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About Frankiegirl

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  1. First, I like the power of a 1ph wheel. The Axner wheel has issues with the splash pan cracking, plus they have these 2 holes in the bottom of them that I don't see the necessity of. I would choose the Pacifica GT800 over the Axner wheel. That said, I am a huge Bailey's fan. I think they will give you the biggest bang for your buck. The equipment is great, holds up over the long haul, and they really consider the person using it. If you can swing it, I'd get the Bailey Pro or Pro XL wheel. They have power and I love the solid splash pan design. I have 3 Bailey wheels and they are incredible! In 10 years, I've only had to replace the belts (which wear with normal use) and a rubber pad on a foot pedal. I make a lot of pots. I am not gentle. They also have superior customer service. Just a great company with great products. And no, I am not being paid to endorse them. Here is the ProXL: https://www.baileypottery.com/Bailey-Pottery/Product-Details/ BAILEY-PRO-XL-M600001 Right now they have free freight, free tools and a free counter with it too.
  2. I would not change out my clay/glazes on a kiln issue. As Neil said, you probably will not get that to cone 4 and it will really make the elements struggle and run longer than they should. If the cost is too much on the re-wire (I'm not sure how much you have invested in this endeavor or the condition/size/value of kiln), consider other options. You could sell the kiln and use the proceeds to get a 208v kiln. Another option is to keep this kiln for bisque and purchase a second kiln for glazing until you have the funds to convert the first kiln to 208V. Just a side note, I see this a lot with people new to kilns, you should have an idea of the electrical specs before making the investment. You should check the voltage and phase of the kiln and also the max firing temperature/cone. Switching a 240V or 208V (or vice versa) is easy, even if costly, but if your phase is incorrect, the problem is much bigger.
  3. Hi Linh, When you don't fire to temperature, the pots may show issues down the line, even if they look okay now. It may be just fine for decorative items, but if you are making dinnerware, this is not a good idea. Besides that, you should be able to get to temperature. The first thing I would check is that you have the correct voltage and phase. Look at the electrical specs on the side of the controller box. Is the kiln wired to run on 208 or 240 volts? If it is a 240v kiln running on a 208v service, you will not be able to get to temperature. The second thing I would do, if the voltage is correct, is to run a full power test to make sure all of the elements are working. Turn the kiln on high for 20 minutes and then check to see if all of the elements glow. If you see some are not running, then you may have burned out element(s). They would not glow and would most likely show signs of damage. If you see a section of the kiln is not working with no fault in the elements, it could be a simple matter of replacing a relay. This would be a good starting point on troubleshooting your issue.
  4. Thank you all again for your input! I am so lucky to be a part of this wonderful community!
  5. Hi! Looking to begin teaching wheel classes and shopping for wheels. I'd like to start with 4-6 wheels and I want them uniform, so used is not going tok really work. Keeping in my budget is important, but I also want decent wheels. I am between the clay boss, big boss and VL-Whisper. I have always used Bailey and Brent but they are out of my price range. Any instructors to weigh in would be appreciated.
  6. This is a great topic, and one I think lots of people can learn from. The easiest thing to do would be to stick with that one you liked. To go apart from the class, I would start with sourcing local clays first, as apposed to clays that are simply locally available. Some clay manufacturers/distributors can even give you 1lb. samples to test before you commit to a large order. If you are ordering large amounts, some manufacturers will even mix custom clays for you! Read the clay descriptions to help narrow your selections and make sure the clay is going to do what you need it to do and look the way you want it to look. Then, as Neil said, test them out. I also think clays with a narrower firing range work best and I think going to the top of the range yields the best results. So if it is a cone 8-10 clay, fire at cone 10 for best results.
  7. I would start with basics - checking the wiring. If you have a new kiln and the elements are getting power, it eliminates that as your cause, unless the elements are wired for a different voltage. Even a licensed electrician may not check that the voltage of the kiln is compatible with the service of the building. If you are not sure, you can get a multi-meter for under $10 to check.
  8. Frankiegirl

    Extruder dies

    What are they connected with? I need these in my life
  9. Great idea! But I bet this would only work with the powdered, not granular.
  10. Only going up 6" and the bailey already has cross braces. The bailey wheel with extenders I have doesn't use them and I have been using it for years. Very sturdy.
  11. Nice. Thanks! I saw the Pacifica extender is much cheaper. Anyone tried it on a bailey? My thinking is that for the short extensions, the inner tube dimension is really the only factor because frame shape would be irrelevant except if I needed the braces.
  12. I have that on my other wheel as well, just the shipping is the same cost as the legs so I was hoping to find alternatives.
  13. Yes it works at cone 6 just fine. I have used the granular. Very nice variations, distinct speckes.
  14. Are the Brent booties compatible on other wheels or does anyone have plans for DIY extensions? I need to outfit another wheel. It is a baileys
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