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Everything posted by Linnet

  1. Linnet

    Clay pot drums

    hand formed clay pot drums
  2. hello Wayne, thanks for your contact. I've been making/selling udu drums mainly this year. Latest using Ferric Chloride and horse hair for decoration (naked Raku)I have a commission to do 2 gargoyles for rural building but can't seem to start. using different clay, so getting used to it. How about you?

  3. yes depending on the temp you fire to. I have fired to bisque in a wood fire kiln and 1300degC. I find clay bodies with iron in gives the best results, especially when the ash catches on the wear creating its own glaze. I personally like to use a clay body called RSF a good all rounder behaves well in salt firing. Can create wonderfull skin tones at high temps. Maybe start with a raku clay body if your not sure of temp.
  4. I use 100% bees wax only on burnished pieces. Ive been looking for a sealant that want dull burnished surface which i want have to re~apply often. concrete sealant sounds interesting and would possibly make the piece water proof. Krylon UV acrylic sealant sounds good if I can purchase it here. I have often seen people sraying after firing but could never find out what it was. Thank you
  5. hello Idaho Potter After reading your post I then read your 'about me" and thought we have similar interests as I consider myself a figurative sculptor with great interest in Raku firing, then when I attempted to see your gallery I noticed we have more in common, our birthday! looking forward to more of your posts.

  6. I am becoming increasingly interested in Raku firing/glazes. I have dabbled but not much success. most of my success is not glazed ~ naked raku ~ horse hair decorated. Recently used Ferric Chloride over horse hair after firing and have had some success. Would love to discuss with others their experiences especially using glazes an firing techniques. There is not much info on the net I would like to share with others if interested. see Ferric chloride over horse hair raku firing pics here
  7. Phill noticed you were looking for packaging.

    In Australia i find '3hfoam' excellent. You can line a box and scuplt the shape of your vessel so it want move in transit. Hope this helps. http://www.3hfoam.com.au/


  8. I have finally been shown a product that is excellent for packaging, freighting etc 3hfoam http://www.3hfoam.com.au/. you can carve it shape it line the box with it. Comes in various thicknesses.
  9. White raku clay horse hair and sugar carbon trap. Clay pot drum - udu

    © © Linnet 2011

  10. i agree with both Chris and Denise. I like to dry mine very slowly and if I notice parts drying earlier than others i wet them down again with spray bottle or other. be sure to use clay that shrinks at the same rate percentage wise for each section. You may need to do some shrink tests at bisqe and vitrification. but drying should be done evenly or you will have trouble.
  11. I have found with all tiles, if i score the back of them lightly then they can move without warping. if you look on store bought and industrial fired tiles their backs are not just flat. its like giving tiles legs to stand on and allows heat and air to circulate better around the tile in firing I hope this helps. when you said 'fire the whole thing at once" What did you mean exactly? I like to put sand underneath the tiles in the kiln. I place them in the kiln the way they will be arranged together on the kiln shelf which is covered lightly in sand.
  12. Yes I beleive in testing, experimenting and each time my new piece arrives from the kiln, I alway have a question 'What if..." then I re test and test again. so much so that 70% of my work is testing/test pieces. So it is nice to have everyones experience and input at hand here. Thank you for that.
  13. I would be interested in techniques for this process also. I have seen some amazing work with coloured glass melted in centre of dishes by placing various coloured glass onto the dish prior firing at cone 10. I wonder if the glass could be placed into the clay after making the objuect and allowing a certain amount of drying,especially a vertical piece?
  14. Personally speaking, I find new and old techniques very interested and I am willing to give it a go in my work. As long as I can say I made it myself. Using the extruder or slab roller and making multitues of molded pieces is industrial in my opinion but I am grateful to be able to use these impliments to produce my pieces. What I am very annoyed with is when a piece is designed by an individual then produced in a factory specilizing in manufacturing ceramics, then hung in a gallery (even slightly altered or surface treated) to be described as "made by the individual" I could just as well go to the store and by a fine china set and surface decorate the piece myself. I would never have enough courage to call it mine though.
  15. I'm very new to raku. I find raku clay very versitile and can fire high or low temps. I would still experiement with raku clay fired to cone 8, if no carbone trapping I would then glaze and fire again using say cone 10. Can someone tell me the best bisque temp to fire raku?
  16. experiemental ceramicist

  17. I would only make a tile from slab roller if the tile was irregular shape, which I have done. I find the plaster mold best even if the front of the tile is not textured, raised or recessed. only square sided. Also I find by scratching the base of the tile keeps it flat in the drying and firing process.
  18. I personally like the theory of "Sucker Factor" . I also think how photgenic your work is really matters. It can be fun to create, feel great, have a great story, be visually pleasing but unless it photographs well, it may just end up looking like a mud pile to someone who hasn't seen it in person.
  19. How large are your pieces? What type of filler are you speaking of? SAND? or are you looking for somthing that will burn out when fired?
  20. From the album: Clay pot drums

    © &copy 2005 Linnet

  21. From the album: Clay pot drums

    © &copy 2005 Linnet

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