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Solutions For Flaky Kiln Wash

kiln wash kiln shelves

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#21 neilestrick

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 04:02 PM

You can put fresh wash into a glaze load without problems.


Neil Estrick
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#22 perkolator

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 05:07 PM

i agree that it sounds like your wash is simply applied too thick.

 

we also use a 50/50 epk/silica wash on our electric kiln shelves and don't really have any issues, the key is to keep up on good kiln wash maintenance/application.  we don't even use calcined material.  i've noticed the key is to not apply too thick in one layer and to make sure you rub off the flaky parts of the old layer with a rub brick before rewashing.  sure it's slightly more messy and time consuming to do this, but since this wash sticks "just enough" and yet easily comes off, it makes sense for us since the wash doesn't build up with repeated coats - which leaves a huge divot when a chunk comes off.  it also promotes our students good studio habits to clean and rewash the shelves every time they load/unload a kiln.



#23 stephsteph

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 01:11 AM

and the alumina is by far the most expensive ingredient these days!


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#24 TJR

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 04:19 PM

Norm;

As much as I love Bentonite,  [to keep glazes in suspension], I wouldn't be putting it into kiln wash.

There are two types of kiln wash;

For salt soda and wood;

Alumina Hydrate 50 %

Kaolin                 50%

 

For electric kilns and gas kilns you use the following;

Kaolin   50

Flint      50

 

Keep these shelves away from your salt kiln as Flint/silica is a glass former.

Alumina hydrate is expensive and not necessary for electric.

Why are you adding fritt to your kiln wash? It is also a glaze former, and also expensive and heavy in a solution.

You don't need to be deflocculating anything. This is kiln wash we're talking about here.

Keep it simple.

TJR.



#25 neilestrick

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 06:59 AM

I agree with justanassembler and Mark C.  -   Alumina Hydrate is Kiln Wash. I add just 5% to 10% kaolin or bentonite.

 

I also add Propylene Glycol to the water making application smoother and uniform, and I also stole Jeff Canpana's idea of using Darvan to make the kiln wash into a slip a couple of years ago - but you have to get used to the concept of kiln wash as a slip rather than a suspended glaze.

 

Silica does not belong in Kiln Wash, especially not 50%.  Silica is a glass-former. Glaze runs on a silica kiln wash provides all the flux needed to make your silica kiln wash into a glazze, leaving you using with a chisel and a hammer.

 

Some add 1% feldspar to keep kiln wash on the shelf, but this is more for ^10.  I add 1% Ferro Frit 3124 for ^6 kiln wash.

 

Dusting a shelf with extra alumina hydrate under the work of an amateur glazer can be a miracle.

 

That's some expensive kiln wash there. Silica can be used in kiln wash just fine. It is refractory, and far less expensive than alumina.


Neil Estrick
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L&L Kilns Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com

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#26 neilestrick

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 07:04 AM

Keep these shelves away from your salt kiln as Flint/silica is a glass former.

TJR.

 

Yes, silica is a glass former. But in a salt kiln, silica by itself will not flux out. It requires the presence of alumina and the resulting eutectic of silica/alumina/soda in order for any glass to form. So yes, you are correct that your kiln wash formula won't work in a salt kiln, but not because of the silica alone.


Neil Estrick
Kiln Repair Tech
L&L Kilns Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com

neil@neilestrickgallery.com






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