Crooked Lawyer Potter

I used a syringe and scale. I'm getting used to the idea that it CAN be less than 1.0 since as I just read SGis a measure of "relative density" and if the "solute" i.e the material floats in the solution it means it is less than 1.0 and if it sinks in the solution it is greater than 1.0 I guess the tiny platelets of clay are less dense than water and thats why they stay suspended (i.e. float) in the liquid. But I will wait to hear from someone who actually knows what they are talking about.

Reading Vince's article suggests to me that SG less than 1.0 is NOT possible since the hydrometers he mentions all have scales that start at 1.0. Still hoping someone can answer this question authoritatively -- is it possible to get SG less than 1.0?

Never thought too much about it, but I I always assumed that one would never get a specific gravity reading that was less than 1.0 since the water was "the base" and any particulates would be added to its weight. But my recent ball clay terra sig is showing me a SG of 0.87 Is that possible? Or have I mis-read my results? If correct, is this because the very small clay particles (1) displace water and (2) weigh less than H2O?

Dont think I'm gonna try to make any FC, but this idea about the sawdust sure sounds interesting! Thanks.

Does anyone know the ratio of water to dry powdered ferric chloride to get a 40% solution?

I pop it in and out as needed for just that reason!

I'm gonna have to try to remember that piece of advice. I intuitively resist wiggling because I unconsciously think of gluing things where a wiggle is not desirable.

Here you go Oldlady. Follow this link: https://hcbailey-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/p/rick/EkxCuy9MoolOlbANUFJUU1sBpzHGhGuXVX6zfJIesQxL2g?e=2JUuGz

Pres -- you know I was having problems with my handles popping loose when drying so I tried some new methods including using magic water infused slip and vinegar infused slip. Neither worked for me as well as just plain watery slip. Funny how these things work for some and not others. Old Lady -- I will try to remember to make a short video. (Always wanted to be a movie star someday.)

In the hope that someone else may benefit from this: Not sure where I saw this idea but it has helped me a lot in putting handles on cups. (I dont "pull handles", I make them out of a small coil). It lets me concentrate on the attachment without having to worry about holding the cup and it gives me a firm foundation on to which I press the handle connections. I threw and bisqued the bullet shape with a hole at the bottom into which a rod goes. The other end of the rod is stuck into a hole drilled into the table edge. Put a sock over it for softness. The cup to be "handled" goes over the bullet and is held conveniently in place while I attach the handle.

My scrap bucket is smelly. Slightly sewer'y smell. I think I understand that it will not affect the clay's performance -- but is there a way to cure or prevent the smell?

Thanks to you all. And oldlady -- I will keep a sharp eye out for wasps!

OOOps. Here is the photo

Guidance please. The picture below is of a honey pot glazed with a dark red glaze on light colored B Mix clay. I find the rim distractingly white and would prefer it to be a darker color so as to contrast less with the body. But of course it is the rim where the lid fits so it can not be glazed. How can I color it with something that wont melt and stick to the lid? Will a pure oxide wash be OK? An underglaze?

I fire my electric kiln (a Skutt 822-3) to cones 06 and 6. My last set of elements lasted only about 100 firings, even though I did a "break-in" firing with an empty kiln as suggested when they were replaced. I suspect that I have "bad habits" that shorten the elements life-span. For instance, I lack patience and often remove plugs at <1000 and open the lid at <500 F. Is that bad? I also "candle" a lot, using the kiln to hurry along not quite dry pieces, often pre-heating for anywhere from 2 to 12 hours before beginning the firing. Anyone have a take on what to do -- and not do -- in order to extend the lives of elements?

Thank you all. The pins do push in to release the two halves although its not easy to do. Ive also learned that it doesnt hurt to wash them out well. Its working now and in a zip lock bag to protect. dont know what i would do without my potter friends here. (Yall know anything about small engine repai?)

It came with my Speedball Big Boss Pottery wheel. I see no markings on the pedal itself.

I keep having problems with the pedal for my wheel. I'm on my 3rd pedal now since they dont last very long before becoming hard to turn off. Perhaps because my studio is very dusty and dirty and they get "clogged"? Beats me. And I cant figure out how to open them up to examine for the problem. There seems to be no way to open other than 2 pivoting small screws on each side upon which the pedal hinges, but they do not seem to be removable. Can anyone enlighten me about how to open these things? Or why they go bad? Or how to fix or avoid? It will always go fast, but hard or impossible to stop completely. I have to STOMP on it!

Wonderful explanation. Now if I can only remember it tomorrow when I'm stirring that damn stoney matte glaze.

A related question: Does one say that the SG is 1.46 or .46 or 46?

As far as i have been able to discern, the importance of a glaze's specific gravity is limited to the issue of how well, and/or, in what manner, the glaze clings to the cup; i.e. is it thick or thin, runny or stiff, etc. Not to denigrate the importance of that, but is there any other reason to be concerned over, or to adjust a glaze's SG?

Missy i too am experimenting with this. Try 2 parts oxide and 1 part gertsley borate. Mixed with enough water (5-10 parts?) to make it the consistency of ink. ( i suspect you will get better advice but if not .... )

Is it tall things you are having problems with? Or everything? I used to have problems with bottles but have figured it out now. Do you have problems with cups also?