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Everything posted by akilspots

  1. yeah luckily it will just be going in the garage so no issues with stairs or doorways. I've watched the unpacking video for the 2026 on l&l's site it looks like i'll definitely need to rent a pallet jack but not an engine hoist. clay-king has shipping costs included for freight with a lift gate and the ceramic shop it's 199 + 40 for the lift gate. any reason to believe this will end up way higher?
  2. Between the L&L eQ2827-3 and eFL2026 what are the advantages beyond ease of loading for the front-loader? The e28T-3 looks nice too but the limit of cone 8 at 240v single phase is less than ideal. Is it really worth the thousands of dollars price difference for the front-loader? What are the downsides of the front-loader vs the top-loader? Also looks like the lead time for the front loaders is 2x the time for the top loader. I can afford either but maybe the extra money is better spent elsewhere? I do make larger pots sometimes, over 22" in height sometimes so the smaller height kilns wont work for me.
  3. cutting cylinders in half really helped me with this when i was starting out throwing. i would sit down with a dozen or so balls of clay and throw a cylinder then cut it in half then throw the next one.
  4. Doyle Lane https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/29/arts/design/doyle-lane-ceramics.html
  5. application can be important also. it might be easier to get that effect with brushing vs dipping or spraying a glaze.
  6. ive bought a bunch of clay and supplies from laguna directly never had any problems to speak of.
  7. i've never really liked bisque chucks now i will just throw a quick chuck then torch it with one of those handheld bernzomatic torches till it's stiff enough to hold whatever bottle i'm trimming.
  8. a good respirator for sure. i like a toilet brush for stirring buckets of glaze and a handheld immersion blender for mixing test batches. you'll want a scale that can measure 0.01 grams. definitely some sieves i have a small 80 mesh test sieve and some large 80, 100, 120 mesh ones whatever plastic containers/buckets make sense for the amount of glaze and work you make. I've stored glazes in all kinds of things take out containers, buckets, old plastic bottles. depends on how much glaze and how im using it. if you are going the completely self taught route some good books on glazes and glaze chemistry i like: the complete guide to mid-range glazes by john britt mastering cone 6 glazes by john hesselberth and ron roy stoneware glazes a systematic approach by ian currie and val cushing's handbook though i will say i was lucky the community studio i worked out of in nyc had a 4 week glaze making class that really helped me understand enough of the science behind glazes and making glazes that i felt much more comfortable testing glaze recipes.
  9. have you tried the trick where you lay a piece of paper on the rim of the pot then cut and lift it off the bat? the paper creates a seal that helps it not warp
  10. how many pots before you move from casual potter?
  11. http://www.archiebrayclay.com/ceramic-materials-workshop-starter-kit/ this looks like a nice little starter kit if you just want to start exploring making your own glazes.
  12. I've been doing some wood ash + clay + feldspar + frit biaxials lately. they have neen helpful when trying to discover new glazes.
  13. i've experimented with some crater glazes. i've never had to do any kind of special firing for them. just the like medium speed cone 6 electric firing has always worked for me. this is pinnell crater with some amount of light rutile as a colorant. 60 neph sye 20 strontium carb 1 lithium carb 10 ball clay 9 silica 2.5 silicone carbide (600 mesh) (this is the magic ingredient to getting a crater glaze)
  14. i take a lot of pictures greenware, bisque, glazed, fired. but i also keep a notebook that details how i've glazed things. i'll make a small drawing of the pot and then list what glaze is on the inside and whats on the outside. i'll note if it's over a slip or a wash. if there are layered glazes and in what order. if it's been dipped or sprayed or brushed on. what the thickness was like. etc. i do this as im glazing.
  15. he says they are pyromax elements in the comments.... has some other reduction in electric kiln videos also...this one use a saggar with charcoal
  16. really interesting...but i don't think any us kil manufacturers make a kiln like this? is it less wear on the elements to be in reduction only for a part of the firing?
  17. for a first round of testing you could make grids like this for each clay body and glaze then fire them. they wont give you an idea of how they move on a vertical surface you'll have to do another round of testing on vertical tiles once you identify some glazes that you like from the grid.
  18. any tips on reusing old clay bags. i've run out of ideas but still have dozens of old ones.
  19. I switched to doing all of my throwing at home in my apartment when the lock down started first in brooklyn and now in los angeles. I use a 3 bucket system (plus a bowl that i keep my water/slip in when throwing). 1) I have a 5 gal bucket that i dump my throwing water/slip into when it starts becoming more slip/clay than water. 2) Every few days when this settles I pour it off into a smaller 2 gal bucket. 3) When that settles I pour the water either back into the throwing bowl or into a 1 gal container and the rest back into the big bucket. I do have a studio i that i take my work to to be fired. i will take the big bucket every couple of weeks and dry my reclaim out there on some plaster and pick it up in a few days after it's dried out some. you could easily make them yourself at home. i just happened to keep mine there. somethings that have helped are putting as little clay/slip into the bowl of water when throwing. ill pile it up on the side and put the really wet stuff into the big bucket and the kinda wet stuff on to a small piece of plaster i made to dry out a bit then it just gets wedged into some clay for throwing again.
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