maybe (doesn’t seem like the issue), or because the timer dial is set to the “off” position right now? I’ll include a picture of it as well.

Phew! That was a lot of questions. If you take the time to read all this, thank you! I hope y’all can help me out, and in the meantime I’ll be reading through the manual!

 

I've exceeded my file size for this post, so I'm going to post the rest in a response

[kylies.clay]

[neilestrick]

2 pole wiring is called single phase. A 3 pole system is called 3 phase. It's weird, but that's how it is. You'll need a 40 amp, 240 volt, single phase circuit for that kiln, because the breaker has to be rated 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. Do not put it on a 30 amp circuit.

That lid hole is not great, but it'll be really difficult to get a brick patch to stay in place. I'd stuff some fiber in it, put a layer of mortar on it to harden it, and call it good.

The broken brick need to be replaced. The elements will just continue to sag if you don't. It's not going to be easy to replace the bricks on that kiln since it has a full jacket covering the entire kiln including the floor slab. If it doesn't have worm drive clamps on the steel jacket, but instead is just screwed together, you'll want to put a couple of ratcheting straps around the kiln and then remove all of the screws except the ones at the bottom. Then you can loosed the straps enough to open the jacket and replace the bricks. You may need to put a screw into the straps opposite the ratchet so they don't slide down. Double check that there aren't other broken bricks that just aren't obvious. Paragon cuts their grooves really deep and sometimes the whole length of the groove will be broken loose but you can't see it. After replacing the bricks, get the jacket lined up properly with the peep holes and use a squeeze clamp at the peeps so it stays in alignment as you tighten up the straps. Then put in new screws to hold it all together. There's a good chance the screw holes will no longer line up. Then put new elements in.

You'll have to decide if it's worth the cost. Replacement parts HERE. Ignore the 'unsafe site' alert, it's fine. Paragon just doesn't have their certificates up to date on their old site.

[Denice]

A couple of years ago I threw away a Paragon that was 40 years old that looked like the same model as yours.   I had maintained it well,  but with heat and age the bricks were crumbly.    When I took the jacket off the bricks broke and crumbled into a million bits.  I wouldn't buy any replacement parts until I take the jacket  and see how well it holds up.   When you buy another kiln get one that comes in three sections,  they are much easier to work on and move.  Volunteer to help with firing a electric kiln,  tell your professor that you are wanting to learn how to fire them.   Learning how to load one will also save you a lot of headaches later when you load your own kiln.  Denice

[oldlady]

hello, kylie, congrats on the possibilities!

you are right about the kiln sitter, your 4 th question but you missed the round button between the weight and the  release bar.  that button is the (ON) switch.  the weight falls and clicks it off.

lots of people miss that part and cannot figure out why the kiln won't work.  i have personally disliked the timer on the one i have now.  the one i bought in 1972 did not have one so when i fired the new one the first time, i did not realize that the timer would shut it off at whatever number of hours it had been set.  

someone has treated that kiln badly, hope it is salvagable and you enjoy using it for many years.