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Selchie

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  1. I can empathize with arthritis, CactusPots. I warm my hands up under warm water before I even start, just to loosen up stiffness. I have only been throwing for a couple of years. I am finding my hands are better because of pottery - slowly strengthening them with throwing smaller vessels. It is handling the larger bags of clay and throwing larger vessels that is the issue. I couldn't work outside in the winter, regardless, living in an area of Canada that gets fairly cold. I don't want to derail the focus of this thread, but something really hit me and I have questions. Part of this thread that hit me was the mention of clay freezing. I get clay that says "Do not freeze" on it . Can clay be frozen? Is it affected by freezing? Can it be rehabilitated if there is a problem with freezing? I would love to be able to store my clay out in my garage that is unheated, but certainly don't now. Just curious.
  2. Thanks. I will have a bucket of water close at hand. I was waiting, with obvious bad results!
  3. How are you applying the sodium silicate....just thinking about the clean up. I have destroyed brushes. I know that this isn't the artistic part of the process, but my inefficient clean up makes me want to use it less. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't used it with slip, but have used it while throwing the pot and stretching it. I love the effect!
  4. Full disclosure: I haven't taught wheel throwing and I am only two years into learning to throw. I do, however, have a background and have taught in human movement sciences. Our eyes are the sensory system that we usually use dominantly, with our other senses as support. We have proproiceptors in our muscles, joints and skin that tell us where our body is in space and where the parts of our body are in relation to one another, as well as giving us the feel of things that we are manipulating - hot? cold? soft? hard. The visual system will predominantly decide whether parts of the body are correct or not. We rarely, other than in wheel throwing, try to keep our hands still against an object that is spinning. If you really want to be the opposite of a good teacher (not recommended) - try having your students throw on a batt that has a spiral pattern on it, rather than no marks or circles - very weird, and probably annoying, if you are still learning. I would suggest that you use all the ideas noted above, from everyone else here - good positioning, anchoring the arms. Then, you could tell the students to close their eyes and feel if their hands are moving. I know this is probably unconventional, but it makes sense - you are removing the dominant sensory system rather than trying to override it. When I was learning, I worked at first centering with open eyes, so I could get the correct hand positions, then I practiced with my eyes closed. Then I worked to throw an entire cylinder with eyes closed. Just a thought.
  5. Chilly, Very interesting question, because after there is digging up the clay from the ground, there could be making a kiln and cutting down trees for wood firing. However, your clothing analogy ends up with you owning the sheep - a serious proposition. To answer your question - I think it would be fun to dig up clay and try to throw it after it has been cleaned, but not for all clay needs.
  6. I use both an excel spreadsheet and a photograph. Each piece has a number. The photograph has both the piece and the number (as noted by Liam as well as other information, such as clay, glaze, and finished size. That way, when I look at the picture, I don't have to go back and link it to the spreadsheet, although I can link it with the numbers, but I have enough information on the picture to be able to identify the piece.
  7. Hulk, Is that a self-cleaning wheel???? There would be a market for that - a Roomba for the studio, too. Sigh. I expect it is too good to be true, but maybe some day. I use a bluetooth speaker, too - listen to audio books, CBC (Canadian Broadcasting) podcasts, and ABC (Australian Broadcasting) podcasts.
  8. I use foam and wrap it around the piece, held in place with elastic bands, then hold it in place with the GG. I use the foam in place of a chuck for upside down vases and non-uniform shapes. It takes a bit of time to set it up, but it stops denting and I can trim at the stage of hardness that I like to use.
  9. Thanks. I will see if I can find the Standard 365 porcelain. Will try throwing what I have, too, because if it works, I get it right from PSH. I agree about the wax not working, unless I do the whole handle, I can't see how it would work, the more I think about it. I don't want to spend all sorts of time putting wax on handles, if I don't have to do so. I had one handle crack right in the middle. Really frustrating after working with stoneware. I will try putting them in a wet box and see if that will help.
  10. Thanks for the suggestion! Using a wet box would make me much happier than having to use wax resist.
  11. Picked up my Pottery Supply House #909 porcelain with Epsom salts today. According to the potter who works there, there is 2% Epsom salts added to the porcelain. It is designed to counteract the thixotropic properties of nepheline syenite and helps to make the porcelain more plastic. The salesperson uses #910, but she is a much better/more experienced potter than I am. She also suggested using wax, at the leather hard stage, around the connections between the handle and the body of the mug, to prevent cracking. I'll give that a try - and open to any other suggestions on that score, as well. Thanks for all of your input!
  12. Ugh. I think I would have stopped at doorstops (sunny side up egg shaped) and never have made it to spoon rests and small bowls.
  13. My attempts with porcelain have been limited, but good to know that some clays might be somewhat less difficult than others for throwing. My throwing is improving, so I'm ready to try porcelain again. Cream cheese, I think I can handle. Hot Velveeta - can't even imagine! My issues before with porcelain were more with my skill (or lack of it) in drying handles; I think I needed to dry the clay more slowly and carefully than I had.
  14. Thanks for the ideas. If Epsom salts will hold the porcelain together and not flop as much, that would be helpful. I will be throwing with it. Good to know about possibly getting carbon trapping in reduction firing because I will have access to a reduction kiln, but infrequently. I will probably stick with stoneware for that kiln. I can do some testing with less important items in the reduction kiln and stick with oxidation for the pots that are more important. I'll let you know what I find out.
  15. I am working towards throwing more with porcelain, at cone 6, mostly in oxidation. The closest source of porcelain for me is Pottery Supply House in Ontario (www.psh.ca). There are two cone 6 porcelains: PSH 910 and PSH 909. When I read the descriptions, #910 says "A bright and white versatile porcelain for use at cone 6-8" and #909 says "Same recipe as 910 stabilized with Epsom salts." I am aware of Epsom salts being used in glazes, but don't know enough about clay, porcelain in particular, to know what the difference would be in the clay by the addition of Epsom salts. Would it be easier (more forgiving) for throwing, or would there be a difference in drying? Or are there other attributes of the clay that would be changed by the addition of Epsom salts? I will contact a salesperson at the company for input, but any help would be appreciated so I can be a bit more knowledgeable when I talk with someone at PSH.
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