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ThruTraffic

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About ThruTraffic

  • Birthday 08/27/1952

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Pottery, Metal Art, Welding

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  1. Background: I've done Obvara with the traditional flour/sugar/yeast mash before. Recently I heard of a potter who was using whiskey mash for some unique results. That's all the detail I received so I thought I'd give it a try so I ordered a whisky mash kit off Amazon and yesterday I read the directions to find out that to mix it the way a distiller might basically takes kitchen equipment and cooking processes. I don't have that available in my RV. :-) I have seen videos of the traditional mash with an addition of a can or two of beer but I don't see any significant (if at all) difference in the results. Question: Has anyone used whiskey mash for obvara and can you tell me how you prepared the mash?
  2. No idea. I just found the photo exhibited the coarseness I'm interested in. Chawan tea bowls and kurinuki objects are my general target though; some sculpture ideas too (Michikawa/ Matsuzaki type objects.
  3. Only interested in texture. How do I get clay like this without shipping it from Japan (in particular the top left and bottom right)? Are these clay bodies something I can create with Laguna or Highwater clays just by adding grog? Is grog the only conclusion or are other chemicals/materials required. If grog is the answer what type/mesh is best and what percentage is required?
  4. I’ve done Obvara firings before. I’d like to hear from someone who may know how the number of pots dipped may or may not affect the brew and thus the results. For example: as the brew ages through repeated drippings could one expect to see wide result variations or not.
  5. - Given a 2.5 gallon Obvara flour/yeast brew: ----- How many pots can one dip into that brew before the brew becomes unusable? ----- What changes in results, if any, can one expect during the 'lifetime' of the above brew? (Or, will the age of the brew (during a firing period, not over time (days)) have any bearing on the results?) Basically the ask is: with the above brew can I dip 25 pots, 50 pots, larger numbers of pots and still get good results?
  6. Anyone have any experience using a terracotta clay body in saggar pit firing? I have some Standard 103 and 104 I'm going to use (06 to 2). The 103 fires the red I'm after. The 104 is supposedly 103 with grog. Not sure that's true as the 104 fires more brown (at cone 2). I'll be firing around 1550 to 1600 most likely). I'm going to do it anyway (test) but it will be about a month and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience on what results they got in the interim.
  7. Not sure what hair shirt means but it appeared the researcher did employ the scientific method in his work. Unfortunately that video seems to have been removed. I searched my watch history and I left a comment there and the video and my comment do not exist in my YT history. Bummer.
  8. I wanted to note the research video but so far unable to find it again; even in YT watch history. Will try again. I've seen the Pinnell/Villars video before. The last part of your response notes some good avenues for study; probably past my scientific/chemical knowledge base though. :-) Thank you.
  9. I've found very little on this topic (how to create the liquid based t-sig). If I understand correctly the Romans and Greeks didn't have/use a deflocculant in their recipes and were still able to achieve a gloss finish after firing. I found one YouTube video in english that was created by a researcher in Europe. I 'think' I understood he was able to recreate the Roman/Greek level of gloss without a deflocculant but at great effort by manually adding clay to water (hours of doing it slowly with his fingers). His fired results certainly did look as glossy as ancient terra sig pottery. Apparently (according to Wikipedia) a German chemist named Karl Fischer was able to recreate ancient terra sig but I'm unable to find any detailed evidence of how he achieved it. So, who know how to create terra sigillata (the liquid mixture, not the pottery) the Roman way?
  10. Agree 100%! Credit card transaction fees are charged to the seller and should be paid for by the seller. If you're operating a business you should have enough business education to know about COGS (Cost Of Goods Sold). CC fees should be part of those calculations and NOT a method of punishing a certain section of your customer base for using a service YOU are providing. If you don't want to pay CC fees then don't take credit cards. Nuff said.
  11. I got my question answered by Mikkel deMib Svendsen on YouTube. He uses an ~40% solution and gets some nice results.
  12. Oh! I didn't think of that. ;-) ============ If you're new to the thread I've asked: Ferric Chloride; Dilute or Not? Is 53% satisfactory for pit firing?
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