Amelia

I have a faucet mounted at 4’ on the wall just outside the studio door with a fiberglass stationary tub beneath it and a bucket beneath that instead of a drain. The tub is unmounted so it can be moved if it’s in the way, or in your case, to keep out of the weather. I don’t use the sink for slops so I didn’t put in more straining/filtering. My faucet is a recycled shower + faucet unit with a hand-held shower hose attached that I can use to fill buckets without having to lift them in and out of the tub. 

Oh good point @Mark C.! Definitely going to look into all options. 

@LeeUyou are very right. The frugal “I can make it work…!” part of my brain comes out sometimes…but yeah, a production studio needs water.

@Callie Beller Dieselit definitely feels like 6 in 1, half a dozen in the other…I am thinking the office area would be comfortably warm if the kiln were firing in the other room since I do like the idea of having it in the same room as the wheel. But I guess worst case…I choose a place now, and down the road could always decide to move it if it really is not working. It may be wise to get another heater in the office area anyways.

@Rae Reich ooooo interesting idea on the drywall- sounds like a big project…but it definitely may be worth considering! Esp for extra insulation. Also good point on heater dispersal.
And thanks! After 15 years dedicated to the craft I am really grateful to have an *above ground* and out of the house space that feels so promising!!!

@Mark C. thank you for the extra info on the lighting and the kiln- I’m liking that spot right inside the sliding door. And yes, although unfortunate, I think painting white will be very welcomed come February…
My work is wheel throwing/production now- not much surface design/hand building beyond handles on mugs and some other joining of parts. Small chance I may dabble with slipcasting in the future…but not for now.

I don’t know if they sell the same ones at the US Home Depot, but you can get warm and cool LED bulbs in Canada. We’ve been phasing out incandescent and compact flourescent bulbs for a few years now, and LED are definitely better than either of them. Look on the box for the Kelvin rating: 2500-3000K are the warm ones, 5000K are the cool/bright white ones. The 5000K ones are better for bright light tasks/overhead lighting, and the 2500K are nice evening lighting, or if you need a warmer cast to things. 

The work flow "loop" for clay in, clay out (plus clean vs messy) that Mark described is the way to go IMO.  Also, I would absolutely install water and a utility sink--why would you operate a studio w/out water & be lugging buckets if you don't have to and it's not a temporary situation??   How exciting --good for you!!

I can’t add much, as people’s suggestions have covered most of my thoughts. Keeping the pots in one flowing line from wet clay to glaze fired ware is the biggie, no backtracking around the studio. The closer wet clay is to the delivery door the better. I also have to wholeheartedly agree with LED lights. I wasn’t sure because I’m not fond of the color, but my partner likes it bright so I put a couple in our studio on “her side.”  They were so great I quickly put two more on “my side.”
They’re like shop lights, you can get them with a plug or to hard wire in. One mistake I made was buying “high bay” style lights, which are meant for a really high ceiling, unless it’s 20 or 30 feet high it’s like a spotlight. I traded it in for ones the same brightness but made for regular height ceiling.
Beautiful looking space! 

One other option instaen of sheet rock is what I covered my throwing room in was Laun panneling its super thin and lightweight. You can use small finish nails (air gun ) to tack it up. It comes in 4x8 sheets and paints  well and is very cheap tp but.. It fast and you could still have the lovely wood under if you ever want to peel it off. Its about 1/8 inch thick or so