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About ThruTraffic

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Pottery, Metal Art, Welding

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  1. Two questions: I'm assuming a failed throw after sodium silicate application equals lost clay (trash). True? How does one remove sodium silicate that's dried from a bat )(plastic or other)?
  2. Yep. Spread the load. Loading heavy in none specific spot in any vehicle can make vehicle handling dangerous; for you and for us. Story from my youth; I worked for a feed store driving a truck with a 40' van behind it delivering feed, fertilizer, etc. The store owner told the crew to load 10 tons of basic slag in a stack in the middle of the van, between the axle and the king pin. As I pulled out of the parking lot into the street the bottom of the van broke out, dumped the entire load and all the bags burst. 10 tons of shovel work ensued.
  3. What an argument how much water can be! Every instructor I had had a different take and every potter seems to vary too. I finally simplified it into water weakens the clay so why it falls over I used to much and should get another ball. That’s it, that’s the rule. I’ve been throwing on and off over 10 years. I still can’t get it centered to where a foot looks like a perfect circle. I do it well enough now and came to the conclusion I just don’t care that much. It’s my art and my style and if I’m ok with it then I’m a happy camper. I give 95 percent of it away anyway. I’m like Johnny Pottery Seed. he he he
  4. What a difference there is between working in an air conditioned space and one without it. All the classes I took and my studio in my last house had A/C. All that is behind me and I'm now working in a 2500sf metal building with 20' ceilings with no A/C in North Carolina. This is a whole new experience and somewhat of a challenge. Throwing isn't affected that much except for I have to watch drying times since a pot off the wheel can be almost kiln ready dry by nightfall if thrown in the morning; finding leather hard is a check it check it check it task. Wedging is even a challenge. As new clay is exposed while spiraling it looses its moisture fairly fast so I can't wedge too long or the clay really firms up fast. I decided to start trying my hand yesterday with hand building. I tried some kurinuki type carving and that's not bad if you keep at it till finished; don't let it sit there too long though and keep a spray bottle of water close. Coiling is a whole different story. That's a constant misting process and I can't extrude a bunch of strips at a time; I can only extrude ONE at a time. If I do two the second will be too dry before I can get back to it; it dries that fast. Again, the spray bottle needs to be close! I tried extruding several, misting and covering with wax paper and that kind of worked. I'll try extruding them into a sealable container next time and see how that works. Anyone else work in an A/C less environment? Tips and tricks you can share? (Winter will probably be another topic. )
  5. Guess I should add I'm looking at this from a drip application. Seems there is more to the technique that just that. :-) This type of application.
  6. Has anyone tried the Dendritic Mocha Diffusion technique with just an oxide/water solution instead of an acid/color mix recipe? Yes, I'm looking for an easier, softer way and will get around to a test tile soon but curious now. :-)
  7. Thanks for the tip. I deal with Clay King so was using their terminology. http://www.clay-king.com/pottery_wheels/hump_molds.html Why would they be called 'slump' molds? Slumping is a term indicative of a negative, a fall, slouching, etc. The definition of hump would be more appropriate for these types of molds (something that's a positive aspect 'above' a surface, etc.).
  8. Looking to build spheres; different sizes, ~4" to 8" to which I'll add the top leaves and ribs. I'm looking for a least cost, least time expenditure way to acquire something like this to use as a drape mold.
  9. I don't do anything in production. I do this because I like doing it. Total poppy heads? Maybe 10 or 15. If they sold I might make some more but I'll probably get distracted by something else by then. :-) I'd use them as drape molds and the interior surface of a poppy head is no concern. Drying while on the mold would be short term as I'll need to connect the two halves, add the leaves and the ribs so they all shrink together at the same rate. Would PAM cook off in the kiln? I could throw some and bisque them I guess.
  10. Here's the link to the metal half domes. https://www.steelsupplylp.com/ornamental-iron/store/balls-spheres/hemispheres I'm off to Walmart to see if they have toy balls of different sizes I can use. Where's Toys R Us when you need them? :-)
  11. I'm looking for half dome hump molds to make poppy heads. I'm looking for a least cost, least time expenditure way to acquire them. I've found a steel company that stamps them in different sizes and they're cheaper than any other supplier of that shape in any other material. I have a feeling metal might not be the best material as it may be sticky enough to cause shrinkage and removal problems. But, I don't know this to be a fact so have any of you used molds made of steel? If so are there tips and tricks to molding clay against metal? Are lubricants required, etc.?
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