Alexia Merces Vidal Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 How do i do this effect in which there is no glaze in the lines between the spaces? should i not glaze those parts? or do they get that worn-out look on their own? I will be very grateful to the people who help me. I think this effect is incredible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 55 minutes ago, Alexia Merces Vidal said: How do i do this effect in which there is no glaze in the lines between the spaces? should i not glaze those parts? or do they get that worn-out look on their own? The effect is called "breaking"; the glaze melt has a high surface tension and moves away from sharp edges. To find out if the glaze will "break" on your work you need to do some testing by just trying the glaze. For glazes that do not normally "break", wiping the edges gently with a wet sponge to remove some - but NOT ALL - of the glaze will produce something resembling "breaking" but not as strong. Application thickness also is important; very thick application can overcome the "breaking" effect. Test, adjust, Test, ... LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Glazes opacified with tin will do this on their own usually. When thin, a tin glaze will break over sharp points. The clay body underneath is red, so the spots where it breaks are dark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 I have a white glaze that’s opacified with zircopax and titanium that breaks just fine. I’m gonna say the base glaze is probably more critical than the opacifier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 22 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said: I have a white glaze that’s opacified with zircopax and titanium that breaks just fine. I’m gonna say the base glaze is probably more critical than the opacifier. I'd agree but in a glaze like Folk Art Guild White, the glaze does not break with zircopax, it requires tin at least in part. Same with "cream breaking rust" glaze. So at least in some glazes the opacifier is crucial. I have tried to save money on tin on every tin glaze I have by substitution, just out of necessity since tin is now extremely expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 @liambesaw Fair. Mine breaks blueish, not in the warm spectrum by any stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Merces Vidal Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thank u so much!! =) the answers helped me a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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