Biglou13 Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Mizusashi attempt, shigariki attempt. It fits a fist. (Small Asian fist). Not 8.5 glove size fist) Problem is it leaks. Like all my shigaraiki attempts, It will get refired. John baymore San says multiple firings may be necessay..... I can get this back in a train kiln, and/or wait for another anagama firing ? If I refire in gas redux will I lose flashing? ? What if I glaze interior before refire? ? What temp does does feldspar, granite, melt? ? Is parched earth appearance after bisque normal? ? How many days will does shigariki maker fire for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Yunomi attempt. Hotter part of kiln, I'm assuming... Still leaks..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Miller Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I've seen a few of treasured old wares that leak pretty bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Yunomi attempt. Hotter part of kiln, I'm assuming... Still leaks..... Drink faster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hmmm. Lots of questions. I am wiggling my toes in happiness over the texture you have there, first of all! DigitalFire says that soda spar melts around 1200 C (2192 F) and potash based feldspars melt around 1250 C (2282 F). Roughly. Heat work will be your friend getting this to maturity. My experience with clays that have inclusions like Helmer tells me that the parched earth look is normal. It's the finer stuff cracking around the hard bits. (Technical terms,those.) Re firing will change the flashing. How? The reduction firing cycle will determine that. It may enhance or burn out certain colours, it may burn out some or all of the carbon trapping, or it may bring some more in. Gail Nichols did a very pedantic amount of study on the effects different amounts of reduction at different points in the firing for soda. It's recorded visually in Soda, Clay and Fire, and she said at the workshop she gave a few years ago in Calgary she published it to save the rest of us a bunch of very boring work. Have a look at it if you can. While it isn't exactly same process, I believe the colour response of wood fire and soda to be very related. But I had my education looking at both processes right next to each other with a fair amount of crossover, so there's my bias. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I think you just need to get enough ash on the surface to seal up all the cracks. Should be a fun process watching it change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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