[Oxide washes on top of glazes! Oh my!]

Someone more experienced than me should answer this -- but I think the gerstley gives it a nice smooth melt so that the surface texture is not rough.

[Reclaim Tray / Pottery Plaster or Plaster of Paris?]

I would like to make a "reclaim bat", i.e. a tray on which I can lay wet clay/slip so that the water absorbs out of it for eventual re-use.  Should I use pottery plaster or plaster of paris?  And why?

[Oxide washes on top of glazes! Oh my!]

weight

[Oxide washes on top of glazes! Oh my!]

"In-glaze".  That stumped me.  Thankful for Wikipedia.  Here it is for all of my fellow dummies:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-glaze_decoration 

[Oxide washes on top of glazes! Oh my!]

16 hours ago, oldlady said:

since you posted this for potters new to the process and english is an imprecise language, may i point out that the oxides are used on top BEFORE the glaze is fired.   believe me, we have had some questions over the years that indicate a complete lack of knowledge of any language.

Good point Oldlady.  Effective communication is HARD!

[Oxide washes on top of glazes! Oh my!]

I post this as sort of a "public service" to other pottery semi-newbies like myself.  I somehow never got the message that you can easily paint oxide (and mason stain) washes on top of glazes for a lot of added color or design.  The videos below brought this to my attention and I am really excited about the results.  It has opened up some new avenues for me.  I defer to Richard McColl for a full description but it could not be easier:

Just add some oxides (or mason stains), a little water, and maybe some gerstley borate as a flux -- and apply ON TOP of your glaze for great color and effects.  Goes on great with a brush.  Make it the consistency of ink.  Hard to screw up.

Some examples are at the bottom and here are the videos:

 

 

 

[Argh!! Giffin grip gripe, anyone else have issues?]

On 5/28/2020 at 12:08 PM, Pres said:

I have been using a GG since they first came out years ago. I had at that time been doing all of the other options, centering on wheel head, wet thrown chucks, bisque thrown chucks, hump chucks for bowls, bowl chucks. All that said, when it came to large platters, or chalices, or really tall narrow vases, pitchers with pulled and uneven tops, or some other pieces, these options were often frustrating or inadequate. Along came the GG, and I first relearned how to trim, how to place the arms for best trimming, when to use just the pads on the bottom or use arms or use the reversed pads for large diameters. Then I started using plumbing parts to create chucks for things like chalice stems, or trimming honey jar lids or other pieces. Go back to not using the GG, NEVER! Do I still center by hand, on occasion, but compare the time for 50 mug trims by hand centering and by using a GG. The experienced GG user will beat the centering by hand easily, and the result is the same.

IMHO

 

best,

Pres

Pres -- could you post a pic of those "plumbing parts"?  I LOVE my Giffen Grip!  Only problem is trimming the foot on -- for instance -- a tall narrow necked bottle.  The head of the piece (pointing downward and touching the wheel) moves off center.  I try to resolve this problem by using clay lugs around the head to secure it or by letting the head rest on (and pushed slightly into) a thin layer of clay.  But all these methods leave a bit to be desired.  Seems to me that what is needed is a GG accessory that mounts in the center, is shaped like a cone, and extends upward to a point so that the mouth of the bottle fits over it and holds it secure.