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Seedy Potter

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About Seedy Potter

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  • Birthday August 21
  1. Thanks, Mark. I am anxious to try out the new recipe. You've all been quite helpful.
  2. Yea, Mark.. .It's a commercial wash. I think I'm convinced (especially after read the Jeff Campana article - http://jeffcampana.com/self-leveling-kiln-wash/) that I definitely need to start mixing my own wash. I'm hoping I can get the ingredients locally. And the last two shelves were successful, I think because I watered the wash down to almost skimmed milk thickness. I'm wondering if that shelf that I had get moldy was one of the new ones I just bought. I'm thinking that I need to fire or at least do a thorough job of drying all shelves before I try to apply wash. I used to simply put them in a kiln firing as soon as I got them, but this one was one of 2 I recently bought and it's hard to know how it was stored before I got it.
  3. Gavin, did it help to grind down the shelf? I'm having some trouble too with one shelf. Wondering what worked for you.
  4. I have never had so much trouble with kiln shelves. I am wondering if I have done something wrong. I had all the shelves in my set to clean and apply kiln wash. It was daunting task with the pumice stone and chisel. So I used my orbital sander and it went so fast that I am wondering why I've never seen anyone suggest it. Then I put kiln wash on all of them. I thinned the wash (as I have learned that it must be as thin as half and half milk). Brushed it on in different directions to get a complete coverage. This has worked every other time I've done it - until now. After the 3rd coat, about half of the shelves had the wash crackle and fall off. I washed them clean and reapplied. This time fewer of them crackled. Cleaned them and re-applied. This time I'm down to 3 that crackled. Couldn't get 2 of these to hold so I cleaned them very well spraying them with water to make sure there was no dust on them, let them dry in the sun, and turned them over. When they were dry, one of them turned blotchy green - mold??? I applied kiln wash. It didn't want to stick to the green areas, but eventually I got 2 coats to stick. I plan to fire these last shelves in my next glaze kiln. This is so crazy. I've never had these problems before. Has anyone else experienced these problems? Any ideas what is happening here?
  5. I have been asked by a dear friend to make her funeral urn. I have searched here to find recommendations about how large to make it. I saw that one potter recommended 5# of clay, but that's not exactly what I need to know. What volume inside should I be trying to create? In other words... Does anyone know approximately, on average, what volume of ashes make up the remains?
  6. It's playground sand. I bought a bag of it at Lowes - very cheap, consistent sized particles and very clean.
  7. Everyone will be happy (I'm sure :-) ) to hear that the two large pieces I fired came out with no cracks. Yea! Used sand under each. None traveled to molten glaze. One piece was a 20" disc and the other was a platter -oval shaped- 24" x 20". After rolling each base on a flat ware board, I did not pick up either until they were bone dry. I did all my base clean up after bisque. Thanks for all your reassurances!
  8. Thanks, these are great suggestions. A couple of questions: I am concerned with the lage flat piece warping. It seems like it would take a lot of coil to make sure it doesn't. Do you create the coil support for every piece you do? It seems logical that using the same clay body would insure continuity of movement, but that's a lot of material to waste. Am I seeing this correctly? Sounds like the cookies solution is a reuseable solution, for a 20" disc that's still a lot of cookies.
  9. Thanks, bciskepottery. I appreciate your quick reply. I'll give it a try and hope for the best. This piece is a first of a kind for me and after a lot of experimentation, I really want this to go well. Grype: My pieces this time are about 20' round. I have never had a problem with plates that are under 12". There's always a first time, tho. I use medium fire stoneware.
  10. I am having trouble with successfully firing large flat pieces in a glaze kiln. When I bisque fire them, I put a little sand under them to reduce the friction on the shelf as they shrink and move during firing. This has been very successful. However, I am hesitant to put sand in a glaze kiln especially with a vent master drawing air downward. I am afraid that the sand will be drawn into molten glaze. My question is: is that a reasonable concern? If so, what would any of you suggest to use to keep large pieces from breaking apart at ^6. Might the problem be solved if I brought the kiln temp up much more slowly? What temp range is the most critical? Is it possible that all the moving sand will have "found a home" by the time the glaze is molten? This still feels if-y to me... I could use some sage advice!
  11. Thanks everyone! I knew there had to be solution/s to this problem that you would be able to help me out with. I am planning on getting the composition make up of the kiln wash I buy from our local distributor. I think it has alumina in it, but if it doesn't, I am planning on making my own and calcinating the kaolin. I will also completely clean my shelves and re-apply 2 - 3 very thin coats of wash. Thanks again for all your help!
  12. I have been working with clay for many years but only firing my own stuff for about 4 years. I have this recurring problem. The kiln wash flakes off after every firing - bisque or glaze. (firing bisque at 04 and glaze at 6 in my electric Vulcan kiln) I am constantly cleaning shelves and it seems to be getting worse the more I use these shelves. I have tried completely removing all the old wash and replaced it with new. I have tried simply removing the stuff that is the loosest and then washing over it and the surrounding areas. I've tried thick and thin applications. I am extremely careful with my shelves and do not allow any greasy or oily contamination. I am using kiln wash that has been mixed for some time (??? years???). I wouldn't think that's the problem, but maybe.... Anyone have some suggestions????
  13. 20X10! how wonderful! and a way to simply sweep or hose off the floor! Two great qualities in my estimation. I commend you for thinking about the flooring early in the process. At one of the studios where I worked there wasn't much forethought about that as a problem. It was a garage concrete floor and in the winter when the heat is on and the doors are closed, dust is a real issue. My present studio is in our basement. So ambient dust could be a problem for our home. It is 14'X12' and a very small space for wheel and slabroller, sheving, and workspace! But when I was doing the planning to put in the studio, I decided that a lineolum (pardon my spelling) was an imperative. Clay dust will fill every single pore in a concrete floor and work it's way back into the air when given a chance as you walk and work in the space . I know a lot of people seal their concrete - but it's still concrete. You'll find that dust in these pores simply cannot be mopped up and hosing makes dust into mud, as we know, which settles and fills pores and cracks even better (Sealing it might be important and a good idea too.) Because I can't possibly hose down the area, I simply "tacked" a large sheet of lineolum onto the floor - wall to wall. (You might be able to do a more permanent and seamless installation in your area. If you're planning on hosing, I'd advise you to make a seal at the wall so that water and mud don't collect there.) When I'm ready to clean, I simply move my worktable (which is on wheels), vacuum (I have a shopvac mounted on the studio wall), mop, and then put things back. I do a deep cleaning when I transistion from construction to working with bisque to glazing. Keeping my work in "modules" of tasks not only makes cleaning timely, in my small space it is difficult to have many tasks going on at once. I'm sure your situation is unique and different from mine, but I hope my opinion and experiences help.
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