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1515art

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  1. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Soldner vs. Thomas Stuart Professional Electric Wheel 1HP vs. Shimpo VL Whisper   
    I have two TS wheels a 1/3 hp and the other TS is the 1 hp and I like them both very much my local dealer sent me the 1/3 by accident first and I decided to keep it. the 1 hp wheel is obviously much more powerful but the 1/3 will handle 25 pounds of clay although it will slow some centering large amounts, I like them both but if I had to make a choice and was keeping only one  it would be the 1 hp. 
    I just gave an old Shempo RK2 wheel I bought back in the late 1970’s to a friends son who was learning to throw that still worked perfect after 50 years in the studio that’s the type wheel I learned to throw on and there’s still a lot of them in classrooms everywhere.
  2. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Hulk in Soldner vs. Thomas Stuart Professional Electric Wheel 1HP vs. Shimpo VL Whisper   
    I have two TS wheels a 1/3 hp and the other TS is the 1 hp and I like them both very much my local dealer sent me the 1/3 by accident first and I decided to keep it. the 1 hp wheel is obviously much more powerful but the 1/3 will handle 25 pounds of clay although it will slow some centering large amounts, I like them both but if I had to make a choice and was keeping only one  it would be the 1 hp. 
    I just gave an old Shempo RK2 wheel I bought back in the late 1970’s to a friends son who was learning to throw that still worked perfect after 50 years in the studio that’s the type wheel I learned to throw on and there’s still a lot of them in classrooms everywhere.
  3. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Rae Reich in Soldner vs. Thomas Stuart Professional Electric Wheel 1HP vs. Shimpo VL Whisper   
    I have two TS wheels a 1/3 hp and the other TS is the 1 hp and I like them both very much my local dealer sent me the 1/3 by accident first and I decided to keep it. the 1 hp wheel is obviously much more powerful but the 1/3 will handle 25 pounds of clay although it will slow some centering large amounts, I like them both but if I had to make a choice and was keeping only one  it would be the 1 hp. 
    I just gave an old Shempo RK2 wheel I bought back in the late 1970’s to a friends son who was learning to throw that still worked perfect after 50 years in the studio that’s the type wheel I learned to throw on and there’s still a lot of them in classrooms everywhere.
  4. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Luitreth in Gas burner question   
    The cylinder valve is on/off I don’t believe you have any reasonable control over the flow, the regulator is what you should be using to control the rate of rise in temperature, if you are using a Venturi type of burner the adjustment for air control is at the burner some burners may also have a shutoff valve at the burner and this can also be adjusted to control and balance the kiln the last control you have would be the damper this is used to control pressure inside the kiln as well as the atmosphere.
  5. Like
    1515art got a reaction from JeffK in Liquid latex resist   
    Jeff, for detailed work I’ve watched the decorators in the factories in China  using a latex resist I’m not sure if it was water or ammonia base or if it would make a difference duplicating detailed blue and white traditional designs. They made it look easy although I’m sure it’ll take practice brushing on green tinted latex over transfer design and then immediately tracing the transfer design with a sharp bamboo stylus through the latex removing a fine line on the still wet resist. Repeating this process small area by small area until the entire piece is covered in the latex with as fine a line cut as needed over the complete design using the stylus. After the latex dries completely they brush on oxides, peal away the latex and spray on clear glaze single fire I think. it’s a nice effect and when they do it produces clean sharp cobalt blue designs. Having not tried this it may not work as well on bisque ware, watching them work they cut the wet latex quickly and easily and the lines remained clean I’m not sure of the mix they used for the oxides. I have some photographs of them working I’d post but don’t have them handy at the moment.
  6. Like
    1515art got a reaction from JeffK in Liquid latex resist   
    For the bottoms of my pots I’ve quit waxing and just wipe the bottom with a big tan utility sponge after I glaze holding my pot in one hand and the sponge in the other twisting my pot back and forth on the sponge until I get a clean line, clearing as little or as much as I want. If my pressure is steady and even the line is also clean, sharp and even it takes only seconds to clean the foot and I’ve never had a problem with pieces sticking due to this technique alone. It will stain white clay foot with the colorants in the glaze so resist is better if that’s a problem. 
  7. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Hulk in Liquid latex resist   
    For the bottoms of my pots I’ve quit waxing and just wipe the bottom with a big tan utility sponge after I glaze holding my pot in one hand and the sponge in the other twisting my pot back and forth on the sponge until I get a clean line, clearing as little or as much as I want. If my pressure is steady and even the line is also clean, sharp and even it takes only seconds to clean the foot and I’ve never had a problem with pieces sticking due to this technique alone. It will stain white clay foot with the colorants in the glaze so resist is better if that’s a problem. 
  8. Like
    1515art reacted to oldlady in Liquid latex resist   
    the factory in china is most likely doing that kind of work on greenware.   the immediacy of the result  is why i really love doing things on greenware.  carving through a covering slip, scraping off a mistake, everything is easier with single firing.     i do not know why people are afraid of it.   if you can pick up a baby without breaking it, you probably can pick up greenware without crushing it in your big, clumsy hands.   wait.   who said you are clumsy?   do not believe it.   just look at whatever you are picking up and see where it is balanced.  remember gravity and strain, never use a handle, lift from below the heaviest part and remember it is only clay.
  9. Like
    1515art reacted to Mark C. in Liquid latex resist   
    If I want to peel it I use the latex.I only use this to peel  as it works so well for that.
    If I want to just resist I use my liquid water based wax resist and a brush -I do this on making ceramic fish with small model brushes
    Many of the new wax resists are junk now so find a good wax .
     
