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JoshEdgarStudios

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About JoshEdgarStudios

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    http://Www.joshedgarstudios.weebly.com

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  • Location
    Austin, Texas

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  1. I was actually looking into their grad-school program recently. Good idea!
  2. Please delete or move if this is the wrong section. I searched and couldn't find a similar post. I recently moved to Austin, Texas and am looking for a local (or semi-local) wood or salt kiln that is communal. 90% of my work in college was woodfired using the college wood kiln, and now that I'm graduated I find myself in Austin with no idea how to continue atmospheric firings. I can't build a kiln in the back yard as I'm renting, so I'm looking for any community-accessible kilns I can fire in. Obviously, willing to trade labor and shifts for kiln space. I hope there is something available because I love the community aspect of firing with wood, and I want to continue my journey in that direction.
  3. Has anyone tried to add grolleg to Little Loafers or Standard 240? I can't find any examples of someone doing that. I'm just trying to find a white ^6 stoneware that I can add a lot of grolleg to for texture.
  4. Thank you for your responses. I think I'm just gonna have to wedge in the grolleg by hand, as suggested, although I think I'll adopt the cut and slam method so I can make large batches after testing percentages. I had bilateral De Quervain surgery on my wrists last year, and regular wedging kills me. Thanks again!
  5. The 'S' cracks weren't my main concern, as I've altered my drying process to avoid them. The cracks were just the reason for trying other commercial clay bodies and not being able to find one with the grolleg texture I was achieving with the mixed clay from the department. I graduated in December, so I'm working on my own now and need a clay body with a lot of grog. That' why I was wondering about using sculpture clay for my kurinuki pieces.
  6. Hello! I have been having trouble tracking down a suitable clay body for my kurinuki pieces. I had issues with 'S' cracks using the stoneware provided by the ceramic department, and I switched to HELIOS porcelain for a brief stint, but the lack of grog didn't appeal to me (I'm obsessed with texture). I mostly wish to do atmospheric firings, although I'm stuck with electric for the near future until I can track down a wood kiln near Austin. My main question is, would a sculpture clay body be suitable for carving to make my chawans, yunomis, etc? I'm thinking that with the higher grolleg content, I'll have less cracking issues, as well as added texture to the surfaces. I don't know of anyone that uses sculpture clay for tableware, though. I tried Standard 710 w/grog, hoping that the added grog would rough up the surface, but it was negligible. I do heavy carving on my kurinuki pieces, and I really want that rough texture showing through the final piece. Here are examples of my texture I'm chasing.
  7. Some really good information here. Thank you all who've replied. Very helpful and enlightening.
  8. bciskepottery, thank you for the information. I was looking through the other related treads, but didn't find what I was looking for. I believe I will just try out the standard 266 and see how it goes.
  9. My main concern is the long term effects of using stuff with manganese. Also, once fired, is there any hazards to holding/using the piece? Anybody know any good stains that can achieve the dark brown color of Standard 266? I don't have the ability of mixing my own materials at the moment, so I'd prefer something ready to use.
  10. Hello, I've been trying to figure out what route to go in regards to having dark brown to black clay to work with. I'm aware of the manganese toxicity, but I'm not that well versed in what to use that contains it. I initially wanted to use Standard 266, but it was suggested to me to just use mason stains to get the dark color. I would prefer the method with the least effort-to-toxicity. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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