Jump to content

My First Acid Etching Attempt


Brandon Franks

Recommended Posts

Just now, Brandon Franks said:

Hey,

 

So I specifically made this glaze to acid etch, and felt like the results were good enough to be shared. The brighter green is the etched, black is the tile straight out of the firing.

 

4 hours in muriatic acid, glaze is high in black Copper Oxide with a very small amount of RiO.

 

 

 

 

4 Acid Etched.jpeg

4.jpeg

You will also notice very minimal melt with this crystal glaze, that's all thanks to @glazenerd 

Will post a pot completely in this glaze next weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/15/2020 at 5:44 PM, liambesaw said:

Nice! I've heard of some using sodium metabisulfite as well with good result (and slightly less dangerous

Honestly, it came down to availability for me. 

 

I have a screened in porch, I'm storing it there until summer time, then I will move totally outside. It's green muriatic acid too, the odor and fumes are quite a bit less.

 

But you're right, at my studio we used sodium metabisulfite, very good at etching. We do it for some raku ware, sort of an unknown technique in the raku field, but has given some great results. Only works well with really metal heavy glazes though, like 25-40% colorant, in the raku field, that is.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Brandon Franks said:

Honestly, it came down to availability for me. 

 

I have a screened in porch, I'm storing it there until summer time, then I will move totally outside. It's green muriatic acid too, the odor and fumes are quite a bit less.

 

But you're right, at my studio we used sodium metabisulfite, very good at etching. We do it for some raku ware, sort of an unknown technique in the raku field, but has given some great results. Only works well with really metal heavy glazes though, like 25-40% colorant, in the raku field, that is.

 

I don't have any issue with hcl, I have an acid cabinet with concentrated hcl, nno3, and glacial acetic acid, but I'd hate to see someone else hear you gave them a muriatic acid bath and not realize the ramifications.

My biggest issue with hcl is it's propensity to vaporize and destroy pretty much everything around it.  Keep away from metal and electronics that's for sure!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

I don't have any issue with hcl, I have an acid cabinet with concentrated hcl, nno3, and glacial acetic acid, but I'd hate to see someone else hear you gave them a muriatic acid bath and not realize the ramifications.

My biggest issue with hcl is it's propensity to vaporize and destroy pretty much everything around it.  Keep away from metal and electronics that's for sure!

 

I read that if you put it in a strong base bath, it neutralizes all acid.

 

TSP?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Brandon Franks said:

I believe that is what Andy (KaolinTigerStudios) does.

Oh yes, you definitely need to neutralize it afterwards.  Luckily with hcl this is extremely easy and non toxic to do.  Simply add sodium bicarbonate and it changes to sodium chloride, water and carbon dioxide, each of which is relatively.inert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

Oh yes, you definitely need to neutralize it afterwards.  Luckily with hcl this is extremely easy and non toxic to do.  Simply add sodium bicarbonate and it changes to sodium chloride, water and carbon dioxide, each of which is relatively.inert

You're the man, thanks for that!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, liambesaw said:

Oh yes, you definitely need to neutralize it afterwards.  Luckily with hcl this is extremely easy and non toxic to do.  Simply add sodium bicarbonate and it changes to sodium chloride, water and carbon dioxide, each of which is relatively.inert

Do you know the percentage? I would assume its somewhere around 1lb of baking soda to 1 gal of water to get the best results, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Min said:

Oribe ware is sometimes soaked in vinegar to tone down the copper. I believe plain white vinegar is what Ian Childers uses on some of his crystalline pots. I could see it taking longer than a stronger acid though.

Used it before, takes ages and not as powerful. Also has a tendency to make things sticky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.