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Smokey2

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Everything posted by Smokey2

  1. Bill's idea is the easiest and least expensive. I know someone who hangs a very big oversized galvanized tub over their kiln with a hole cut in for duct piping and a duct fan then vented it out through a wall. It worked really good
  2. You definitely want a digital pyrometer, without it chances of failure are imminent. It helps to think of yourself as a computerized kiln controller. Here what I used to do. Once the sitter dropped I would lift the hammer and push in the button then gently lower the hammer back down. My former ^8 kiln had settings of Low, Mid, High and Hi-Fire with Hi-Fire for ^6. Dial down the knob(s) to somewhere between Mid and High. I would babysit the kiln with a close eye on the pyrometer until the kiln reached the desired temp Now I would continually adjust the knobs higher or lower to closely stay at the needed temp for as long as needed. Keep detailed records of dial settings, time it took to reach a certain temp and anything else you think might be relevant. You would be surprised at what you may not think important today only to find it to become a valuable point of reference latter on in time. This will make it easier to replicate future firings Good Luck
  3. I mixed cornstarch into Amaco underglaze to make a thicker paste. Its getting close to 3 weeks and it's still good
  4. What size is your kiln? How soon did you turn the kiln to high? 7 hours for a kiln smaller than 3cuft only half full may be ok. A kiln bigger kiln heavily loaded may be to short Yes, by all means do. Years back when I was still using a sitter kiln I've seen times when the ^04 sitter cone was straight and the ^04 witness cone was almost touching the shelf. It can't hurt, but lets say if the pots fired to the equivalent to ^06 you should be ok to just go ahead and glaze them. Just remember that the pots will soak up fluid faster so if you are dipping your pots into glaze you may need to dip them for a shorter time. I don't brush so I can't speak to that.
  5. I have two Bailey's Pro X. A few years ago I inherited a Shimpo VL-Whisper. Then last year some I knew wanted to start throwing so I lent her the Whisper with the understanding that she can keep it as long as she is still throwing or decides to buy her own. We both like the Bailey's better Back in January one of my Bailey's started ticking when the wheel was in motion. I called Bailey and he asked me to make sure the bolts holding the motor were tight, they were and he promptly sent me a new motor and a return ticket for the old motor. If I where to buy another wheel, it would be a Bailey
  6. Just pulled the trigger on a Olympic SQ169HE with a Genesis controller Learning something new is always a good thing
  7. I use large cones, not the self supporting ones and use just one large cone pack set per firing in my L&L E-28. It costs me 75¢ per firing so based on 40 firing it cost me $30 last year. Cheap insurance since it saved one firing last year. I bisque to 1969° and my 05 cone was barely bent. In this firing I had a clay that has pinhole problems with certain glazes. If I had glazed these pots it would have been a total loss. Digital controllers are great but they are not fool proof or perfect. "Trust But Verify" So much for asking about a Skutt GlazeTech
  8. Impressive, $350 on cones would be about 480 firings in a year. Last year I completed about 40, I was hoping more for this year but pandemics happens when you least expect it. I find I can spot problems with using cones before it shows up in the next glaze firing ====== Anyone here own a GlazeTech? If so, can I PM you and ask a few questions?
  9. FWIW, Years back when I first started I installed a thermocouple on my sitter kiln. Days later I noticed that when I took a reading that the temperature inside the kiln had a reading that was higher than the room temperature, even when it has been off for over a week. I decided at that time not to really concern myself with the shown temperature except to use it as a guide for each firing. When I acquired a new kiln with a controller and I turned it on for the first time I noticed the same thing, a higher temp in the kiln than the room temp, I figured it was the TC offset. I adjusted my firings to what worked the best with my glazes using the readings as a guide and not to be relied on as the actual internal temps. My belief has always been that consistency was upmost important and the temp shown on the screen was only a guide. I've kept detailed records of every firing that I have completed which includes: Temps readings at 30 minute intervals on the sitter kiln Dial adjustments for slowing down parts of the firing on the sitter kiln to make it easier to duplicate future firings Witness cones in every firing A photo of the fired cones On the L&L I placed cones on every shelf until I had my firings dialed in Now I place just one set of cones in a different area of the kiln for each firing Detailed notes of each firing which includes success, failures and what to improve on. The readings and photo is stored in a spreadsheet for easy reference. The Genesis controller makes this easy to do
  10. That's distressing, that means my understanding of TC offset has been wrong for many years
  11. Good Info My L&L has an offset of 18° and I glaze fire to 2195°. If I do not add a protection tube to the GT should I program the kiln to fire to 2195° or 2213°?
