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Found 8 results

  1. Hi - I am new to firing my own kiln. I have an old manual Cress kiln that I have used 4 times now. I put kiln wash on my shelves each time and I after the last glaze I noticed that there are little dark flecks all over the shelves. Is this glaze that needs to be ground off? Or is this just something I put more kiln wash over? I appreciate your help! Thanks - Anita
  2. I have never had so much trouble with kiln shelves. I am wondering if I have done something wrong. I had all the shelves in my set to clean and apply kiln wash. It was daunting task with the pumice stone and chisel. So I used my orbital sander and it went so fast that I am wondering why I've never seen anyone suggest it. Then I put kiln wash on all of them. I thinned the wash (as I have learned that it must be as thin as half and half milk). Brushed it on in different directions to get a complete coverage. This has worked every other time I've done it - until now. After the 3rd coat, about half of the shelves had the wash crackle and fall off. I washed them clean and reapplied. This time fewer of them crackled. Cleaned them and re-applied. This time I'm down to 3 that crackled. Couldn't get 2 of these to hold so I cleaned them very well spraying them with water to make sure there was no dust on them, let them dry in the sun, and turned them over. When they were dry, one of them turned blotchy green - mold??? I applied kiln wash. It didn't want to stick to the green areas, but eventually I got 2 coats to stick. I plan to fire these last shelves in my next glaze kiln. This is so crazy. I've never had these problems before. Has anyone else experienced these problems? Any ideas what is happening here?
  3. Hello Everyone, well I have one particular kiln shelf where the kiln wash will not stick to it. The recipe I use is 2 EPK, 2 Flint, 1 Alumina hydrate. On my other shelves this recipe works fine except for this one. I have to rewash it every time because it flakes off. I have scrapped off all the remaining in between each wash and placed two layers on each time. Any suggestions on what might be causing this? Thank you Gavin www.finefieldpottery.com
  4. Unfortunately, I have some bad glaze drips. I have 3 coats of kiln wash on the shelves, but when I went to pop the glaze off with a cold chisel, part of the shelf came with it. I have a couple of gouges in the shelf now and still more glaze to get off somehow. Before I continue trying to remove the drips, I would like more advice. My drips are pretty thick, so grinding will take a long time...and I actually have a lot of drips on one shelf. (I have nearly a complete ring from a really bad run. Obviously, I shouldn't have applies a particular glaze over another.) Is there a special way to chip glaze off? I wonder if my kiln wash wasn't thick enough, even with 3 coats. Where I have dug into the shelf, so long as I am able to get all the glaze off, is it still safe to use the shelf? Does anyone have some advice or suggestions for saving the shelves? Thanks
  5. I'm new to firing in my own kiln, and have a brand-new Scutt. Up until now, all of my work has been fired in "community" kilns (community centers, schools, etc.), and I absolutely hate dealing with kiln flakes on my work. Now that I have my own kiln, I'm considering not even using kiln wash at all. My question is this: Do you think that kiln wash is entirely necessary? I will be controlling every aspect of what goes into my kiln, as well as firing, so I shouldn't have anything unexpected go into the kiln, and, for items I'm wary about, I'll likely fire them on stilts or on top of a "cookie". What do you think?
  6. I have gotten on this site several times and searched for this topic, but not found anything. I have recently become the owner of a Skutt Kilnmaster 822. I am excited to have a kiln but very green. I got a special deal in that the the kiln was ALMOST new and I got full warranty. The included shelves have kiln wash on them, but the person who used the kiln (supposedly only once) before I got it got a little glaze on one of the shelves and it looks like they possibly just put kiln wash over the glaze. I have some kiln wash that was given to me. I have a few questions regarding the shelves and kiln wash: 1. Do I need to try to remove the small amount of glaze on the shelf and, if so, do I use a sharp chisel or possibly a rotary tool? 2. Should I put on more kiln wash and if so, do I first somehow take off the kiln wash that is on the shelf or do I just put on another coat? 3. I got a couple of new shelves and put a couple of coats of kiln wash on them. I think maybe I did not get on enough. I have fired the kiln with the newly coated kiln wash. Is it ok to just add another coat before using it again?
  7. I have been working with clay for many years but only firing my own stuff for about 4 years. I have this recurring problem. The kiln wash flakes off after every firing - bisque or glaze. (firing bisque at 04 and glaze at 6 in my electric Vulcan kiln) I am constantly cleaning shelves and it seems to be getting worse the more I use these shelves. I have tried completely removing all the old wash and replaced it with new. I have tried simply removing the stuff that is the loosest and then washing over it and the surrounding areas. I've tried thick and thin applications. I am extremely careful with my shelves and do not allow any greasy or oily contamination. I am using kiln wash that has been mixed for some time (??? years???). I wouldn't think that's the problem, but maybe.... Anyone have some suggestions????
  8. Hi, this is my first post and I'm so glad to have found this forum! I have only a test kiln, so space is limited. I'm firing unglazed cone 6 porcelain pieces, all cylindrical and of similar size (each about 100 grams fired). I want to stack them directly on the kiln floor without the wares sticking to each other. Initial experiments with imperfect forms suggest that sticking will be a problem in the next iteration, when the forms will be more perfectly cylindrical and have greater surface contact areas. I had thought to use kiln wash on the wares themselves to prevent this, hoping to remove the wash with minimal effect to the finish of the pieces. I could just try this ... but I could also return the unopened bag of wash if, as I'm beginning to fear, the wash will adhere strongly to the wares... The pieces could be burnished or roughed going in, it's no great inconvenience either way. But power grinding post-vit would be over the top. Maybe some other substance would suit this purpose better? (This kiln wash is the standard 50:50 kaolin:silica combination.) Ideally, the wash would crack off like a husk, with no bonding interactions with the wares whatsoever. Just read about "shelf paper" for the first time today, and maybe some corrugated wrapping pattern with that stuff would work better? Or would it still bond?... (Today I read in a post on this forum that it's only used for glass, so probably bad idea? And then I read that you could use it but it's a particular health hazard?) Maybe the finish including bonded wash, with a quick sanding, would be acceptable. I could sort of stilt the pieces, placing little interstitial balls of clay -- pretty labour intensive loading, but that would reduce the contact area. But then sagging might be a problem there. Any suggestions will be savoured! Andrew
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