RakuMan Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I just had a full kiln load of bisque Way over fire. It was suppose to fire to 06 but went to at least cone 8. I connected the wires wrong to the thurmo couple & everything came out burnt. ** Question. I know for raku, the clay needs to be open & UN vitrafied. Will it still be Ok to Raku without cracking? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Mike Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I'm not sure what burnt means. If you are using a clay formulated for raku, which is usually a low fire clay, and you reached cone 8 your pots should be slumped or puddled all over your kiln. I would think that you will have a lot more difficulty getting enough glaze on the pieces to form glass and getting the smoked black on the unglazed areas than problems with cracking the pots. It is possible to refire cone 10 electric glaze fired pots in a raku kiln to reduce them so I wouldn't think firing to raku temperatures with pots already fired way past the normal firing temperature for raku would cause that big a problem with cracking. I know people who bisque to 04 for raku and then fire the glaze to a slightly lower temperature and they come out even though the clay was vitrified in the bisque. Simplest way to tell is try to fire them and see what happens. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggielv Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Actually, good raku clay should be a high fire clay, cone 6 upward. It stays open becasue it does not vitrify. If you fired to cone 8, your clay is probabluy a cone 10 clay and, therefore, close to vitrification at cone 8. You may still be able to get some light carbon markings and reduction that could be very interesting and subtle. It would be interesting to try splashes of slip resist and heavily reduce in sawdust to see what happens. I am imagining lovely cloudy greys. If you do dercide to give it a try, let us know and post pictures. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I have refired a number of pieces that were made with raku clay. The trouble usually comes in the 650 to 900 degree F. range. you might give some thought to salt fuming or pit firing. Please let us know how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linnet Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 I'm very new to raku. I find raku clay very versitile and can fire high or low temps. I would still experiement with raku clay fired to cone 8, if no carbone trapping I would then glaze and fire again using say cone 10. Can someone tell me the best bisque temp to fire raku? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Hi Linnet, I bisque fire my Raku pieces to cone 06 - basically the same temp as the Raku final fire. Then glaze/tape/naked raku or whatever other decorating technique, and do the final Raku fire at around 1800 F for most pieces before reduction. Not sure if this temp applies to all Raku clays, but at least it seems to work well for the Raku clay I'm using. Best wishes! Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 I just had a full kiln load of bisque Way over fire. It was suppose to fire to 06 but went to at least cone 8. I connected the wires wrong to the thurmo couple & everything came out burnt. ** Question. I know for raku, the clay needs to be open & UN vitrafied. Will it still be Ok to Raku without cracking? Thanks, If you really did hit ^8 then the clay will be too vitrified to withstand the thermal shock of a raku firing and it will crack. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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