Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Once Fired Paperclay?


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 acg

acg

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 22 posts

Posted 30 March 2011 - 05:40 PM

Hi Paperclay guru's,

Have any of you had experience once firing your work, probably ^6 oxidation. Are there problems with the glaze on thin bone dry pieces distorting the work? I will be spraying or brushing the glazes. Will the clay absorb as much glaze as when it is bisqued first. Is there any size limitation with once firing? What about pieces blowing up? Is there more or less danger.

Thanks for you help!

acg

#2 MMB

MMB

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 123 posts
  • LocationHartwell, GA

Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:09 PM

I dont have to much info to offer but I hate to see posts with multiple views and no replies. So here we go. Hmm well Im still dabbling with paperclay. Although paperclay still has an amount of porosity to it due to the fibers space after burn out. I dont know if it would be the best choice for a fountain. Pieces only blow up because of the moisture left in clay if fired without drying properly. You would want to make sure it dries COMPLETELY! Some say that paperclay has the advantage of not exploding if someone leaves an air pocket etc because the fibers burn out early leaving space for moisture to escape as it turns to gas. I actually fired something the other day and forgot to put holes in alot of the pieces (multiple egg shapes) too my surprise none were lost. I cant say that my statement is hard evidence and I would never purposely make that mistake again.

Im not sure when it comes to your worry of "once firing." Many people fire glazed greenware. Size limitation? I would think if you have a kiln big enough for the piece there shouldnt be a problem.

#3 Mossyrock

Mossyrock

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 165 posts
  • LocationHigh Point, NC

Posted 31 March 2011 - 11:29 AM

A friend recently attended a Steven Hill workshop ..... he once-fires at Cone 6 oxidation. She said it was amazing.....he poured the glaze inside the piece and sprays the outside. Beautiful work. Here's a link of some workshop photos I found on the internet. Maybe you could find more regarding his work.

Brenda Moore
Mossy Rock Creations
High Point, NC

#4 anthonyfoo

anthonyfoo

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 02 April 2011 - 12:18 AM

Hi Paperclay guru's,

Have any of you had experience once firing your work, probably ^6 oxidation. Are there problems with the glaze on thin bone dry pieces distorting the work? I will be spraying or brushing the glazes. Will the clay absorb as much glaze as when it is bisqued first. Is there any size limitation with once firing? What about pieces blowing up? Is there more or less danger.

Thanks for you help!

acg


HI acg,

You can do a one fire with paper clay. I've taken my Aardvark Papel Cone 5 porcelain to a cone 5 fire without going thru bisque. There is no issue with a one fire. I tend to work without glazes so I did not use any with that test.

All the literature on paper clay (my primary info is from Graham Hay and Rosette Gault) indicates that you can glaze a raw paper clay piece. You paper clay piece should be bone dry and as such it will absorb the glaze very quickly. Just be sure not to over glaze it in one sitting. If you need to apply another coat of glaze, let the first layer dry completely. Thin bone dry paperclay will absorb water very quickly and become leather hard again, so several thin coats of glaze is better than one thick application.

Hope this helps,
Anthony

#5 Marcia Selsor

Marcia Selsor

    Professor Emerita, Montana State University-Billings

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,008 posts
  • Locationwhere Texas, Matamoros, Rio Grande and Gulf of Mexico come together.

Posted 02 April 2011 - 06:21 AM

I haven't once fired paper clay to cone six , but have been working with paper clay since 1993. The most important thing I can think of is to make sure the glaze has completely dried after you apply it. Sometimes my paper clay takes a while to dry. I also recommend setting large pieces on coils to allow moisture to escape in the kiln. trapped moisture sitting on a shelf can blow up.
The coils which I extrude thru a steel grid of 1/4 inch holes are preferable to firing on grog because they allow more air under the piece and help steam escape.
Marcia

#6 acg

acg

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 22 posts

Posted 02 April 2011 - 10:06 AM

Thanks, all for your input. Any other input is welcome. I'm not sure I am brave enough to try it. Maybe one piece in my small kiln/sitter kiln.

Acg

#7 minspargal

minspargal

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 90 posts
  • LocationPort Aransas, Tx

Posted 03 April 2011 - 08:01 AM

It is always a good idea to test before you glaze a whole load.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users