  12. I'm considering purchasing a Skutt Glaze Tech Test Kiln (GT) to go with my L&L E28 with a Genesis controller. I mix my own glazes and have my firing schedules down pretty good with a slow cool down to 1400°. I would like to program the GT to fire glazes as close as possible to the L&L. The one thing I noticed is that the GT thermocouple isn't protected like the L&L's. What kind of difficulty might I be facing to acquire some consistency between the two kilns?
  13. The concept is similar to offset printing. Sounds like I need to give this a try, it does sound like a better way. Sounds like a plan to me I tried paper and tyvek on bisque and neither stayed put very well, even when damped with water. I bet it would be easier on leather head
  14. That's a good Idea. I did something like that this past summer by painting on a leaf then transferring the underglaze on to green clay then fired off the leaf. I got the idea from when our children were young, we used to do the same thing with leaves onto paper. I'm thinking the color I want on the bottom of the pot should be placed last on the paper @liambesaw are you screening onto paper, And then using the paper as a transfer? No, directly onto bisqued clay, easier to wash off that way if I didn't like the outcome. Did the edges bleed? Not when I placed the vinyl directly on the clay with the adhesive touching the clay did you place the vinyl on top or bottom of screen? Both ways, with the vinyl on top there was almost no underglaze left on top of the vinyl as opposed to having the screen on top where the underglaze stayed on the vinyl
  15. Just an update. Vinyl on screens worked ok but I wasn't happy that the edges weren't as well defined as I liked. I got better edges when I placed the vinyl directly onto the clay. The one problem with that was the vinyl wasn't one contiguous piece as there were many "orphans" that needed to be placed separately. It was an interesting exercise for the day
  16. @liambesaw Thanks, I didn't know about clayflicks I'll have to check them out tonight. As luck would have it I have 110 mesh on hand and I'm on my way to the studio to play with it
  17. With everything closed down I'm finding more time to experiment with things I never considered trying before. My latest idea is trying to use cut vinyl as a resist on the screens. I tried this in the past with success for printing on t-shirts I was wondering if anyone has experience with what would be the best mesh size for either brushing or airbrushing on underglazes All ideas would be helpful
  18. Take your favorite pizza crust recipe and swap out the water and add beer. Because of the extra yeast in the beer you may want to let the dough rise a little bigger/longer. I prefer a darker over a lighter beer. There's also sauteed garlic and onion in the dough and as you can see in the image I sprinkled sesame seeds on the dough. I missed spelled soppressata it like pepperoni only way way better.
  19. Last night's dinner: Beer Crust with with last season's home canned tomato sauce and sopressa
  20. To me that sounds like oiling your brakes because they squeak. You would have been better off just using a can of compressed air to blow out the switch. Listen to Bill's advice
  21. I'm in shape... round is a shape so I guess I'm in perfect shape. Seriously, I'm at 175lbs. Last year at this time I was at 225lbs. Where's the chocolate I need to get back into shape.
  22. Well... I guess needing a haircut means I still have some hair somewhere left to cut
  23. Not Babs but here is my Naan AKA Flat bread recipe 4 oz of buttermilk, you can substitute yogurt but you may need a little more 6 oz of AP flour 1/2 teaspoon of salt If I'm cooking this on an outside BBQ that's all I do, If I'm cooking indoors on an electric pancake griddle I'll add a teaspoon of baking power. It isn't necessary but nice I warm up the griddle or the grill then I add the ingredients and mix the dough until everything is combined and is still a little sticky. I cut the dough into quarters then I roll out each piece on some bench flour to about 1/8" thick. Sometimes the dough will want to shrink back so I'll go back and roll them out a second time. Heating up the cooking surfaces to rolling out the dough takes about the same length of time so this is quick. Once it puffs up a little and there are some small browned areas I flip and cook the second side and take it off the heat when it puffs up more.
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