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Everything posted by ThruTraffic

  1. I've got a bucket of a white powder and WW-3102 is written on the bucket. Came for a lot of studio stuff I bought around 2008 and I've never known what it is. I can't find any combination of that via Google that helps. I have a suspicion WW may be Wonder White but I'm not seeing a Wonder White 3102 anywhere. Before I start testing to narrow it down I'm asking if anyone recognizes the product number.
  2. Just did my first firing as well. One of my experiments was to run the temp to 925c just to see effects of higher temp. Every pot done at 925c came out very dark. This isn’t an absolute answer but something to consider as a cause.
  3. Just finished my first Obvara Raku firing. Pots are cooled and look pretty good for a first timer. Now what. Is there a finishing process of some kind. I’m afraid to try any kind of rub on or abrasive finish material as this really isn’t a melted on process. How about a fixitif? Anyone have any guidance?
  4. I’m betting you are right. I tried to find out on Google but couldn’t find B-Mix specifications that went that deep. Searching Google for “what mesh grog for raku” the prime hit is 20 mesh. Couldn’t find that locally so went with 35. I’m going to cut back from 20%, my gut is telling me that’s just too much. Will try 10% and 35 mesh and see what happens. Thanks for the responses Min!
  5. I haven’t, even though I do have some. I just got started with Raku so wanted to do all my learning curve stuff with some reclaim I have which is a scrap mix of B-mix 5 w/wo grog, some Buncombe and other ‘whites’. There’s not a lot of b w/grog in it. So far what I’ve used without adding grog has done well with few cracks; only one explosion so far.
  6. Thanks Min. Here's how I do it: - roll out five pounds of clay - spread a layer of grog (Kyanite 35 mesh) - roll that up, slice and slam wedge - repeat until all the grog has been added - spiral wedge, then to the wheel One thing that makes me think 20% (1lb grog to 5lb clay) is too much is B-Mix 5 with grog from the store doesn't' look at all like my B-Mix with 20% grog.
  7. Rebuilding an old kiln. Some of them have stripped threads which I can have chased but thought I'd see if I can find some first. If you haven't seen the part that's ok.
  8. Anyone ever found and purchased a burner part like this. (Olympic isn't an acceptable answer.) It's called an "orifice connector" (sometimes called a "brass spud"). An orifice screws into the small end, the shutter travels the long male threads and the other end connects to the gas supply. I've got some queries in to a couple of burner manufacturers but haven't heard back yet. Curious if anyone else has ever bought and replaced these. If so please provide details on getting them.
  9. How much grog is best added to B-Mix for use in Raku. Answer = what percentage, by weight, is an appropriate amount? 10%, 20%, 35%, 50%, ????????? ============================== 99% of Google hits are about adding amounts to raw materials to make a clay body. I put all the values I found into my black box and the result was 20% to the question above. I think 20% is too much but I don't know. I do know it took a heck of a lot of wedging to get a pound of grog into 5 pounds of clay and by appearance and wedging behavior it seems like its way too much.
  10. I saw an archived thread about ring tighteners breaking. I just bought an old Olympic kiln and all the clamps are toast and two of them popped off the ring. Spot welds are good enough for this type of device I guess since breakage doesn’t appear to be very common but most folks don’t have access to a spot welder or to an even better solution; a TIG welder (I’m now happier than ever to have spent some time in welding school ). So mine will be repaired with a Miller TIG machine. And, I’m not going to use the ones that popped off and am going to pop all the rest off and replace them. One doesn’t have to order special screw clamps either. Look closely and you can see that the part welded on there is nothing more that a big ring clamp cut in half. You can find an example of what you need on the ends of car water hoses, except you’ll need some larger. A 3” or larger hose clamp is likely best. Amazon has them for around a buck a piece. Get stainless steel. And if you don’t know how to TIG I’ll bet there’s a trade school near you and I’ll also bet the ceramics and welding instructors know each other. (Heck, my welding prof was a potter.) (You could also MIG tack weld them fairly easily. Stick would work but you’ll need a pro for that thin of a steel.)
  11. Finished! Finally. I was fairly accurate on ~750 lbs. Here’s a pic of the pile (not shown is the 100 or more I threw in between wedgings.
  12. Awesome. Thank you!! Was just there reading about borax frit. :-)
  13. I bought a lot of pottery studio equipment and supplies several years ago and there are four buckets of white, powdered material/chemicals in them and nothing written on the buckets and no labels. I don’t have a mass spectrometer or the “mix your own” experience to identify them and I hate to toss a couple hundred pounds of materials. Any (reasonable) suggestions on how one might identify them? Would an experienced glaze maker be able to make reasonable guesses or outright know or quickly test them?
  14. Olympic replied and they do still sell the LT-3 Kiln Sitter option; for $600. A new LT-3 can be had for less than $200 and I'm guessing a actuated valve is probably less than $50. Each of those prices are retail which means Olympic can get them both for probably less than $100. Hefty markup. I got my answer to the original question. Thanks folks.
  15. An LT-3 is a couple hundred bucks. The high limit controller is over $1000. I have an old Amaco test kiln with an LT-3 and it’s been working cutting power on and up to cone 10 for probably 30 years. I opened up my LT-3 and saw how silly simple it will be to make it work for gas shutoff when the cone triggers. All I’ll need is a gas valve with an actuator that keeps the flow open until it’s power supply drops. Olympic just sees more profit in the $1000 controller is the only reason they stopped installing the LT-3 I’ll bet. Buyer beware.
  16. I used their contact form. No response yet. If none tomorrow, Monday, I’ll call them. I stay away from the phone as much as possible. I also found another Olympic vendor that alludes to the kiln sitter option but they’re closed till tomorrow.
  17. Does anyone know where on might purchase the Kill Sitter kit for gas kilns? This Kiln Sitter is 120v electrical outlet powered and has a relay that cycles a gas shutoff valve once max temp is reached. Talking to Clay-Kin and Olympic and it appears that is no longer an option for their kilns (even thought all their product catalog photos show their Torchbearer kilns with a Kiln Sitter installed).
  18. I'm sure some of the potters near me do have them. I'm hesitant to ask them (mainly because I haven't met them yet (moved here not long ago) and my thought would be none would want to provide this service or I (we'd) have heard of it before. I would imagine most would not for exactly the same reasons you mention in your second paragraph. That must be one rich pottter to be able to afford basically equipment for a studio per clay body. One will be stretching it for me. I've got pretty high water pressure to clean one out with.
  19. Yep, just looked at YouTube. I'm slam wedging to a softer/smoother point where I can spiral it.
  20. I haven't heard that term before. I'll have to investigate. I do slam big hunks of clay a lot when reclaiming; i take a big hunk and wire it off putting a sheen of water between each slice cut it up so the previous cut grains are different and then slamming it to press it all together. Once I get it to the state I can spiral wedge it I take it from there. Is what I'm doing at first "slam wedging"?
  21. Hmmmmm, I wonder if Medicare would cover it. :-) Call it a rehabilitation device? Seriously though; good point.
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