Harold Roberts

This is a clear glaze that I use, fairly simple and if you add 8% rutile it becomes a beautiful white gloss.
Oyster Gloss
EPK –--------------------- 6
Dolomite –------------- 12
Gerstley Borate ----- 23
Flint –-------------------- 27
Nephelene Syenite - 32
And another clear using less Gerstley Borate.
Gloss
EPK –----------------------- 6
Dolomite –-------------- 12
Gerstley Borate –----- 12
Flint –--------------------- 30
Nephelene Syenite -- 40

I used to use Frit 3134 as a substitute for Gerstley Borate back in the 80's when there was a Gerstley Borate shortage. I found it flocked my glazes the same way Gerstley Borate did. I concluded that there must be enough free Boron because of the low Silica and Alumina content in the formula that it remained soluble. Boron is a glass former. Anyone who has thrown Borax on a raku pot and found it created a beautiful glassy glaze has seen it in action. Overtime the glaze will desolve in water alone. I have a potter friend who used a beautiful clear glaze she was given by a well known ceramist that had way to much boron in it and overtime her glazes deteriorated.
To answer your question Frit 3134 is not a complete glaze. It is used as a flux and needs more silica otherwise the free Boron will soften the glaze. There are a lot of  great cone 6 clear glazes out there and davidh4976 glaze is probably a good one. Frit 3195 is much closer to a complete glaze.

I am firing at cone 6 in an electric kiln. I make my own clay for many reasons. Most of the clay bodies available have way to much manganese and therefore very dark. Manganese makes a very cold dark brown and is poisonous. I was looking for a warm rich orange brown look. For that I chose iron magnetite. Also I found that the commercial blends do not have good glaze fit for my glazes. I also raw glaze (no bisque) and need a very tight body without any coarse materials in it like grog or fireclay that would absorb excess water to rapidly. I say this to warn you about why my claybody is formulated the way it is but it is a good starting point and one can add grog or substitute fireclay for the #6 tile.
Cone 6 stoneware
#6 Tile ..................24 lbs
Ball clay .............. 24 lbs
Goldart clay ..... 20 lbs
Redart clay ,,,,,,,,, 8 lbs
Flint ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 12 lbs
Feldspar ............ 12 lbs
Iron magnetite ...120 grams

I am firing at cone 6 in an electric kiln. I make my own clay for many reasons. Most of the clay bodies available have way to much manganese and therefore very dark. Manganese makes a very cold dark brown and is poisonous. I was looking for a warm rich orange brown look. For that I chose iron magnetite. Also I found that the commercial blends do not have good glaze fit for my glazes. I also raw glaze (no bisque) and need a very tight body without any coarse materials in it like grog or fireclay that would absorb excess water to rapidly. I say this to warn you about why my claybody is formulated the way it is but it is a good starting point and one can add grog or substitute fireclay for the #6 tile.
Cone 6 stoneware
#6 Tile ..................24 lbs
Ball clay .............. 24 lbs
Goldart clay ..... 20 lbs
Redart clay ,,,,,,,,, 8 lbs
Flint ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 12 lbs
Feldspar ............ 12 lbs
Iron magnetite ...120 grams

I am firing at cone 6 in an electric kiln. I make my own clay for many reasons. Most of the clay bodies available have way to much manganese and therefore very dark. Manganese makes a very cold dark brown and is poisonous. I was looking for a warm rich orange brown look. For that I chose iron magnetite. Also I found that the commercial blends do not have good glaze fit for my glazes. I also raw glaze (no bisque) and need a very tight body without any coarse materials in it like grog or fireclay that would absorb excess water to rapidly. I say this to warn you about why my claybody is formulated the way it is but it is a good starting point and one can add grog or substitute fireclay for the #6 tile.
Cone 6 stoneware
#6 Tile ..................24 lbs
Ball clay .............. 24 lbs
Goldart clay ..... 20 lbs
Redart clay ,,,,,,,,, 8 lbs
Flint ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 12 lbs
Feldspar ............ 12 lbs
Iron magnetite ...120 grams

I am firing at cone 6 in an electric kiln. I make my own clay for many reasons. Most of the clay bodies available have way to much manganese and therefore very dark. Manganese makes a very cold dark brown and is poisonous. I was looking for a warm rich orange brown look. For that I chose iron magnetite. Also I found that the commercial blends do not have good glaze fit for my glazes. I also raw glaze (no bisque) and need a very tight body without any coarse materials in it like grog or fireclay that would absorb excess water to rapidly. I say this to warn you about why my claybody is formulated the way it is but it is a good starting point and one can add grog or substitute fireclay for the #6 tile.
Cone 6 stoneware
#6 Tile ..................24 lbs
Ball clay .............. 24 lbs
Goldart clay ..... 20 lbs
Redart clay ,,,,,,,,, 8 lbs
Flint ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 12 lbs
Feldspar ............ 12 lbs
Iron magnetite ...120 grams