  10. Like
    1515art reacted to GEP in What’s on your workbench?   
    As I mentioned in the Events section, I have a big show coming up soon. Lots of good stuff coming out of the kilns now.




  11. Like
    1515art reacted to GEP in What’s on your workbench?   
    I love dry cleaner plastic! As a potter I hardly ever set foot in a dry cleaners, but my NYC sister hooked me up with a large stash. 
  12. Like
    1515art reacted to CactusPots in Plaster mold making problems   
    I've been using Vaseline in turpentine for mold release.  Got the tip from a mold master.  Seems to be the ticket. 
  13. Like
    1515art reacted to Rae Reich in Re-glazing high-fired pieces   
    Also, do not get the piece to be refired wet!! Sometimes moisture gets into the body and comes out explosively when heated quickly, as one might do with a refire. If it has gotten wet, place in an oven at the lowest possible temperature for several hours, or heat your refiring kiln very slowly. 
  14. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Rae Reich in Re-glazing high-fired pieces   
    I’ve done it many times with mostly positive results, the difficulty is getting a sufficient enough layer of new glaze material to stick to the previously glazed vetrified piece. I’ve never used hair spray although have read it can help the glaze to adheare, if the piece is small enough I’ll put it in the microwave for a minute or two that will do 2 things , heat the surface a little and neutralize some of the surface oil from things like oil transferred from skin contact. Otherwise I’ll heat it with an electric heat gun, Then  work quickly while the piece is warm.  Use a loaded brush, a soft touch and try to avoid going over areas a second time as repeated brush strokes will begin to work against you. You will have to practice a little to get the feel, luckily if it fails to apply like you like it’s very easy to rinse off the newly applied glaze and start over.
  15. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Min in Re-glazing high-fired pieces   
    I’ve done it many times with mostly positive results, the difficulty is getting a sufficient enough layer of new glaze material to stick to the previously glazed vetrified piece. I’ve never used hair spray although have read it can help the glaze to adheare, if the piece is small enough I’ll put it in the microwave for a minute or two that will do 2 things , heat the surface a little and neutralize some of the surface oil from things like oil transferred from skin contact. Otherwise I’ll heat it with an electric heat gun, Then  work quickly while the piece is warm.  Use a loaded brush, a soft touch and try to avoid going over areas a second time as repeated brush strokes will begin to work against you. You will have to practice a little to get the feel, luckily if it fails to apply like you like it’s very easy to rinse off the newly applied glaze and start over.
  16. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Momo in Re-glazing high-fired pieces   
    I’ve done it many times with mostly positive results, the difficulty is getting a sufficient enough layer of new glaze material to stick to the previously glazed vetrified piece. I’ve never used hair spray although have read it can help the glaze to adheare, if the piece is small enough I’ll put it in the microwave for a minute or two that will do 2 things , heat the surface a little and neutralize some of the surface oil from things like oil transferred from skin contact. Otherwise I’ll heat it with an electric heat gun, Then  work quickly while the piece is warm.  Use a loaded brush, a soft touch and try to avoid going over areas a second time as repeated brush strokes will begin to work against you. You will have to practice a little to get the feel, luckily if it fails to apply like you like it’s very easy to rinse off the newly applied glaze and start over.
  17. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Rae Reich in Stool/chair Height?   
    The chairs do not have casters the legs have flat pads on the bottoms.
  18. Like
    1515art reacted to Pres in Stool/chair Height?   
    I think that a variable height stool really works best. My reasoning for this is for the many different positions you might find yourself in when throwing. If you throw off the hump, you may be more comfortable with a higher seat, but as the clay gets lower, you find you are bending over too much. Trimming may require different heights, I don't like to get my arms too far past perpendicular to the wheel at the level of the pot bottom. So think about the types of chairs that would give you multiple heights. One of my favorites is:
     

