Smokey2

.

One has to keep in mind that many part of L&L's manuals are sourced from multiple places such as Orton and Bartlett to name just two. Many of articles were written 10-20+ years ago by many different authors and is still valid today. The fact of what L&L packs into that 1" binder (it really should go into a 1-1/2" binder) is impressive. To go through the expense just to compile, print, sort, add tabs and insert into a binder all this information and supply it with each new kiln is a credit to them. But honestly, if you think about it, the cost of proofreading and rewriting that whole binder is impossible and never going to happen. IMO, a new single page can be inserted at the very front of the manual with a header in large bold type that reads: THE FIRST FIRING OF YOUR NEW KILN Your first test firing is done very slowly, about 16 to 19 hours total to minimize the inner and outer surface temperature differences in the kiln while it goes through its maiden firing. Also this will slowly steam off any moisture absorbed by the firebrick during construction, shipping, and storage. The test firing is done to cone 5 (about 2167°F) to vitrify the special coating on the inside on the firebrick and to allow an “aluminum oxide” coating to form on the element’s surfaces. The coating on the brick helps to reflect the heat radiated from the elements, strengthen the surface of the firebrick, and help prevent dusting in the kiln. The oxide layer on the elements helps to protect them from the many contaminants found in many materials fired in a kiln. This aluminum oxide layer will rejuvenate itself every time there is an oxygen rich firing to a high temperature. Going to cone 5 may also point out any problems with your electrical service - like low or incorrect voltage or wrong supply line wire size. The elements will also seat themselves in the ceramic holders - and any springiness you see when you first get your kiln will be alleviated. Notice, there is no mention of a controller.

Yeah I agree that the manual needs updating and proof reading, but L&L still has the best of all the kiln manuals out there. I've seen more than a few If you think about it, the kiln doesn't really care which controller or sitter is hanging its the side, its gonna need the same first firing (breaking in firing) no matter what is powering the elements.

The info about first firing is in L&L's manual, its just difficult to navigate. See PDF 1,2 & 3 Also I remember one of your posts that you mentioned that you can read the color of the pots during a firing to determine when the kiln has reached your desired temp. Use that experience and observe your firing and when it reached the right color write down the temp(s) you see on the screen. from there you can adjust your firing on the go by pressing the [ADJ] button. (See PDF 4). Then create a custom program to dial in your future firings based on your knowledge and observations. 1. First Firing.pdf 2. First Firing.pdf 3. First Firing.pdf 4. Adjustments.pdf

My instructions for the same kiln says to do a slow bisque firing to cone 5 (not 05) which should take 16 to 19 hours. Leave the cone offsets alone and adjust the temps and the holds to get where you need to be. My ^6 schedule seg ramp/h temp hold 1 250° 230° 20m 2 350° 1900° 3 108° 2180° 15m 4 9999 2080° 5m 5 9999 1900° 20m From my manual

Its way faster, I can easily wax 50 pots within an hour. If I choose to I can dip a pot in paraffin and in about a minute or two I can dip that same pot into a bucket of glaze. Can't do that with liquid resist. I do have some liquid resist that I use on occasion. This is the product I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0855LRHQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use an electric skillet and drag the bottom against the rim so the wax flows back into the pan. I'm wondering if I have the heat to high which is set @ 250°. Lower and the wax easily peeled off. Plus, since my bottoms are concave and when I thought the wax has set then flipped it over the wax ran down the sides. Luckily a heat gun burned the wax off. This should have been 160° Great Idea

I've always used paraffin wax and when I needed to buy more wax I decided to try soy. Soy wax feels greasy and I'm afraid I'm gonna cause fingerprints if I'm not careful. When I dip it takes way longer to harden and the wax seems to draw into the bisque and doesn't do as good a job resisting the glaze It seems to harden quicker when I brush it on. But all it takes is one drip when applying to mess things up. It also takes longer to brush on. Is it me? I hate this stuff. Did I got the wrong type? As far as I know soy wax is soy wax. (melting point 140° 160°)

I also have hard water, salt softened water and used distilled water. I don't see a bit of difference in my glazes. My thinking is if the water is drinkable its going to be fine

I pulled my stuff from my only consignment right after Easter. It was a local winery, always busy, food trucks every weekend, about a 10 minute drive from my home and sales were ok to mediocre. Owner was a nice enough guy, very friendly and all but hard to pin down to get paid. He wanted me to come on the first of each month to give me a check and it seemed that I always had to go back 2 or 3 times to get paid. Either he was out and his staff didn't know where he left the check or he was busy on the phone, always an excuse. Last time I asked him to just mail me a check and he said that I have to come here anyway to restock and that he preferred handing me payment in person. I said that it would be easier for me not to do consignment and only do wholesale and he can let me know when he needs restocking. We agreed not to continue and left on good terms with him saying that he would like me to return in the fall for his food, wine and craft show. I smiled and said "thanks, will do" but thinking to myself "not gonna happen" Life is to short to deal with headaches

I'm doing a outdoor show on 4/24. I'll let you know how goes. FWIW - I got my second dose of the covid-19 vaccine on 4/6 and I'll still be wearing a mask

I way simpler method would be to actually just type the colon " : Your Location"

I made foot ring bat a few years ago using MDF. The plate was thrown and finished at 12" while still green. Its nearly impossible to get the plate off the bat without deforming it. I then made a smaller second bat that would fit inside the plate's rim so I can turn over the plate with it still on the foot ring bat. Not any better, still way to fussy. I now flip the plate (when stiffened, but still green) onto the smaller bat and attach foot ring(s). Way, way faster and so much easier to deal with.

@Bill Kielb http://www.greatkilns.com/http-www-greatkilns-com-kiln-pottery-heat-treating-test-kilns-sq169he-html.html

I meant to, I wish I did. Life got in the way.

To me it looks like they came from a slip mold