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About Carl

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  • Birthday April 12

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    Minnesota, USA
  1. Hi Linnet, I bisque fire my Raku pieces to cone 06 - basically the same temp as the Raku final fire. Then glaze/tape/naked raku or whatever other decorating technique, and do the final Raku fire at around 1800 F for most pieces before reduction. Not sure if this temp applies to all Raku clays, but at least it seems to work well for the Raku clay I'm using. Best wishes! Carl
  2. I roll my slabs directly on the cardboard tubes (without the newspaper), and yes, that makes them stick to the tube. But by putting my arm inside the tube and the gently bouncing the tube while it is held sideways, it stretches the clay enough that I can then slide the tube out of the cylinder of clay after standing it on end. This process has to be done before the clay sets up too much to stretch, of course. I never leave the clay on the tubes for long as it will shrink and then become too difficult to remove. It sounds like your student's project may be beyond help unless you can rehydrate the clay enough to allow it to stretch and be removed from the tubes. Best wishes!!!
  3. Hi Linnet! I've been making pottery for over 10 years, and teaching pottery part time for about 8 years, and it seems that no matter how much I learn, there is always more to try/do. And I agree, experimentation is great! It may not make you rich, but it certainly keeps things interesting, yes? :D

  4. One of the 'old codger' potters told me that he does the lemon test as Mike suggested in the previous post, but also pours vinegar into/onto the ware to check to see if anything leached out into the vinegar overnight. He also said to check the lemon itself to see if it showed any signs of discoloration due to leaching. Not sure if that is enough, but he seemed to think that was appropriate for items used for food.
  5. Hi Carl I have a lot to learn, always learning, experiementing, sometimes seems I experiment more than produce, but it is fun isn't it! looking forward to reading your posts

  6. Just as a follow up question to the suggestion to have your ware leach tested by a lab, does anyone have an idea (in general) about how much it costs to have that done? Was curious to know if it is generally in the $100's, $1,000's or even higher. Thanks!
  7. We have tried to offer the glazing classes at the Art Center where I teach part time, but it can be difficult to find the number of students needed to make the class a 'go'. I would guess that in the more populous areas that the glazing classes would find enough students. I seem to recall seeing them advertised occaisionally in other places... sometimes mixed in with other surface decorating techniques. Best wishes!
  8. I don't use templates, but from what I've seen, they were used as the final 'adjustment' after everything was already pulled to thickness and the walls just needing to be moved into their final alignment. Perhaps others use them differently...
  9. If there are no undercuts, petroleum jelly should work... at least it seemed to work well for making bronze casting molds from plaster. Normally one uses something with a slight inward slant to make releasing a bit easier.
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