Fusionous
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Posts posted by Fusionous
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7 hours ago, Jeff Longtin said:
To expand on Kswans point: my guess is that you took three round tubes and set them on a table and draped the clay slab over them? I would suggest you make three clay tubes the same diamter as the tubes you started with and fire the slab on them. Where the slab touches the clay tubes will need to remain unglazed, and the tubes would need to be kiln washed but this would give you the support you're missing.
I would close off the ends of the clay tubes to prevent them from collapsing as well.
1 side glazed and 1 side unglazed?
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8 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:
Kiln setters, pin setters or stilts are these thingy’s. This is an image of a commercially made 3 point setter, but they can come in different arrangements, like a long bar that has numerous points along its length. That’s what Pres was talking about with a bar setter. You can also make them very simply yourself with some Kanthal wire and a handful of clay. They’re used to place pieces on that are glazed all over, usually at low fire temperatures. The commercial ones come in 2 temperature ratings, one for low fire and one for mid fire. The wire in the low fire ones will bend if fired too hot, so if you’re buying them, make sure you have the right ones. If you’re making them, you have to use Kanthal, not Nicrhome wire.
Yes i will be trying out this method. Probably 2 points per valley to support. thank you!
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Just now, Mark C. said:
Make it out of stainless steel-easy and it will not break
Sadly client said stainless steel does not fit the restaurant theme...
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7 minutes ago, Babs said:
Matt?, shiny ?, satin oatmeal?
What is that glaze
Its a matte glaze. Meant to be a taco holder able to hold 3 orders on 1 side and 2 orders when flipped around...
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1 hour ago, Babs said:
Orders for unknown forms need to be avoided imo.
Wondering why the need to be glazed underneath.
I'd be checking low fired glazes as if you dont have time to redesign, you're risking complete failure to continue with C6.
Supported with wrong height due to unk own shrinkage may well mean the ends move out, in . Hard to know, eh?
Not worth the angst and time you're wasting on this.
Good luck.
Ok thanks, will definitely try to find replacements or alternatives...
Client wants to use it as a taco holder and chose this matte glaze i have.
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7 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:
Is there room in your situation to allow for negotiation for more time on this deadline? If you’re dealing with a client, this could be your best option for delivering the quality of work you want to present. Clay is notoriously temperamental, and explaining that you think your client deserves the best possible work you can offer and that you’ll settle for nothing less for them may be a possibility. If this isn’t a culturally acceptable practice, feel free to disregard.
If what I’m reading is correct: you have more versions of this sculpture that have not been glaze fired yet, and you want to be able to prevent similar warping in the next ones. If that assumption is the correct one, I’d put a pin setter of some kind underneath the sculpture at the points where you know it will sag so that it’s supported. The small pinpoints that are left from the setter can be buffed out easily. If you don’t have a suitable pin setter, you can make one out of wads of clay and lengths of Kanthal wire (the same as your kiln elements).
If I don’t have my assumptions correct and you need to try and repair this exact piece and you cannot obtain more time, the solution is maybe a bit more risky. You have to not only push the end pieces down, but the middle dips in the piece also have to be raised from the surface. In addition to what Pres recommended about weighing down the end pieces with setters in a re-fire, you also need to build supports to re-elevate the middle parts. This may result in the piece sitting the way you want it to, but the piece may have more irregularities in it.
7 hours ago, Min said:+1
Fill the gap under the middle 2 downward dips then the ends won't be pulled up.
I have a cookie with holes which i can place pins in, so i will need to support the 2 valleys correct?
Are setters kiln props?
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8 hours ago, Pres said:
The only solution I would have is to use 3 point pin setters upside down on the piece, then put a kiln post on top of that to force the piece down. This will leave setter marks, that can be ground and then polished out. Tough situation given your time frame. Firing on the side does not seem to be an option and it will probably not change the warping problem.
Good Luck... Really!
best,
Pres
Haven't tried this yet, i have 2 more spares which i can experiment. Will update again with pins supporting the 2 valleys. Thank you so much!
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8 hours ago, Pres said:
The only solution I would have is to use 3 point pin setters upside down on the piece, then put a kiln post on top of that to force the piece down. This will leave setter marks, that can be ground and then polished out. Tough situation given your time frame. Firing on the side does not seem to be an option and it will probably not change the warping problem.
Good Luck... Really!
best,
Pres
I tried firing on the side, it warps and slants inwards instead, top narrow and bottom stays wide
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8 minutes ago, KachemakKaren said:
I have a thought...
If your design structure holds its shape through a bisque firing, what about trying a low fire glaze instead of cone 6? I have fired many sculptural pieces (which don't need to be fully vitrified) made of cone 6 clay to bisque temperature and finished with various paints and waxes rather than glaze. I'm wondering if low firing might work for you.
The client chose this glaze which is a cone 6 glaze... i could recalculate and test for lower temp but i just dont have time though...
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It is glazed on both sides, placed as shown in the picture into the kiln. After firing, both sides warped and lifted up and sagged in the middle, causing the glazed part to touch the kiln shelf
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I am glaze firing, is there anyway i can put something on top of it to prevent it from warping?
It is glazed on both side except the straight edge its supposed to be standing on somehow sagged down the middle.
What is iot?
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Hello all,
I slab rolled this sculpture with stoneware PB103 and it warped during cone 6 glaze firing. I have made the rest of the batch and remaking them is not an option as i have a deadline in 1 weeks time.
How do i prevent this from warping at the sides? Both sides should be flat and touching the surface.
How to prevent this from warping when glaze firing?
in Studio Operations and Making Work
Posted
Thank you Min, Callie for your suggestion! I'm cautiously optimistic as the 2nd try worked! Here's the picture. Fired with pin setters beneath the 2 dips plus the sides!