    This type of stool allows variable height, and the angle of the stool actually supports your body and pushes you slightly forward.
     
    best,
    Pres
  19. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Rae Reich in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    Specifically, I use an old camel,back bladder it has the bag (naturally), hose,  valve, a hook to hang  and a snip of the mouthpiece with a diagonal cutter makes the nozzle. Holds plenty of water and you have great control over the drip. If you have access to medical supplies an iv drip works too.
  20. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Rae Reich in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    I really like the idea of grinding wet to eliminate dust issues, I’ll have to pick up a suitable diamond abrasive wheel, I’ve glued wet sanding disks to old throwing bats but their useful life is short. I did lapidary work many years ago and we used a flat lap that didn’t seem much different than a wheel head with a 1” lip to dress the backside of polished stones a much more involved version of Hulks method. 
    Sometimes I’ll chuck a finished piece on my giffen grip and hang a bag of water over the wheel head to provide a steady drip of water then use a diamond burr while spinning the ceramic ware on the wheel. Not the easiest way to go about finishing the bottoms, but if I’m not in production mode I’ve saved a few glaze disasters and am able to produce very clean edges with glazes that like/need to run and have smoothed bottoms with it.
  21. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Hulk in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    Specifically, I use an old camel,back bladder it has the bag (naturally), hose,  valve, a hook to hang  and a snip of the mouthpiece with a diagonal cutter makes the nozzle. Holds plenty of water and you have great control over the drip. If you have access to medical supplies an iv drip works too.
  22. Like
    1515art got a reaction from Hulk in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    I really like the idea of grinding wet to eliminate dust issues, I’ll have to pick up a suitable diamond abrasive wheel, I’ve glued wet sanding disks to old throwing bats but their useful life is short. I did lapidary work many years ago and we used a flat lap that didn’t seem much different than a wheel head with a 1” lip to dress the backside of polished stones a much more involved version of Hulks method. 
    Sometimes I’ll chuck a finished piece on my giffen grip and hang a bag of water over the wheel head to provide a steady drip of water then use a diamond burr while spinning the ceramic ware on the wheel. Not the easiest way to go about finishing the bottoms, but if I’m not in production mode I’ve saved a few glaze disasters and am able to produce very clean edges with glazes that like/need to run and have smoothed bottoms with it.
  23. Like
    1515art reacted to Babs in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    Grinding is an option.There have been a few posts about what people use.
    Some crystal glazers gribd all the time.
    Diamond disc attached to wheel. Carboradum bitheads or stones.
    Eye protection and mask would be essential
  24. Like
    1515art reacted to Mark C. in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    Have you tried wire wheeling the bottoms-(bench grnder fited with a wire wheel.)works great on most stoneware
  25. Like
    1515art reacted to Hulk in Removal of rough iron pieces on stoneware fired BRT   
    Hi Alice,
    I've glued 6" diamond wheel to a bat (my least favorite bat, which can still be used for clay, flipped over...) for polishing feet - works great! I run the wheel at a moderate speed, wet. The sludge (wet dust) likely wouldn't change how my clay behaves - I'm cleaning up before and after anyway.
    A courser grit would probably be better; this was so inexpensive tho'
     

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